2000 Pro 785 Fuel Line Replacement Advice

[2KPros]

I'm going to rebuild the carbs on my 2000 and replace the fuel lines. I picked up this fuel line since it seems like the best option from what I've read:

Amazon.com: Sierra International Shields Series 368 Low Permeation Marine Fuel Hose 1/4" x 50' 16-368-0146 Shields Series 368 Low Permeation Marine Fuel Hose 1/4" x 50',Black,116-368-0146 : Automotive

I was advised that I can bypass the fuel/water separator and replace it with a standard fuel filter if I use Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment with every refill since it supposedly deals with any ethanol/water issues. Does that sound like solid advice? Can someone suggest an appropriate fuel filter to install please?

How important is it to replace the factory hose clamps with the Oetikers? Is access a problem with the crimping tool for people that have done this?

I also want to replace the shut off valve since these have a bad reputation. These are NLA. Is there a replacement available that fits the hull and the original knob? I'm thinking if not, then I should leave the original valve in place so the ski looks factory, but install an inline shut off valve inside the hull. Or does that violate USCG rules? What's the best solution here?

[K447]

What are you considering to be a ‘standard fuel filter’ ?

Water in the fuel can happen through several ways. Condensation from the air inside the tank can happen. How much depends on the humidity in the air and the temperature swings the tank experiences through the sunshine day vs. dark night.

If somehow the fuel filler cap seal or the filler neck has degraded/cracked* then rain water or splash water while riding can work its way inside the tank.

Fuel treatment product with ethanol can hold small amounts of water in suspension in the fuel but it does not cope well with significant amounts of water.

The water separator gives you an easy way to see and gauge whether there is any real amount of water flowing with the fuel from the tank. The two o-ring seals in the separator are replaceable, so why not keep it in service? You can add fuel additive product if you wish.

With Polaris carburetor fuel system it is important that there be minimal flow restriction from tank to fuel pump (fuel pump being at the engine). The Polaris OEM fuel filters (on the models that came with a fuel filter) was of the low flow resistance type. The fuel:water separator is likewise a low restriction flow design.

A primary requirement is that the entire fuel system from tank to fuel pump be 100% air tight. The fuel pump creates a modest suction to draw the fuel from the tank. Even a small leak can allow air bubbles into the fuel flow, which degrades the ability of the fuel pump to actually pump the fuel. And the carbs also prefer to be supplied with non-aerated fuel.

This is where the Oetiker hose clamp recommendation comes from. They provide a really secure seal around the hose to the fitting. Tidy when installed and cannot self-loosen with time and vibration.

Tiny gear clamps can work but it is easy to under or over tighten them, and sometimes they will wrinkle the hose material around the barb fitting, with risk of a tiny gap occurring. And of course may self-loosen while in service.

Some guys use zip ties. I am not a fan. Zip ties can also be under or over tightened, and can also wrinkle the hose. Quality of said zip ties varies widely. Some can become brittle over time, which would be unwanted inside a PWC hull with a hot vibrating engine. There are specialty zip ties with a curved head to better conform to the hose shape. I suppose that is slightly better, still not a fan if you can fit an Oetiker clamp.


* Inspect the fuel filler cap and neck for hairline cracks. Replace the o-ring if age hardened.

[sdlvx]

What's wrong with the stock fuel filter? It's actually quite good and you can rebuild them with stainless steel mesh wire cloth. They are pretty reasonable. You can find it on ebay, cheapest place I've found. I just use a little bit of a big sheet to rebuild one, then use the rest as a filter when I pour the gas from the can into the tank.

[2KPros]

OK I'm going to keep the fuel/water separator! Those are valid points about how a lot of water can get into the fuel, way more than Star Tron can deal with. That was some bad advice that I received for sure.
And I'll use the Oetikers.
Any comments on that fuel line? I've read that I must use the A1-15 for safety reasons alone. I'm sure that clear colored stuff is not compliant but a lot of people seem to love it.
Any advice on the shut off valve issue? Can I just bypass it and install this inside the hull instead?

Fuel ON/OFF Valve 1/4" – Watcon

[HiPeRcO]

A1-15 is the ultimate, but can be very bulky. B1-15 is an acceptable compromise, it still has low permeation but does not have the same fire resistance as the A1. Why anyone would use non-marine rated plastic (flammable!) fuel line ANYWHERE is beyond my ability to understand (I wouldn't put that crap on my lawnmower, let alone inside an enclosed jetski hull...)

[2KPros]

Which Oetiker style do you guys prefer? I went to their website and the selection is overwhelming.

