cleaning your siphon hose screens. do you?

[bowsniper]

While I was getting the ski up to par for this weekend, I always check the intake screen, siphone hoses, and custom intake water hose screens.

Here's what I found around my siphon hoses.

[Mr. GP1800]

I always check them. In fact if the system is dirty or clogged, they can actually draw water into the hull.

[Derwood98]

Personally, I check the screen every time I get back from a ride. I siliconed a retainer to the hull and zip tied to it. I gave myself enough slack to clean the screen. I don't get much debris on the screen, but worth checking none the less.

[K447]

I always check them...

+1

The MSX 140 siphon intake screens are really buried, especially down on the battery side. I was not monitoring it closely last year. When I did get around to it, they were rather gunked up.

I installed a bilge pump and custom bracket to the left of the pump tunnel late last year. Have not yet wired it up...

[Mr. GP1800]

I always check them...

+1

The MSX 140 siphon intake screens are really buried, especially down on the battery side. I was not monitoring it closely last year. When I did get around to it, they were rather gunked up.

I installed a bilge pump and custom bracket to the left of the pump tunnel late last year. Have not yet wired it up...

Do you have a pic of that bilge pump bracket? How will you be wiring it into the electrics?

[K447]

Custom Bilge pump bracket and installation in MSX 140

I always check them...

+1

The MSX 140 siphon intake screens are really buried, especially down on the battery side. I was not monitoring it closely last year. When I did get around to it, they were rather gunked up.

I installed a bilge pump and custom bracket to the left of the pump tunnel late last year. Have not yet wired it up...

Do you have a pic of that bilge pump bracket? ...

[K447]

... How will you be wiring it into the electrics?

LR-50 module, carefully connected into Yellow and Red/Purple.

LR-50 is NOT a voltage regulator, just an accessory power feed (Orange wire output). LR-52 is similar.




I used a hot wire Weller soldering gun with a custom shaped wire to cut through the foam. Works well, cuts at a reasonable rate. Need good ventilation!

[Mr. GP1800]

Im thinking it might be easier to stick the base of the pump down with some 4200 or 5200.....

[bowsniper]

That's a neat idea melting the foam with that soldering iron.

I also check the base and the impellor inside the bilge pump. That impeller like to wrap itself with stringy stuff and slows the pump down and put extra resistance on the motor and the volume of water is decreased thru the pump. Good way to burn it out if you don't clean it out periodically.

Thank god it was clean when I lost the intake hose last year. That lil pump saved my ski from going to the bottom of the south channel.

[K447]

I'm thinking it might be easier to stick the base of the pump down with some 4200 or 5200.....

I did not want to impede the drainage path to the rear, under the bilge pump. Not just for water but also for bilge debris, which I wanted to be able to simply flush out the rear drains with a garden hose while the hull is tilted nose high.

The MSX hull bottom in that area is angled towards the pump tunnel so the bilge pump cannot sit flush with the bottom and be tucked tight against the tunnel.

I elected to keep the bilge pump tight to the tunnel side and allow a small gap under the pump.

[Mr. GP1800]

I'm thinking it might be easier to stick the base of the pump down with some 4200 or 5200.....

I did not want to impede the drainage path to the rear, under the bilge pump. Not just for water but also for bilge debris, which I wanted to be able to simply flush out the rear drains with a garden hose while the hull is tilted nose high.

The MSX hull bottom in that area is angled towards the pump tunnel so the bilge pump cannot sit flush with the bottom and be tucked tight against the tunnel.

I elected to keep the bilge pump tight to the tunnel side and allow a small gap under the pump.

I guess I can see that.

[Mr. GP1800]

Is it possible to use a LR that is a voltage regulator using a diode or something to power a bilge pump in a MSX 140? I have a couple of LR 31-2s laying around and I want to be able to continuously power a bilge pump in my machine. I also want to power a depth finder.

[K447]

I have scoped it out and there are a few ways to get switched accessory power on a Polaris Ficht engine.

Either the old LR-50? (I need to double check the part number) module can be used (has Orange output but no voltage regulator function) OR the LR-503 Start/Stop module can be used.

The LR-503 also does NOT have a voltage regulator function. This is the critical requirement since the Yellow wire on a Ficht engine is only used to deliver RPM signal to the MFD.

Unlike the carburetor engines where the Yellow wire primary function was battery charging and the LR module primary function was regulating battery charge voltage, the Ficht engines and modules control battery charging via the EMM internally.

The hookup is straightforward with either the LR-50 or the LR-503;
Black goes to ground
Red/Purple from LR module goes to battery positive (via a fuse or circuit breaker)
Yellow goes to Yellow
Orange goes to Blige pump.

Since the Ficht wire harness has these signals in different places, I plan to create a small adapter harness to access ground via the start solenoid 'mushroom' connector. Battery positive is right there on the heavy solenoid post.

Update with finished harness section;


I am thinking I will also incorporate the LR-503 module's Start control such that the start solenoid will not engage if the Start button is pressed while the engine is already running. It is easy to accidentally press Start with engine running on the MSX 140, which then makes ugly noises from grinding the Bendix gears into the flywheel teeth. Easy to wire in since all the necessary signals are already at hand for the bilge pump configuration.

If I have not done so already in another thread, remind me later to post up a how-to for all this.

[Mr. GP1800]

Ok so I can use an LR-503. I was hoping I could do something with a LR 31-2 but I guess I can just buy an LR-503.

I assume the LR-502 used in the 99 Genesis could also be used, since it uses a separate LR-31 for the charging function.

[BlueFishCrisis]

The LR52 was the regulator which output approximately 2.5 vdc for the analog fuel gauges.

The LR50 is a simple alternator controlled switch.

I don't see why the simple LR23s can't be used as simply a switch by just connecting the yellow and orange wires (also ground). Ignore or cut the red purple to avoid the charging circuit? These are easy to find, in fact I have a few spares.....