Another 1995 SL 750 Project

[Larsonator]

So I thought I'd start a project thread where I could ask lots of questions and post my plans and progress.

I sort of inherited a 95 SL 750 from my parents that I want to put a little time and money into to get it running back up to snuff, with some mods. I've already learned a ton from this site just since I posted last week.

Here are the problems I know about:
-down on bottom end power, starts hard, wont idle. Seems to run descent once up on plane. Speedo shows about 48-49 mph. I already found broken reeds and really dirty carbs
-trim doesn't work
-takes on water

Here are the initial plans:
-new reeds
-reed spacers
-rebuild/clean carbs
-find leak-bearing/seal, hose connection leaking, ?
-troubleshoot/fix the trim
-find the right thumb throttle
-figure out what's on it for an impeller, maybe upgrade if needed
-longer pump assembly, maybe a wedge
-ride plate, maybe a grate.
-new pistons/rings
-3 outlet fuel pump with new fuel lines
-new fuel selector
-new mats
-hull repair, it's got some descent rash on the bottom.
-possibly a primer setup/choke delete, and oil pump delete. Still researching this.

I've already ordered the carb rebuild kits, reed spacers, and 3 outlet fuel pump. I'm going to order a fuel selector, CT reeds, reed gaskets and some fuel line this evening. Plans are to clean/rebuild the carbs next weekend, do a compression test, do the redneck index check, install the reeds and spacers and investigate the leak some more. Only a couple more weekends of riding around here so this winter I will do most of the work in my basement.

Questions I have/things I'm still researching:
-what size fuel line is needed. I bought the ebay pump that comes with a short length of line, but I think I'll need to get more to change all the lines out. Not sure if they're all the same size.
-What other mods are a good bang for the buck? Exhaust, heads, porting, etc?
-Any good links on where to get a new or good used bearing/seal unit, and any links on changing it out? It's probably where my water leak is coming from.
-what manual is the best? I think I saw two different brands.
-What thread are the studs for the carbs? I'll need longer ones for the reed spacers. I'm sure it's metric, and the local hardware store probably wont have it. Could bolts be used?
-Anyone do their own paint and hull repair? I can do auto body work, fiberglass and paint, but I thought boat stuff had a special gel coat. I'd like to paint it but I'm not sure how regular automotive base/clear paint would hold up.
-what are the ins and outs of the longer pump setup-like what models I can get one from, what other parts are needed, etc. I'd like to get a better ride plate now, but I'm not sure if I'd just need a different one after installing the longer pump setup. I'm also looking into the wedges, but I'm not sure how much I need, and if it would still be value added with the longer pump setup.
-are the trim motors pretty standard on all the models? I see a bunch on ebay but I'm not sure if one out of a different year or model will work.

Any input is greatly appreciated. I'm sure I have more questions but this should be enough to irriate everyone for now.

Thanks
Eric

[xlint89]

So I thought I'd start a project thread where I could ask lots of questions and post my plans and progress.

I sort of inherited a 95 SL 750 from my parents that I want to put a little time and money into to get it running back up to snuff, with some mods. I've already learned a ton from this site just since I posted last week.

Here are the problems I know about:
-down on bottom end power, starts hard, wont idle. Seems to run descent once up on plane. Speedo shows about 48-49 mph. I already found broken reeds and really dirty carbs
-trim doesn't work
-takes on water

Here are the initial plans:
-new reeds
-reed spacers
-rebuild/clean carbs
-find leak-bearing/seal, hose connection leaking, ?
-troubleshoot/fix the trim
-find the right thumb throttle
-figure out what's on it for an impeller, maybe upgrade if needed
-longer pump assembly, maybe a wedge
-ride plate, maybe a grate.
-new pistons/rings
-3 outlet fuel pump with new fuel lines
-new fuel selector
-new mats
-hull repair, it's got some descent rash on the bottom.
-possibly a primer setup/choke delete, and oil pump delete. Still researching this.

I've already ordered the carb rebuild kits, reed spacers, and 3 outlet fuel pump. I'm going to order a fuel selector, CT reeds, reed gaskets and some fuel line this evening. Plans are to clean/rebuild the carbs next weekend, do a compression test, do the redneck index check, install the reeds and spacers and investigate the leak some more. Only a couple more weekends of riding around here so this winter I will do most of the work in my basement.

Questions I have/things I'm still researching:
-what size fuel line is needed. I bought the ebay pump that comes with a short length of line, but I think I'll need to get more to change all the lines out. Not sure if they're all the same size.
-What other mods are a good bang for the buck? Exhaust, heads, porting, etc?
-Any good links on where to get a new or good used bearing/seal unit, and any links on changing it out? It's probably where my water leak is coming from.
-what manual is the best? I think I saw two different brands.
-What thread are the studs for the carbs? I'll need longer ones for the reed spacers. I'm sure it's metric, and the local hardware store probably wont have it. Could bolts be used?
-Anyone do their own paint and hull repair? I can do auto body work, fiberglass and paint, but I thought boat stuff had a special gel coat. I'd like to paint it but I'm not sure how regular automotive base/clear paint would hold up.
-what are the ins and outs of the longer pump setup-like what models I can get one from, what other parts are needed, etc. I'd like to get a better ride plate now, but I'm not sure if I'd just need a different one after installing the longer pump setup. I'm also looking into the wedges, but I'm not sure how much I need, and if it would still be value added with the longer pump setup.
-are the trim motors pretty standard on all the models? I see a bunch on ebay but I'm not sure if one out of a different year or model will work.

