How much water in PWC

[Tonyturbo]

Hi Guys,

New to all this and have a Polaris Pro 1200. How much water would you expect to be in the hull when just floating about in the water? I.E not in use etc.

Mine just seems to take in what I think is quite a bit were the impeller shaft comes in through the ski. When running the bildge kicks in and is constantly chucking it out the back.

Only been in the water for about an hour though in total since buying it.

It has had a complete rebuild could this have out to do with it?

Any feedback much appreciated.

Many thanks,

Tony.

[beerdart]

Welcome to the Hulk..

Water leaks are not good. You can try and trim off some of the rubber tube holding the seal carrier so the seals ride on a fresh spot on the drive shaft..Or replace the seal carrier. The manual is located in the tech section.

[xlint89]

Welcome to the Hulk Tony.

No water should be inside the ski when just floating.

Have you greased the through hull fitting? (driveshaft bearing)

[K447]

Welcome to the Hulk!

Click here for Polaris Service Manuals, and other useful info.

It sounds like the seals in your through-hull bearing are no longer sealing. You can replace the entire assembly, or have new seals and bearing installed in your existing housing.

The inner bearing should be replaced at the same time, as it is steel, and water leaking through the seals means the bearing inside there must also be wet, and it will rust. If that bearing fails and seizes while you are riding, it can tear the rubber 'hose' mount apart, and rapidly flood the hull with water.

Normally, you should have near zero rate of water leakage when just sitting in the water.

[faith&firepower]

I know my question isn't in regards to leak from the engine itself or parts to it, but more to the air vents close to the seat. 2001 Pro 1200.

I rolled off the ski, and while trying to get back on, I took on a bunch of water through the vents by the front seat latch. Is there any other way around it? Im a bigger guy and it took me a few attempts to get back on at first. Can the two vents be blocked off, or put something there to limit the water going into the hull? Thanks!

[04gtxsc]

Lose weight or get on from the back quicker. You might try jumping from another ski onto yours. May take some practice to get it right. Oh please take video if you give that option a try.

When i had my pro I grabbed the rear handle and pulled the back of the ski down and climbed on quickly. Although I do remember watching a couple of my sons larger friends trying to do that. Sorry no video.

[slx1200]

Lose weight or get on from the back quicker. You might try jumping from another ski onto yours. May take some practice to get it right. Oh please take video if you give that option a try.

When i had my pro I grabbed the rear handle and pulled the back of the ski down and climbed on quickly. Although I do remember watching a couple of my sons larger friends trying to do that. Sorry no video.

Really?

No you shouldnt block the air vents as those are there to let fresh air into the hull. Blocking these would essentially end up hurting/killing perfomance. They are also there to vent gas fumes from building inside the hull. Grab hold of that rear handle, kick your feet and boost yourself up on the rear platform. That's the easiest way for me to do it and I'm 6'3 240lbs.

[K447]

... the air vents close to the seat. 2001 Pro 1200.

I rolled off the ski, and while trying to get back on, I took on a bunch of water through the vents by the front seat latch. Is there any other way around it?

Im a bigger guy and it took me a few attempts to get back on at first. Can the two vents be blocked off, or put something there to limit the water going into the hull? ...

There is a water repellent (not waterproof) fabric vent cover material that some guys use. The product name escapes me at the moment, but it is also used on snowmobiles to keep snow powder out of the engine.

In terms of re-boarding, the two seater hulls are somewhat tippy, more so for heavier riders. A boarding step installed at the rear might be helpful. I have steps installed on my three seat models, and it does make it much easier to keep your weight centered as you climb on.

You can also insert the lanyard while standing on the step, so you can more quickly get the engine started and get the hull moving when you do get in position.

Tip: When you feel the hull rolling over, if you straighten the steering and immediately apply plenty of power, often the hull will stabilize and then return to normal level ride.

The jet pump not only provides thrust out the back, it also creates suction below the hull. Adding power sucks the hull down while the thrust builds forward speed which allows the low side of the hull to generate lift.

Find an open area to experiment with how far over you can roll the hull and still recover using power and straight ahead steering. Sometimes you just gotta have faith and hang on as the hull tries to get itself sorted out

[Mr. GP1800]

I tried my first deep water reboarding of my Pro 1200 over the weekend. I weigh about 205. It was hard to get on the back of the ski without it wanting to tip. What I did was to attach the lanyard, then get my knees on the rear platform, start the engine and then climb the rest of the way up. The little bit of jet pump thrust added a ton of stability. I thought of that because i have heard thats the only way to reboard a Blaster.