Above Forum Ads



No announcement yet.

Post Your Technical Information Here

This is a sticky topic.
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    Cooling Hose SL750

    Welcome to the Hulk!
    I assume you removed the t'stat and or the bypass plunger so you can flush the engine? Also, I don't know if you know it or not, but shutting off the pvc ball valve will not cut off water supply when towing.


    • #47
      Originally posted by Superd2K View Post
      ...Also, I "teed" into the line running to the cooling rail, installed a ball valve on one end, and a hose bib and quick-connect at the tee. It makes running it on the garden hose a piece of cake.

      The Gates hose number is 22537

      Is that the cooling water inlet hose, or the water exit hose?

      I am not so familiar with the Fuji cooling hoses, but that looks like it could be the water exit hose from the engine.

      Looks like that valve assembly has some weight. Keep in mind when the hull is bouncing over the waves, that things need to be strapped down to prevent failures.
      How to post your question, AFTER you have done your homework
      Asking for help via Private Message?
      For Ficht EMM Repairs, contact Lakeside Tech
      Yamaha NanoXcel hull repair info
      Polaris PWC useful info


      • #48
        95 SL 750 Hull thickness

        Guys have asked, and today I have confirmed the thickness of the SL hull.

        It is 3/8" thick on the bottom

        And 1/4" thick on the sides with no sponsons
        My ski says made in the U.S.A...... Can yours say that???


        • #49
          How to replace the 148mm Jet Pump bearings and seals using the Oven & Freezer method

          Originally posted by dorf View Post
          '95 SL 750, How to Do a Jet Pump Bearing/Seal Replacement

          Replacing the bearings and seals is pretty straightforward job if you have the proper tools.

          After removing the pump assembly from the ski, disassemble far enough to get the rear cone off. Put it in a vise, and using the special tool (about $10.00) remove the impeller, (cc/w).

          You can now punch out the bearings and seals by using about a 6-8 inch long punch (using a good size hammer). There is ample room to move the spacer around, it seems easier to go through the middle of it vs. the side of it to drive them out.

          Next de-grease and clean up the housing.

          Put it in an oven for about 45 minutes set at 200 degrees F.

          While this is heating, put the bearings in a freezer for about the same length of time.

          Now it is ready to assemble. Wear gloves. The cold bearings will almost slide into the hot stator with hand pressure; you might have to nudge with a hammer/socket (pushing on the outer race). Don't forget to install the spacer.

          When both bearings are in let it cool for a while. Insert the first forward seal (socket/hammer on out side edges of seal) pack marine grease in the cavity (between the seals) and install the next seal.

          Installing the impeller requires the special tool and a torque wrench that go to 100 foot-pounds.

          Assemble the rest with all new seals.

          Total cost for this project was around $100.00(using all Polaris seals/bearings)
          I recently wrote this up for someone else and though it might be helpful to post it here as a supplement to dorf's excellent original post.

          Note: Additional information can be found at Jet Pump Maintenance and Service

          You will need the Polaris impeller removal tool. Overtons is selling them for $10, and other places are generally $15-$20.

          You do not need a press to change the jet pump bearings.

          You will need two new bearings, two new oil seals. You may also need new o-rings and a new flat tailcone seal.

          Start by removing the tail cone. Hold the flats of the stub shaft rear end in a vice or large wrench, and unscrew the impeller. It will be very tight.

          With the impeller removed, slide out the stub shaft. Pry the old seals out from the front of the stator.

          Carefully remove the large o-ring from the stator groove behind the rear bearing. Inspect the o-ring for damage or distortion. If it is not in good condition, replace with a new o-ring.

          Slide the internal spacer aside as needed, and use a steel punch tool to reach through and drive the bearing out from the far side of the stator. Tap the outer bearing race a little on one side, then the other, and work it out.

          Once you have tapped out both bearings, make sure the stator bores are smooth and free of burrs. Clean off any old grease, and inspect stator for damage.

          Use the freezer and oven method to install the new bearings. Put the bearings in the freezer for about an hour. Heat the stator in a 200F oven at the same time.

          Use gloves to handle the hot stator. Put the stator on a stable and heat resistant surface. The cold bearing will now drop right into the stator.

          Put one bearing in, tap it gently around the outer edge to be sure it is seated. Never apply pressure or tap on the inner race of the bearing, just the outer section. Let it warm up enough to expand and become snug in place.

