How to remove the shafts out of the impeller 1997 polaris slt 780

[Ethan_0920]

Hello, I just recently purchased a running and driving polaris slt 780 for $300. I took it out to test the carbs' performance under load and as soon as I started driving a loud knocking sound was coming from the jet drive. So I pulled it out of the water and towed it home. I have now completely removed the jet drive and there is quite some carnage. So I have removed the impeller from the wear ring housing and stator and I am now trying to figure out how to remove the two shafts that are connected to it as pictured below. I also would like to know if it is even worth removing the shafts on the first place and instead just replacing everything all together because as you can see these bearings have been gone for awhile and the ski was still driven on them and they are now stuck onto the shaft. I know I can get them off but is there any reason why the shaft wouldn't be reuseable. I am an auto mechanic and I come across this bearing issue all the time on spindles where wheel bearings have completely just welded themselves to the spindle. However, when I do get them off the spindles can still be reused and I was wondering if I can do the same with these shafts. The front part of the shaft literally just fell out of the stator and I am under the impression that it usually stays in there when the jet pump is pulled apart so will that cause any issues regarding removing these shafts? The prop is complete junk, it has worn down so much to the point where there is a 3/4 inch gap between the prop and wear ring on each side. The wear ring will more than likely need to be replaced as well since the prop has just been riding right on it for who knows how long. I look forward to hearing back and finding some solutions to this catastrophe lol.




I can also provide picks of the wear ring and stator as well if needed.the

[K447]

Welcome.

The long front driveshaft just pulls straight out from the impeller nose. The shaft might be binding on the rubber o-ring that seals the splines or the splines might just be tight. It would be ok to use medium heat on the impeller nose to help it release.

The stub shaft is threaded into the back of the impeller and is torqued quite tight. There is a special tool that fits into the impeller front splines. The flats on the back end of stub shaft go into a stout vice and then the impeller is torqued loose. Standard left-loosey thread direction.

The stub shaft itself, when it was assembled, had two bearing races separated with a spacer. The spacer is aluminum but the tricky part is that the length is critical. Looking at the photos, I would be inclined to buy a new or excellent condition used spacer.

If you can find a good (new or used) stub shaft or perhaps source an entire good jet pump with impeller that might be the way to go.

All the 148mm Polaris jet pumps are basically the same parts, just the impeller is matched to the engine power.

Stators exist in black painted aluminum (typically five vanes) and unpainted stainless steel (six vanes, sometimes more). The stainless stators are 'better' but the aluminum version also works just fine.

[xlint89]

The driveshaft is almost out. Just finish pulling it straight out and DO NOT hit yourself in the face when it releases.

The stub shaft is toast. Most likely the pump is done for as well.

I'd get the driveshaft out and inspect the splines for damage or sharp points. If that's the case, replace it and inspect the impeller splines then. DO NOT put your finger in the impeller unless you like metal splinters in your finger.

Might be worth sourcing a good used jet pump and possibly impeller if it's damaged.

Also, there should be 2 rubber bumpers installed on driveshaft. One on each end. And a large rubber O ring that seals water out of the impeller splines