Any input is greatly appreciated. I'm sure I have more questions but this should be enough to irriate everyone for now.

Thanks
Eric

Holy novel Batman!!! First, compression test and crank index is in order. Don't be buying parts if your heart of the engine is bad. No need for pistons if you still have good compression. 48-49 on speedo isn't bad. Only down maybe 4-5 MPH, but that may be the reeds and carb problems. For the water leak, tip the ski up a little and fill the hull with water. Just enough to cover the driveshaft. Water should come out, where it's entering it. Trim motor only works when she's running, and it is identical to all others Polaris uses. The PRO trim motor will work too, but is faster to adj and usually more expensive too. What you have listed is a VERY good plan, but you're looking at ALOT of $$$ to do all that. How bout we get you going first, then we can upgrade things from there. It's a tuning nightmare if you throw a bunch of parts on a ski all at once. Once you start modding, the manual don't mean squat anymore since nothing is stock. Follow my lead? Check out Groupk.com and see what they did to a 750. That will give you much info you are looking for, as to what next.

[Larsonator]

yeah that was probably a bit much. figured I'd just get it all out.

I'm definitely going to do the compression and index check right off. I'm hoping for a big improvement with the reeds and carb cleaning. My thoughts were that I'll need the parts I've currently bought, anyways, and it'd be nice if I can get it running descent now before I do anything more extensive this winter. Also going to try and nail the water leak now.

I'll post an update after next weekend, and go from there.

[Larsonator]

seal

if my thru hull is leaking, is this the unit I'd need?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Polaris-SL-SLT-650-750-780-Bearing-Carrier_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ56422QQihZ001QQitemZ110158025366QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[mystahagy]

if my thru hull is leaking, is this the unit I'd need?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Polar...spagenameZWDVW

I'd say so if that's where it's coming in at. You've filled your current one up with grease though, right? Fill till you see it just push past the seal. If bidding goes up on that one, John Zigler's got one for sale.

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/radracingpics/album/576460762346084102/photo/294928803698839182/2

Make sure those seals look ok and it's got that SS spring going around the lip too.

[Larsonator]

no, I didnt know you could grease it. I'm planning to fill it up with water and investigate where the leak is this weekend after I put the new reeds in. Is there a grease fitting? I don't recall seeing one.

[mystahagy]

If you look closely you'll see a hex shaped fitting on there. It's a good idea to remove it and replace it with a traditional zerk fitting. Same idea on your coupling at the motor. Grease them puppies up real good just until you see it push past the seals.

[Larsonator]

sweet. thanks for the tip.

[Larsonator]

well, I went to finish taking the carbs apart to clean/rebuild. No good. Everything is too corroded. I ended up stripping the two philips head screws in the center carb that hold that quarter circle piece in, and in trying to decide what to do, I snapped off the head off the philips screw in another carb that holds the needle shaft down. I can't believe how rusty all the screws are in this.

I'm going to have to look around for some other carbs. I wish I hadnt wasted all the money on the three rebuild kits. There are a couple on ebay. Not too many good pictures. I'd hate to buy exactly what have.

[mystahagy]

I recently cleaned out my rusty carbs, and noticed all that rust came from just the screws. A couple I even had to slightly drill into, tap a "star" or torx bit into it, and it unscrewed right out. When cleaning, CLR helped get a lot of that rust, and also cleaned with carb cleaner. Went down to the local hardware store and got all the 3mm and 4mm screws in stainless steel.

I know water shouldn't be in there in the first place, but the screws seemed like the only thing that rusted so I wanted to prevent that from happening again.

[Larsonator]

Update: Beerdart is setting me up. He's sending me an extended pump setup w/4* wedge & 750 impeller, extended ride plate, some bat wint style intake grate, some 780 carbs with 110m/67.5l/18po, and ocean pro F/A's. I'll be using my metering blocks, diaphrams and covers, so I'll get some new stainless screws at the hardware store. He might have a new thru hull seal assembly, too. If not, I'm going to install the zerk fitting and grease up what I have. I already have boyseen pro series reeds on hand, reed spacers, and a triple outlet fuel pump. I need to order a fuel selector and reed gaskets today. When I get over to install all this, hopefully this weekend, I'll check compression and index.
Question-with the boyseen reeds installed, do you still use that stock plastic white cage thing that fits inside the reed cage?

[xlint89]

That's the stuffer, and yes you would.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

^Yupper^

[Larsonator]

so I got it up and running yesterday. Between getting out of the house late and entertaining the 2 year old, I didnt get nearly what I wanted, but the reeds went in, 780 carbs with the o/p flame arrestors, triple outlet pump, and the r&d intake grate went on. It runs, but needs some tweaking, as I posted in my carb tuning thread.

Next weekend will probably be my last weekend to play with it before it comes out. Hopefully I can get it running strong, maybe even get the the extended pump assy on so I can get a good baseline before doing any winter mods.

I greased the seal assy, and it still takes on water pretty quick. I'll have to investigate that more once it's on a trailer.

Eric

[mystahagy]

I greased the seal assy, and it still takes on water pretty quick. I'll have to investigate that more once it's on a trailer.

Eric

Yeah while doing the pump go ahead and pull that driveshaft back and remove the seal. Look for the inner surface not being misshapen, SS springs are intact around that lip on both ends, and that it's snug around the driveshaft. On installation one thing I learned to be careful of is to grease up everything when getting that driveshaft through the seals, otherwise you can damage the seal or the lip will roll and the springs will pop off.