Polaris PWC wiring colors - what each wire color is used for, Fuji and domestic

[K447]

...looking for picture inside the box explaining colour and what its for

...wanted to know why it was like that i was thinking it had been bodged up...

Not sure what exactly you are looking for

Polaris PWC use a deliberate and fairly straightforward wire coloring system. It works quite well overall, with only a few changes needed from 1992 through to 2004.

As with most things in life, there were a few things that over time were shown to be less than ideal. This is why we now have a handful of service bulletins and wiring changes.

Not every change applies to every model. In some cases the factory switched over to the revised method, in other cases the older models just didn't have that feature or problem.

If you review the wiring diagrams for various models you will see there is consistent use of certain wire colors for specific things. Also, the terminal board is clearly marked with which wire color connects to which terminal. Only in a couple of cases does the wire color not directly match with the terminal markings.

Note: For the Ficht fuel injected models some of these wire colors were re-purposed, and a bunch of new wire colors were added.

The core wire colors used in Polaris PWC are as follows

Black -> Ground = Battery negative = Electrical box ground = Engine block = Stator/magneto ground connection

Notes
Thin Black wires routing variations. Fuji engines and original 1996-1999 domestic engines have a thin Black wire directly between battery negative and electrical box.

If electrical box shell is allowed to contact battery positive post (usually because the plastic battery cover is missing) then the thin Black wire can be damaged/burned.

Updated and later year domestic engines rely on the stator ground wire and stator mounting bolt to provide engine ground to the electrical box. A short from the electrical box shell to battery positive post can damage/burn the Black ground wire inside the wire bundle going to the stator.

Red -> Battery positive direct connection before fuse or circuit breaker/Reset button
Also heavy red cable that delivers battery power via solenoid to starter (only during engine cranking)

Red/Purple -> Battery positive voltage after fuse or circuit breaker

Yellow -> stator charging coil connection to LR voltage regulator. Also RPM signal to tachometer, MFD display

Black/Yellow -> Ignition kill signal to CDI (grounding Black/Yellow shuts down the ignition and turns the engine off)

Note: CDI will shut engine down completely even if ground signal on Black/Yellow is only momentary contact.

Tan (beige, light brown) -> Engine overheat sensor, also RPM limit signal on some models

Orange -> Switched voltage output from LR module. Senses engine rotation from Yellow wire and supplies battery voltage to Orange wire. Turns off Orange wire power when engine stops spinning

Yellow/Red -> Engine crank signal from Start switch to starter solenoid.
Note: The start switch only gets the engine cranking. The CDI independently sees the engine cranking directly from the magneto voltages coming into the CDI. The start circuit itself does not involve the CDI.

Black/White -> CDI ignition pulse to ignition coil. Actual coil connections wired differently on Fuji, original domestic twin and updated two cylinder domestic engines

Blue - Oil level sender. This was a simple float switch to an alarm on early models, later on it is a variable resistance to display the tank oil level (240 ohms = empty, 33 ohms - full)

Pink - Fuel level sender. Variable resistance to display the tank fuel level (240 ohms = empty, 33 ohms - full)

Note: Fuel tank gauges feed a special low voltage signal to the sender to prevent possible sparks from igniting the gasoline. It is not 12 volts.

Red/White -> On models without MFD this was a special low voltage feed for the fuel gauge and fuel level sender (LR-52 module)

Blue/White and Green/White -> Polaris 'Quick Trim' electric trim. Trim switch applies 12 volts with one polarity for trim down, the opposite polarity for trim up. On models with MFD the display watches the voltage polarity on these two wires to know when and which way to move the trim display indicator.

Gray, Grey -> RPM limiter signal used on some models. Gray wire tells CDI to limit RPM. Exact RPM level during limiting mode varies with model and year, typically 3500 to 4500 RPM.

Note: On some models the Tan wire directly feeds the CDI gray wire. On other models the gray wire signal goes through one of the LR modules.

Note: Not to be confused with the gray Hall Effect wire that connects CDI directly to Stator wire bundle. There are a bunch of colored wires that connect the CDI directly to the magneto stator. The actual connections or function each color is used for depends on the version of the ignition system.

Note: The very early year Fuji ignitions are known as 'analog', the later version is known as the 'digital' Fuji ignition. There is limited interchangeability between the 'analog' and 'digital' Fuji stators and CDI.

See also; How to test CDI, Magneto stator coils & Ignition coils on Fuji engines


Fuji (except Pro 785?) these CDI/stator wire colors;
Blue/Red -
Green/Red -
Red/White -
Green/White -
White/Yellow -
Orange -
Green -
Black/Yellow - Ignition kill switch

The domestic (red) engines use these CDI/stator wire colors;
See also; How do I test old and new domestic red engine CDI, Magneto and Ignition coils?
Brown - 8 volt power from CDI to Hall Effect sensors
Green - Hall Effect sensor/ ignition trigger to CDI
Blue - Hall Effect sensor/ ignition trigger to CDI
Red - Hall Effect sensor/ ignition trigger to CDI
Gray - (Different function on original vs. Gen III and Upgraded CDI)
Purple - Magneto exciter coil AC voltage feed to CDI
Black - Ground (both to engine block via mounting bolt and to electrical box/CDI/ignition coils)