1996 780 Fuji Rebuild

[K447]

Question for the gurus, The 780 ebox seems to have a jumper/insert in line with the green/red Stator to CDI connector. A yellow pigtail comes off the insert, with a male spade end. Any idea what this is for? The wiring diagram doesn't indicate it, so I am guessing it is a bulletin or update of some sort. I can get a photo if needed....

Thanks!

VERY fuzzy memory, but I seem to recall there was a 'modulator' update that spliced into the stator to CDI wiring. Which engine it was for, I do not immediately recall

Better late than never, but the modulator update was to correct an intermittent no spark condition on the 1995 SLX, and was later included in SLX 780s out of the factory.

No Yellow wire
I think the OP is referring to a Service Bulletin change that rewired the MFD speedometer Yellow wire to link to the trigger coil rather than the charging coil. This was to correct erratic speedometer readings on some models.

Would that would be this modulator, retrofit for the 1995 SLX 780 and factory OEM on 1996 onwards 780 engines?


What connector is on the other end of that Green/Red wire?

Somewhere the Installation Instructions for that modulator are posted. Do you have the link handy? And the part number for this thing?

[BlueFishCrisis]

Question for the gurus, The 780 ebox seems to have a jumper/insert in line with the green/red Stator to CDI connector. A yellow pigtail comes off the insert, with a male spade end. Any idea what this is for? The wiring diagram doesn't indicate it, so I am guessing it is a bulletin or update of some sort. I can get a photo if needed....

Thanks!

VERY fuzzy memory, but I seem to recall there was a 'modulator' update that spliced into the stator to CDI wiring. Which engine it was for, I do not immediately recall

Better late than never, but the modulator update was to correct an intermittent no spark condition on the 1995 SLX, and was later included in SLX 780s out of the factory.

No Yellow wire
I think the OP is referring to a Service Bulletin change that rewired the MFD speedometer Yellow wire to link to the trigger coil rather than the charging coil. This was to correct erratic speedometer readings on some models.

Correct. And it was to connect to the MFD Tachometer yellow wire in order to correct erratic RPM readings....

Would that would be this modulator, retrofit for the 1995 SLX 780 and factory OEM on 1996 onwards 780 engines?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]316939[/ATTACH]

What connector is on the other end of that Green/Red wire?

Somewhere the Installation Instructions for that modulator are posted. Do you have the link handy? And the part number for this thing?

Yes - The Green/Red connects inline with the Green/Red CDI and Stator connections. The documentation is in the Service Bulletin Download. PN 3240287.

[TyCast]

Awesome pictorial thread BlueFishCrysis!

You are a master of the Fuji engine! I will be referring to this thread if I ever do a full overhaul. Great stuff man, well done.

Keep up that great work man!
- TC

[JohnMagee]

Great thread. Enjoyed all the info!

[kevinz]

this thread should prove to be very relevent to my current SLT 750 restore...and I just so happen to need an engine, which means I could use one from a 780...hmmm...

[def]

awesome writeup! thanks

[Phil_M_650]

I like to use a little extra in the grooves for the seals to be sure that they are completely coated.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]295474[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]295475[/ATTACH]

Slide the oil seals on the crank shaft and carefully set it in place. Note where the pins are on the bearings. The PTO bearing has a ring on it that fits into a groove in the cases.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]295476[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]295477[/ATTACH]

I did not get a photo, but next I set the top half of the crank case over the bottom half. I used 1211 on the seal grooves only for the top half. You will need to hold the rods up to get them through the top half of the case. An extra set of hands makes this easier.....

Hello to all, I know I am reading this a year later but, what is done to prepare the crank and crank bearings during a rebuild? Should all the crank bearings be oiled or greased? Should the needle bearings be oiled or greased. I know that vacuum pressure is designed to force the oil from the cylinders to all the bearings but I don't really trust this since I have three bad used cranks with bad Mag end bearings? Could I grease all the bearings with say a good quality Royal Purple Bearing grease. I care more about longevity than top end speed. Thanks for a great forum...Green Hulk is a great resource!

[kensmith]

Also had two minor glitches this weekend. First, as I was messing around with the tail cone extension, I pulled the pump and happened to notice my intake grate a bit "wobbly". Found this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]312356[/ATTACH]

Not sure how long it had been running like this, but I imagine I would have lost it had the nut inside spun a few more times..... I did notice that speed was down and then I actually lost MPH reading on the MFD. Tightened the bolt up with sealant / loctite and everything is back to normal.

I found mine exactly like this also & so I impacted it on maybe a little too much and broke the brass insert in half with the phillips screw tite in it , I had to cut it off and replace the insert and panel bond it to the hull' ops

[kevinz]

I like to use a little extra in the grooves for the seals to be sure that they are completely coated.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]295474[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]295475[/ATTACH]

Slide the oil seals on the crank shaft and carefully set it in place. Note where the pins are on the bearings. The PTO bearing has a ring on it that fits into a groove in the cases.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]295476[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]295477[/ATTACH]

I did not get a photo, but next I set the top half of the crank case over the bottom half. I used 1211 on the seal grooves only for the top half. You will need to hold the rods up to get them through the top half of the case. An extra set of hands makes this easier.....

Hello to all, I know I am reading this a year later but, what is done to prepare the crank and crank bearings during a rebuild? Should all the crank bearings be oiled or greased? Should the needle bearings be oiled or greased. I know that vacuum pressure is designed to force the oil from the cylinders to all the bearings but I don't really trust this since I have three bad used cranks with bad Mag end bearings? Could I grease all the bearings with say a good quality Royal Purple Bearing grease. I care more about longevity than top end speed. Thanks for a great forum...Green Hulk is a great resource!

I would get one of those little oil cans and squirt a healthy amount of 2 stroke oil into them, that's what I plan on doing in a couple weeks when my crank gets here.

[BlueFishCrisis]

I would get one of those little oil cans and squirt a healthy amount of 2 stroke oil into them, that's what I plan on doing in a couple weeks when my crank gets here.

This is what I did during assembly. You can really only access the two end bearings, and those will have an oil seal directly adjacent....

[twoballscrewball]

Hey BlueFishCrisis, Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to put this writeup here. It is probably one of the best technical walkthroughs I've ever used, and I'm an engineer Your photos and accompanying writing could be in a published manual. Actually, it's better than I've seen in some manuals

So, Thanks