Driveline/Propulsion

[beerdart]

pdf For above.

.

[beerdart]

Stock Polaris Impellers

Stock Polaris Impeller Part Numbers and Pitches.

[beerdart]

Impeller Pitch Gauge

Impeller Pitch Gauge (Angles) Printable

[beerdart]

Pump Stator Bearings and Seal Numbers

Polaris Pump Stator Bearings and Seal Numbers 1994 Thru 2004

Bearing 6304 20mm X 52mm X 15mm Wide Double sealed
Seal 30mm X 55mm x 7mm Wide with stainless spring Lip style A

[beerdart]

Engine Alignment.

[Keddano]

figuring wedge angle

I can't find the post were someone wanted to know what angle wedges they had. Here is a easy to use Trig. calculator. Just put in any two variables (length and height) and you'll have the angle. Dan

http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html

[dorf]

Driveline/Propulsion

Polaris 1993-2001 Trim Motor- Troubleshoot/Replace/Repair Info.


The following information is offered from knowledge I recently gleaned from a recent in- operatable trim situation.

The MFD (gage) was showing that the Trim was working, but I discovered that it was not.
Disconnect the Battery !


The motor is controlled by two wires coming from the Electrical Box.

Open the Electrical Box. Chances you will find corrosion on some or all of the terminals. Naturally that needs to be addressed. I cleaned mine first by scraping and then using a solution of Baking Soda/Water and then cleaned with water and left to dry. Then followed by Dielectric Grease.

Removing the wires completely form the Electrical Box is difficult, due to the way that they are clamped and secured. But it is straight forward if you take your time.

Using an external battery, connect the trim wires to the battery. The trim motor should run. Then switch position of the wires and the motor should run the other direction. Check to see if the Nozzle is actually moving Up and Down.

If the motor runs in both directions, then the problem is elsewhere in the control system.

Remove the Trim Motor Assembly. Checking a parts diagram (www.partsland.com) it will remove easily after disconnecting the nuts, nozzle, rubber hoses etc. A Clymer Manual will help immensely.

Should you purchase a used one? I would suggest not. You will end up with exactly what you have now. I would suggest repair. A new motor is $120.00.(Mine was extremely corroded) Sort of Expensive but at least they are still available. As well as all of the attaching parts. Be sure to replace seals as necessary, etc.

It is important that you pay attention to the terminals and which wires are attached to which connection or when you assemble everything (chances are) the motor will run in an opposite direction, as to what the MFD shows. Then you will have to switch position of the wires on the motor.

I thought that the Spring/Pin/Collar Assembly had to be ÔÇ£indexedÔÇØ for proper operation but I discovered that the motor runs until it reaches an Up or Down stop and just ratchets at that max position. So it guess it is important that when the MFD shows Full Up or Down Stop pushing on the Trim Button(while riding) as it will continue snapping, if you don't.

Hope this helps someone.

[CrazyA]

Stubshaft and Impeller Thread and Pitch

I recently needed to "chase" the threads on an impeller and stubshaft.

The thread size/pitch is

16mm X 1.50

[K447]

Part numbers and sources for Polaris drive shaft through-hull bearing and seals

The following is copied from this thread, which has further details and part cross references for the Polaris through-hull bearing assembly (does not apply to the MSX bearing carrier);
i need pump rebuild kit and thru hull bearings and seals


3610040 - Polaris part number for seals in the through-hull assembly (two required)

Note: Polaris does not list a separate part number for the pressed in bushing inside the bearing assembly.
Edit: Apparently they do, at least for the 2001 SLX;
Non-MSX through-hull bearing assembly;

• Shaft internal bushing, Polaris 3576514 (two required)
• Shaft seals, Polaris 3610040 (two required)

You can find the generic/aftermarket information for replacing this bushing below.

... Imprinted onto it in small print is 14DU06 and in larger print is 9608...

Does it have a split line across the side of the bearing?
I suspect 9608 is a manufacturing date code.

14DU06 seems to be a DU Self-Lubricating metal-polymer plain bearing with installed "7/8 inch" inside diameter of .8743/.8775 and outer diameter of 1 inch (nominal).

This old thread says

Are you talking about the part #15 referred to as a "bearing" which is actually a stainless/copper alloy, teflon permeated, split bushing for $3.15 each?...

GG Bearings describes their DU bearings as;
Backing Steel
Innerstructure Porous copper-tin bronze
Bearing Surface PTFE / Lead

DU bearings combine the advantages of many conventionally lubricated, metallic plain bearingsÔÇöparticularly high load capacity and dimensional rigidityÔÇöwith the design freedoms of self-lubricating materials, including the ability to operate successfully well beyond the scope of conventional lubricants.

The material: a steel backed composite
The key to the remarkable performance capabilities of DU is its unique method of manufacture. By employing the unique method of sintering and mechanical interlocking by impregnation, DU bearings eliminate the problems of temperature and aging faced by bonded films and fabrics.

In addition, the polymeric self-lubricating material in the DU structure does not have to provide structural support. Furthermore, the metal components provide maximum heat dissipation. The photomicrograph above (Figure 1-1) shows the three main elements that make up this composite:

1. Steel backing
This steel backing gives DU its exceptionally high load carrying capacity; thin, compact design; excellent heat dissipation; and dimensional and structural rigidity.

2. Porous bronze innerstructure
This comprises a nominal 0.010 inch (0.25 mm) thick layer of carefully sized bearing quality bronze powder which is sintered onto the steel backing. This porous structure is impregnated with a homogeneous mixture of PTFE (polytetrafluoro-ethylene) and lead. In addition to providing maximum thermal conductivity away from the bearing surface, this unique bronze innerstructure also serves as a reservoir for the PTFE-lead mixture.

DU?« is the highest performance self-lubricating bearing material available anywhere. It offers a combination of properties and capabilities unmatched by any other self-lubricating bearing material and, consequently, has the broadest
application range.

3. PTFE-lead overlay
This low friction overlay, approximately 0.001 inch (0.025 mm) thick, provides an excellent initial transfer film which effectively coats the mating surface of the bearing assembly, forming an oxide type solid lubricant film. As this film is depleted, the relative motion of the mating surface continues to draw material from the porous bronze layer.

When conditions are severe, the feed of lubrication is increased. The peaks of porous bronze coming in contact with the mating surface generate localized heat and, due to the high thermal expansion rate of the PTFE, force additional lubricant to the bearing surface. The relative motion of the mating parts wipes the lubricant over the interface, continuously restoring the low friction surface film.

Seems like a much better bearing than plain brass for running a PWC drive shaft

...

Just bought my kits from Randy. Part #11 for the rebuild kit

That's a great price if you ask me....

http://weberpower.com/weber-jet-prop...ing-parts.html

Agreed

Item 11, Weber part number 103690, Repair Kit Seal Driveshaft $19.76



My understanding is that the Weber 103690 kit is for the non-MSX through-hull bearing assembly.

I don't know whether Weber also has something for the MSX style through-hull bearing carrier. Even though the Weber engine only appeared in the Polaris MSX 110 and MSX 150 models.