785 project - restoration work

[pascoea]

Came across what looks to be a good deal on an ocean pro ride plate.

What are your guys' thoughts? Worth the hassle?

[xlint89]

OP ride plates are good. However, I don't think they made one for the 785. You can prob modify one from the SL ride plate. (they had the "R" or race version which was shorter. And the "O" or ocean plate that was longer)

When I say to modify the plate, the 785 uses 2 more screws than the SL.

[pascoea]

Ah, good insight. My half-ass internet search led me to belive they were drop-in compatible. If nothing else, slap it on the 900.

[xlint89]

It can be modded to fit easily. See the additional mounting hole near the intake grate notch?

[pascoea]

Never did pull the trigger on that Ocean Pro plate, figured I'd like to get the feel of how she rides before I start farting around with the handling stuff.

I did finally find a decent enough deal on a couple used MFDs, though. I used one of them as a transplant recipient for the original's brain. This kind of surprised me when I got it together:



Also, I did manage to get the other MFD working. If anyone is looking for a decent-enough 8-pin. pn 3280202

[xlint89]

Looks good. Very clear

[pascoea]

Looks good. Very clear

Shoot, in my "editing" I removed the most important part... I was intending the comment to highlight that the MFD pulled from the first Pro I bought has single-digit hours on it. I mean, I don't believe for a minute that it's accurate, but would be cool.

[Myself]

The Polaris mfd displays can be reset.

[pascoea]

Yeah, I have to assumed that's what happened, either intentionally or otherwise.

[pascoea]

Hey all, figured it's about time to dig this project out of storage and start getting things back together.

I thought of a question, and couldn't find the answer anywhere in the manuals: How the heck to do you "align" the jugs on these triple pipe machines? I know on the 750 I did, the manual wanted you to bolt down the exhaust manifold before installing/torqueing down the jugs to keep everything in line. Is that not a consideration, giving there isn't a manifold that needs to be kept in-line?

Also, as a goof, I made this tool to remove the coupler from a donor engine. I was pleasantly surprised with how well it worked. I cut the coupler end of the drive shaft off, cut the end off a 1/2" extension, and did some "welding". (I am not a welder, by any stretch.) I assume you wouldn't want to use an impact, and ignoring how it's likely a bad idea to trust my welding skills next to a big-ass breaker bar, how dumb of an idea is this?

[casey67]

With the one peice exhaust manifold, it's important to have both surfaces flat/even inorder to seal.
Of cource that will not hurt with tripple exhaust head pipes. Any straight edge should be fine.

The 785 usually has a one peice head or head cover. Not a bad idea to make sure those bolts are atleast in place so they align easily.

[pascoea]

Yeah, Casey, that was kind of my thought as well, just wasn't sure. There's a ton of "slop" in the head bolts too, just feels wrong, lol. So just center it and ship it?

[xlint89]

It's best you have clean threads on the bolts and holes. I like to wire wheel and thread chase everything prior to install. Much better to get true torque specs. Place the jugs over the pistons and start the base nuts by hand. Install the 1 piece head and run the bolts by hand. If you really are meticulous, you can install the intake manifold as well. That should get everything in line. Then torque the cyl base nuts, You can then remove the head and intake if need be, or tighten then down to spec at that time too.

Coupler tool should work fine. I cut an old driveshaft at the thickest part of the shaft. Then ground "flats: on it until I was able to fit a socket over it.

[K447]

Are there not opposed flats on the driveshaft coupler?

They are there to put a big open end wrench on and torque the coupler loose.

Alternative is to use a chain or strap wrench wrapped around the outside of the coupler diameter.

Usually the tricky part is stuffing a rope down the PTO spark plug hole to hold the piston in place while twisting the coupler loose. Without letting the rope poke into the cylinder wall ports

[pascoea]

Are there not opposed flats on the driveshaft coupler?

They are there to put a big open end wrench on and torque the coupler loose.

Alternative is to use a chain or strap wrench wrapped around the outside of the coupler diameter.

Usually the tricky part is stuffing a rope down the PTO spark plug hole to hold the piston in place while twisting the coupler loose. Without letting the rope poke into the cylinder wall ports

All fair points. I've used a big-ass pipe wrench "successfully" before, it got the job done but marred up the coupler. I don't own a big enough wrench, nor a chain/strap wrench. Of course the best solution would be to buy one or both of those, but really I just made that tool out of curiosity and boredom. Every once in a while I like to pretend I know how to weld.