97 SL1050 Driveshaft Removal

[fishy503]

I'm currently swapping an engine out of a 97 SL1050 with a fresh one as the current motor is blown up. I have everything removed except the engine mounting bolts and the driveshaft as it seems to be stuck. The impeller popped off with no issue but any time I pull on the driveshaft it makes a small clunking noise as if there's something holding it in that I can't see. I've looked at diagrams and it doesn't look like anything is holding it but I'm wondering if there's a trick on removing it or if I just need to pull harder.

Thanks

[casey67]

Welcome to GreenHulk

The clunk is probably the crankshaft.
The driveshaft really just pushes into the "coupler" that is threaded onto the crankshaft.
It should have a rubber dampened coupler, which would be less likely to have damaged the splines on driveshaft. (exact same splines as at impeller)

Yep, pull harder.

[pascoea]

Welcome to GreenHulk
Yep, pull harder.

The couple I've tried to remove really fought me, usually the "pull harder" method worked. Careful to not punch yourself in the nose when it finally does let go.

[fishy503]

What was your method of removing them? I've tried pulling on it by hand (which doesn't really work) and then tied a slipknot on the shaft and then tied the rest of the rope to a 2x4 and tried tugging. Ending up breaking the rope lol

[pascoea]

What was your method of removing them? I've tried pulling on it by hand (which doesn't really work) and then tied a slipknot on the shaft and then tied the rest of the rope to a 2x4 and tried tugging. Ending up breaking the rope lol

Honestly, the couple I've done popped out without a ton of fuss. I broke the stator away from the pump housing, got a couple of fingers behind it and gave it a sharp yank. The shaft stayed in the impeller.

I'd try and wiggle it up/down/left/right. You won't get more than a half-inch-ish either direction but it might be enough to get some movement. You could try giving it some love taps back inwards, use a 2x4 chunk so you're not hitting the shaft with hammer. And don't go wailing on it too hard. Or get a stronger rope.

The only thing holding it in place is a rubber o-ring and 15 years of grime.

[casey67]

Well, that does not sound right. It has straight splines exactly like the impeller side. And usually pulls out pretty easy.
I would guess there is some sort of damage to the splines or coupler.

As mentioned the coupler threads onto the crankshaft, using a rope to lock the rear (PTO) piston, you could unthread the coupler.
Now ,the coupling is on tight, like 100ft lbs.

long style driveshafts can be found on e-bay.

Part #'s could be found here: https://parts.polarisind.com/Browse/Browse.asp

Most used engines will still have the coupler installed.

[fishy503]

Well, that does not sound right. It has straight splines exactly like the impeller side. And usually pulls out pretty easy.
I would guess there is some sort of damage to the splines or coupler.

As mentioned the coupler threads onto the crankshaft, using a rope to lock the rear (PTO) piston, you could unthread the coupler.
Now ,the coupling is on tight, like 100ft lbs.

long style driveshafts can be found on e-bay.

Part #'s could be found here: https://parts.polarisind.com/Browse/Browse.asp

Most used engines will still have the coupler installed.

Ended up getting the motor out. Disconnected the coupler from the crank and pulled it back to give a little room for the engine to come out. Thanks for the tip. Should I be worried at all about the coupler and driveshaft since it still won't come out of the ski or should I just send it and connect it to the new motor? New one doesn't have a coupler installed.

[K447]

- motor out. - the coupler and driveshaft since it still won't come out of the ski ...

With the engine out the driveshaft can slide forward and out of the hull. The through-hull assembly might have to come out with the shaft.

Then the driveshaft can be poked out of the coupler from the engine side. There should be a rubber bumper stuck into the end of the driveshaft. Remove the rubber before using a drift to push the driveshaft out.

The splines on the shaft and splines inside the coupler should be inspected for damage.
And greased before reinsertion.
There might be an o-ring just inside the coupler to hold the grease in, or a rubber taper cap.