[xlint89]

I'm going to rebuild the carbs on my 2000 and replace the fuel lines. I picked up this fuel line since it seems like the best option from what I've read:

Amazon.com: Sierra International Shields Series 368 Low Permeation Marine Fuel Hose 1/4" x 50' 16-368-0146 Shields Series 368 Low Permeation Marine Fuel Hose 1/4" x 50',Black,116-368-0146 : Automotive

I was advised that I can bypass the fuel/water separator and replace it with a standard fuel filter if I use Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment with every refill since it supposedly deals with any ethanol/water issues. Does that sound like solid advice? Can someone suggest an appropriate fuel filter to install please?

How important is it to replace the factory hose clamps with the Oetikers? Is access a problem with the crimping tool for people that have done this?

I also want to replace the shut off valve since these have a bad reputation. These are NLA. Is there a replacement available that fits the hull and the original knob? I'm thinking if not, then I should leave the original valve in place so the ski looks factory, but install an inline shut off valve inside the hull. Or does that violate USCG rules? What's the best solution here?

You've gotten some good advice already. Let me throw in my $.02.

That fuel hose you asked about would be perfect if you're looking to keep it USCG approved. I'm going to disagree with Hiperco on the B1 rated hose as far as USCG approval. The A1 is meant for constant fuel contact (supply lines that is always holding fuel inside it). The B1 rated is meant for vent lines and applications that see limited fuel. Would it work? Absolutely. Would CG nail you for using it? Prob not. I've never had them inspect my fuel hoses when they conducted a safety check.

Bad advice. Keep the factory fuel filter/water separator. It's a good set up.

Oetiker hose clamps are nice. A little bit of a pain if you need to conduct service, but not real bad. They are a MUCH better clamp than the worm gear clamps. (Although there is a real nice worm gear clamp that doesn't cut into the hose, but are pretty expensive. https://www.westmarine.com/pyi-pyi-3...020455267.html )

You want an Oetiker clamp that has 100% clamping force around the hose with no gaps. ( https://www.westmarine.com/sierra-oe...010501658.html ) Now the hardest part is getting the correct clamp with them having such a small range size adjustment. You don't want it too small that it won't slide over the barb fitting with the hose installed, and you don't want it too loose that it doesn't do what you need it to.

Just make sure to buy a bag with extra clamps to keep on hand for service work later down the line. Mcmaster Carr has bags of like 30 pieces which aren't real expensive.

The Sea Doo fuel shut off valve fits in the same location as OEM, HOWEVER, it does not match with the correct knob positions. So it will not match the ON and OFF sticker on the hull. No big deal. And they are pretty cheap to purchase.

If Watcon has a fuel valve, it's prob going to work. But I would call and verify prior to purchase.

[785 lugs]

i use regular fuel line like 1000's of other guys for yrs ,you can put the best fuel line on the market in your ski i don't care if you put metal lines you still have a plastic tank that will melt and pour gallons of fuel in your hull ,if it starts on fire its pretty much done anyway

[2KPros]

Thank you all for the great comments.
I decided to return that Sierra fuel line and ended up buying these (after studying the Hot Products catalog):

1/4" Transparent Fuel Line — Atlantic Jet Sports
Oetiker Squeeze On Low Profile Clamps — Atlantic Jet Sports
Side Jaw Pincer Tool For Oetiker Clamps — Atlantic Jet Sports
Mikuni "JIS" Forum Carburetor Screwdriver — Atlantic Jet Sports
Amazon.com: Motion Pro 12-0013 Hose Shear : Tools & Home Improvement

[xlint89]

Oh boy.....

Hopefully it's not a real soft material. I had collapsing problems with Tygon fuel hose before. And make sure you use reinforced hose for the pulse signal to the fuel pump. (Engine case to fuel pump)

[pascoea]

Oh boy.....

Hopefully it's not a real soft material. I had collapsing problems with Tygon fuel hose before. And make sure you use reinforced hose for the pulse signal to the fuel pump. (Engine case to fuel pump)

I subscribed to this thread to hear this exact conversation play out, lol. I tried Tygon on my last ski and absolutely HATED it, couldn't get it to seal. I ended up ripping out the whole mess and throwing plain black fuel line at it. I'm thinking the stuff 2kPros bought is a Polyurethane. I'm "upgrading" my 900 with the same stuff, and it feels WAY different than the Tygon. I guess we'll see how it plays out.

[32DegH2O]

Motion Pro Premium Fuel Line - Motion Pro

As the ole saying goes...you get what you pay for!

[HiPeRcO]

Marine grade fuel line is under $3/ft. No reason or justification whatsoever to buy anything but.

https://defender.com/en_us/trident-305-barrier-lined-b1-15-fuel-hose