Tune out accel pump on 2001 Virage 700 to fix acceleration bog?

[Bluedmax]

car22car might have one available for you. It looks like he hasn't been on here in a year though. You can definitely get ahold of him on Facebook, as he is an active member of all of the Polaris watercraft related groups. His name is Mike Lang.

Thanks for the tip Ryan. That would be really helpful so I'll see if I can find him.

[Bluedmax]

Have you ever added seafoam in your fuel? If not, I'd give it a try as it will completely clean ALL of the fuel circuitry within the carb.

No I haven't but I've had everything apart now about a dozen times including the carb, drain the fuel tank, new fuel lines, running a temporary fuel supply direct to the carb to isolate the delivery system, disassembled the complete carb and spray every orface with carb cleaner. I see your point though of running that through the system in case there's something I missed. Thanks for the tip, it's worth a try.

[Bluedmax]

Did you check the intake gasket surface for flatness? I've found a couple of the Domestic 700's with warped surfaces.

Yes I have. In fact the carb had come loose years ago. I had tightened it back down using loctite and been running fine for years. Only have I recently noticed some wear on both the intake and carb mounting surfaces, which I'm thinking happened when it was loose and vibrating . Like I said it's been running fine until I put the new SBT engine in, but just in case, I ordered a good used replacement manifold off ebay and surfaced the carb. The mounting surfaces have been verified with a straight edge and are for sure good now. I'm just wondering if something happened to the carb internally (like an unseen internal crack mentioned above) that coincidentally got worse during the new engine swap. Hard to believe but that's why I was considering trying to find a different carb to try.

[Myself]

Through the years I HAVE had a couple carbs that simply WOULD NOT tune. I ended up trying another carb and all was good in the world. I'm betting a flaw in the flow during the casting process could probably turn into a hairline crack after a bunch of heat/cool cycles.

[Bluedmax]

It's just so frustrating we've had this ski since new (20+ years) and had no problems until I installed the new engine. If it's the carb, it would be a total coincidence.

[K447]

It is entirely possible that something else is going on at the same time. Do not assume the only change was the engine swap, or that the only problem cause is the carbs.

Check all the basics, including actual ignition timing.

Correct spark plugs installed.? Perhaps install another known good set of spark plugs.
Sometimes new spark plugs are bad right out of the box, sometimes they xan be counterfeit.

Check ignition coil ohms. Check ignition wire ohms, Check plug wire ends. And so on.

Recheck for air leaks in the air intake/carb system.
More work, but sometimes the engine itself has an air leak.

[Bluedmax]

Thanks K447. I've thought the same thing and have done the following...

Ignition timing - I transferred everything over to the new engine as it. Not sure how timing would change as the shaft / balancer is keyed and nothing moved. I could double check it but would need to learn how to.

I've tried multiple sets of spark plugs (BPR8ES), both old and new.

I've performed the ignition coil test (which I reported on a separate post). Manual says reading should be 0.35 and I measured 0.50. Never received a reply if this is ok or not??

I replaced both complete wires (SBT).

I've checked for engine air leaks (both pressure and vacuum) by plugging off the intake manifold on one end and exhaust pipe outlet on the other end. Had a "slight" leak under pressure only at front housing gasket but have since resealed and no improvement to the issue. The retest with manifolds holds both pressure and vacuum no problem now.

I appreciate the ideas, keep them coming if you have more...

[TxVirageTx]

The accel pump circuit works like this,the nozzle check ball prevent air from being drawn in that way when the chamber fills,the chamber check ball stops gas from being pushed out that direction.I use to remove the plastic check ball from the metering block chamber with a steel one,fixed a lot of them that way

[Bluedmax]

Thanks TX. I saw one of your older posts and took the circuit apart during the winter to check everything out. Also installed the metal check ball as you mentioned just in case. At first I thought I made it worse because it wasn’t squirting, then got it to work after “priming” it with several pumps.

[Bluedmax]

I should clarify it was working before I took it apart but thought it was taking too much of a squeeze with the throttle before it would actually squirt (like 3/4 to full throttle to make it squirt). After going through the circuit and putting it back together, it still performed the same. So I’m guess 3/4 to full throttle squeeze is normal to make it squirt.

[TxVirageTx]

The brass nozzle check ball not sealing will cause that issue,I had a ton of old carbs and would just replace the entire brass squirter.had to do that on a brand new never run set

[Bluedmax]

TX, here's a couple videos I took of the accel spray (hopefully the links still work).
This one the ski is on the trailer and obviously the engine is off... https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UJlEDyKbIsk
This one is with the ski running in the water (which is why it's hard to keep the camera steady and do everything at the same time)... https://youtube.com/shorts/Oj6PP_Plm9s?feature=share
Do either of these help to tell if the spray is normal or not?
Do you happen to know where I could find a good used carb to either try or buy? Ebay is expensive for an unknown part and seems like a crap shoot. Beernutz suggested above car22car might have something available but I'm struggling to find him.

[HiPeRcO]

If you're on Facebook, this is his profile.

Mike Lang | Facebook

I've summoned Mike to this thread.

[car22car]

TX, here's a couple videos I took of the accel spray (hopefully the links still work).
This one the ski is on the trailer and obviously the engine is off... https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UJlEDyKbIsk
This one is with the ski running in the water (which is why it's hard to keep the camera steady and do everything at the same time)... https://youtube.com/shorts/Oj6PP_Plm9s?feature=share
Do either of these help to tell if the spray is normal or not?
Do you happen to know where I could find a good used carb to either try or buy? Ebay is expensive for an unknown part and seems like a crap shoot. Beernutz suggested above car22car might have something available but I'm struggling to find him.

Could you send the videos again I do not see them. I'll see if I can help out. I have had very good luck using the dual carbs with accelerator pump from the older slt sl 700s. Very responsive. No jetting changes. I may have a set, let me take a look tomarrow.

[Bluedmax]

Thank you very much Ryan!