Another 1995 SL 750 Project

[Artiom]

It is easier to remove oil pump when carbs off, otherwise it is really hard. Oil pump is on the back end of the engine. Make sure you removed pump gear too (on the picture).
After removing oil pump you have two options to disable low oil warning ether install 33 Ohm resistor between wires attachet to the sending unit or just fix float sending unit with zip tie (xlints suggestion).

[xlint89]

If I remember correctly, the oil pump has a screw that is almost inaccessible to remove. You may need to pull the engine for it. (NOT POSITIVE)

As for the oil indicator, Artiom is correct. I actually like the 33 ohm resistor, but the zip tie is much easier to do.

[Larsonator]

I'll check it out when the carbs are back off. I have the block off plate coming in the mail regardless.

When you say the pump is on the back of the engine, you mean the mag side, or the pto side? Or maybe "back" means the right side, under the carbs. I'm all f'd up....

[starflight]

Towards the rear on the carb side.

[Artiom]

I removed oil pump with engine in the hull. It is doable.
Larsonator, agree it is always confusing back, front, mag, pto, etc.
The oil pump is located on the side of the engine under the carbs, close to the side of the engine where drive shaft is attached (pto).

[Larsonator]

Thanks guys, I'm all over it. I should be able to get the pump out, block off plate installed, reed spacers moved, and primer installed this weekend. Unfortunately, with a non functioning mfd, I have no idea how much fuel is in it to mix in the oil. Anyone know how big the tank is, and what ratio to run these at? I can just fill it up, the mix the oil in. Also, can you just mix in the regular injection oil, or is there a different pre-mix type of two stroke oil that should be used?

Any suggestions on the off-idle bog, if low speed adjustments don't help? They didnt help last year when I first put the carbs on.

thanks
Eric

[K447]

...with a non functioning MFD, I have no idea how much fuel is in it to mix in the oil.
Anyone know how big the tank is, and what ratio to run these at?
I can just fill it up, the mix the oil in.
Also, can you just mix in the regular injection oil, or is there a different pre-mix type of two stroke oil that should be used?

Any suggestions on the off-idle bog, if low speed adjustments don't help? They didn't help last year when I first put the carbs on.

thanks
Eric

Fuel tank capacities are in the 1992-1998 Service Manual.

Oil ratio is 40:1, with 32:1 if you are breaking in a new engine top end.

Any TC-W3 rated oil will mix properly with the gasoline.

Never trust the MFD or fuel gauge for the proportion of the tank capacity that is actually remaining. These gauges are really just an approximate level. When it says 1/2 full, the actual level can be quite different.

If you are just converting to pre-mix, plan to fill the gas tank to capacity, and add enough oil for the full tank before you go to the gas station, so it mixes well in the tank. If you can, adding the oil before the gas hepls ensure that the gas swirls with the oil to mix it thoroughly.

After that, you must figure out how to accurately match the oil quantity to the fuel mix. Some use a separate fuel can of known size, and always add the same amount of oil for each full can of gasoline.

Some just fill the PWC tank, read the gas pump fuel quantity, then calculate and add the needed oil right afterwards. In which case, you hope the bumpy ride to the launch ramp is enough to fully mix the oil with the fuel.

[Larsonator]

thanks K447. Looks like 9.8 gallons

I see a pro 785 getting parted out in the classifieds. Anything off that which would be a good upgrade on this 750? CDI maybe? Will the seat fit?

[xlint89]

9.8 gals is capacity. 40:1 for normal riding = 1 qt. oil

The PRO CDI is a nice upgrade. And so is the 44mm carbs with intake maniflod and F/A.

[Larsonator]

Oil pump is gone, and the reed spacers are moved. Gas/oil mixed at 40:1. I left some oil in the tank for now. Need to get that tank out and either install the resistor or zip tie it. Oh, the mfd is working now. I had it unplugged the whole time I was working on it. Seemed to do the trick. Also installed the primer kit. Hope I dont need that choke again, I mangled two of the shafts to get it apart without taking the carbs off the rack. Again, I had just enough time finishing, as the weather was crapping up, to ride it for a little bit. No time to play with the low speeds.

Next weekend it's finger throttle, OMI rogue grips, hydroturf, oil tank removal and some tuning time.

I did note that with the current setup, it was turning just under 6300 at wot? What am I shooting for?

[Larsonator]

update

For anyone interested....hydroturf installed, with a new thumb throttle lever. I re-glued the current grips, but will probably pick up some of the ODI rogue grips at some point. I'd really like to get a UMI handlebar setup. I like the open bar with just a small pad look.

Also changed all the rest of the fuel lines, removed the oil tank, zip tied the oil tank sending unit, and got it running 100% better by opening the low speed screws way more than I thought they needed to be. I'll fine tune it some more this weekend, maybe play with h/s screws and do some plug chops. I need to read up on the piston wash thing, and get a small light somewhere to do it with. It was pretty fun to ride and running hard.

I'm thinking next up will be an impeller of some sort that will net some low end with little or no top end loss, as well as a pro 785 CDI. Probably new pistons/rings this winter.

thanks again to all that have helped me.

Eric

[Larsonator]

So its been a minute since I had this ski out. It's been housing rodents in the woods for about 14 years...

I honestly cant remember if it was running when parked. Reading this thread was interesting remembering all the work I did to it.

I picked up a 97 SL900 yesterday and am thinking about trying to bring this 750 back to life.

Wish me luck...