          Then flip the stator over, put the spacer back in, and drop the other bearing in. Tap around the edges to seat bearing.

          Allow the stator to cool to room temperature. Make sure the inner spacer is just able to slide around, but it should not rattle end to end, nor be binding between the two bearings.

          Tap the new front oil seals into place. Both seal lips and garter springs should be facing outwards. Press the seals in so the front seal is 1/8" beyond the bore chamfer.

          Install the large o-ring into the groove in the stator rear bore. Lightly grease it.

          Put some marine waterproof grease behind the inner seal, and between the two seals. Grease and gently work the short impeller spacer through the two seals so it seats on the front bearing.

          When you install the stub shaft, make sure the two o-rings on the stub shaft are in good condition. Lightly grease the o-rings, then side the stub shaft through. Be sure the front bearing does not get pushed out of position, and the short spacer is still nicely seated in the seal lips.

          Now you can put the flats of the stub shaft into your vice or large wrench, and torque the impeller to 100ft-lbs.

          Note: In the early years, Polaris recommended greasing the threads on the stub shaft. In later years, the recommendation is Blue 242 Loctite, which is what I use.

          Check that the impeller now spins smoothly without any binding or tight spots, and there is no grinding.

          If you have a recent year jet pump (2001-2004), then it will have Polaris Tail cone flat gasket/seal 5811984 that sits between the tail cone and the stator flat rear surface.

          This extra flat gasket can be retro-fitted to any year 148mm jet pump. It provides an additional seal against water getting into the rear pump bearing. If you are ordering parts from Polaris, add this to your list.

          Inspect the tail cone for hairline cracks. Make sure the round surface where it will seal to the o-ring is in perfect condition, with no damage, nicks or burs.

          Lightly grease the tail cone and slide it into place. Snug up the three screws, but do not over torque. Use blue Loctite to keep the screws from working loose.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by K447; 04-21-2011, 11:34 AM.
          How to post your question, AFTER you have done your homework
          Asking for help via Private Message?
          For Ficht EMM Repairs, contact Lakeside Tech
          Yamaha NanoXcel hull repair info
          Polaris PWC useful info


          • #50
            Search John Zigler, he owns a small shop and is a super great guy with decent prices.


            • #51
              Originally posted by PolarisNut View Post

              700 SL 96 Dual Keihin 38/32
              SL 97 Single Keihin 40/32
              SL-Dlx 97 Dual Keihin 38/32
              SLH 98 Dual Keihin 38/33
              SLH 99-00 Dual Keihin 40/35
              SLH 01 Single Keihin 40/35
              SLT 96 Dual Keihin 38/32
              SLT 97 Dual Keihin 38/32
              SLTH 98-99 Dual Keihin 38/33
              Hurricane 96-97 Dual Keihin 38/34
              Virage 00-03 Single Keihin 40/35
              Freedom 02-03 Single Keihin 40/35
              what about 04?
              First Ski to me ever 7/18/12: 2004 Polaris Virage 700cc so far stock Build thread http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=182997
              1996 Sea-doo Sp 580cc: restoration/build thread http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=198909


              • #52
                Non-OEM Replacement for Polaris Temp / Low Oil Warning Buzzer for early Fuji models

                Had to find a replacement buzzer for a project I am working on. This unit bolts right into the stock location, has a sealed back, and has screw terminals for attachment. Has terminals for constant and pulse tones.

                Radio Shack
                80dB Piezo Pulse Buzzer
                Model: 273-68 | Catalog #: 273-068

                Click image for larger version

Name:	pRS1C-2265135w345.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	6.1 KB
ID:	4854496

                The Shack Is Back! Shop Radios, Headphones, TV Antennas, Cables & Adapters, DIY Tools & Parts, Electronics Maker Kits, and much more brand new arrivals daily! Don't forget to visit any of our 450+ RadioShack locations across America!
                Last edited by K447; 04-30-2013, 09:07 AM.
                1994 Polaris SLT 750 (Reed Spacers, Trim, 035 Impeller) 47.5 MPH GPS @ 6280 RPM
                1994 Polaris SLT 750 (Bone stock. 57.9 MPH GPS @ 6780 RPM)
                ---------> CLICK HERE FOR A LIST OF AVAILABLE PARTS!
                1989 Bayliner Capri 1950 (Mothership)
                Saving the planet one Polaris at a time..