Rebuild a Polaris metal Fuel Selector Valve, new o-ring

[K447]

Note: The recommended alternative to rebuilding your old metal body valve is to install a brand new replacement, such as this one.

A new fuel valve should be completely reliable. A rebuilt metal valve may or may not be 100% since you are reusing the old rubber valve insert. The new o-ring may not seal perfectly in the old valve body. COnsider the cost of a new valve compared to the risk of engine damage or difficult carb turning caused by a poorly functioning fuel valve.

The fuel selector valve provides several functions.

It is primarily a safety feature and should not be deleted. If the fuel tank air pressure relief check valve sticks closed the excessive fuel tank pressure on a warm day can force fuel past the carburetor seats and flood the engine with liquid fuel. Not only is this a fire and explosion risk but the liquid gasoline can hydraulically lock the engine when you next attempt to start it. Hydro lock can damage the engine internally.

If your model has a three position (7052063 ) fuel selector knob with On - OFF - Reserve settings then the selector valve provides a method of warning you when the fuel tank is getting low (using the ON setting). The engine will run poorly or even stall when the fuel level drops too low. This is your hint to switch to the Reserve setting and head back to the dock for more fuel.

Models with two position (7052151, 7052166) fuel selectors use the display MFD or MFI to warn of Low Fuel. There is no Reserve setting, just ON and OFF.

Since the entire fuel supply is under suction from the tank to the fuel pump inlet it is important that the fuel selector valve be air tight. If the valve leaks air into the fuel supply then the fuel pressure and fuel volume delivered to the carburetors is reduced. Reducing the fuel delivery to the carburetors is a recipe for lean burn and engine damage.

The most common place for air leaks is at the 0-ring that seals the valve shaft into the valve body. Here is the method for removing the old o-ring, cleaning the selector valve and rebuilding it with a fresh o-ring.


This fuel selector valve is ready to be re-assembled. Internally clean, lubricated with 2-stroke oil, new o-ring installed.


The actual 'valve' is this rubber end piece which aligns with the hole in the side of the shaft. When you turn the valve knob the metal shaft aligns with one rubber hole, the other hole, or in between. In between is the OFF valve position.

Note the scratches on the metal valve body. These are from metal burrs around the 3mm retaining screw threaded hole when the valve core was wiggled out.
You can clearly see the semi-circular groove where the retaining screw engages the valve core to keep it in place.


Down inside the valve body are two metal ridges which align with the rubber piece. Typically the rubber piece may be stuck down in there. It is fragile and not available as a separate part. If it will not come out easily without damaging it, just leave it in there and clean things as best you can.


The old o-ring is on top, the new one below.


Notice the cracks in the old o-ring, on the left.

As a new replacement I used a slightly smaller and thicker o-ring than OEM
70 Buna-N, Size AS568A-011
McMaster-Carr 9452K19

There may be a more exact fit Metric o-ring size. I shall update when/if I find one.

[K447]

Make sure the threads on both the small retaining screw and the hole are clean and not munged up. Small screw is metric 3mm x 0.5mm thread.
I ran a 3mm thread tap through the hole, then cleaned up any burrs on the inside. Don't scratch the inner walls of the valve, but do make sure it is clean and smooth in there.


A second valve I took apart has the threads near the tip of the retaining screw trimmed away. This would provide a smoother surface for the retaining ledge of the knob shaft to rub against.



Note the orientation of the semi-circular cut-out where the retaining screw will fit into. Do not install the valve shaft backwards or the valve will not turn properly once the retaining screw is installed.
The screw is just loosely threaded in a couple of turns in this photo.


The screw for the knob is metric 4mm x 0.7mm thread, with a stainless steel washer underneath the head.

[K447]

Don't forget to clean inside the nipple fittings!
Tip: clean these before you reassemble the valve

Cleanliness is critical throughout the fuel system. Even small amounts of grit and gunk can plug up the tiny mesh filters inside the carburetors or clog the small passageways and jets in the carburetors.


A typical Polaris fuel selector valve, internally cleaned and rebuilt with a new o-ring, assembled and ready for installation.
Note that the ON position is to the Right, Reserve would be to the far Left. OFF would be knob pointed straight up, half way between the left and right stops.

Always install new fuel hoses when you rebuild the fuel system, and especially if the fuel lines are original or more than a couple of years old. Use high quality fuel hose, preferably the reinforced rubber or Marine grade fuel line.

In general the thin walled 'clear' plastic fuel hose does not last long and tends to harden with time. Even a year or two may be enough time to need replacing them, again.

[BlueFishCrisis]

Nice!

[K447]

There are at least three variations of the knob for the fuel selector valves.

See the next post for the version with a rectangular knob grip.

Triangle shaped knob with two flat sides on the shaft (5432626) used in 1997 (only?) with the metal body fuel selector valve.


Triangle shaped knob with one flat side on the shaft. This one is from a plastic valve with nipples oriented 180 degrees apart.


Plastic valve with 180 degree opposing nipples.

[K447]

This is an example of why rebuilding the old fuel selector valve may not work well.

The rubber is not only hardened with age and feels inflexible, it also has cracks. This is simply not going to seal well and risks crumbling apart and allowing dried rubber bits to flow towards the carburetors.



Inspect your old fuel valve carefully during the rebuild. If you find issues like this, or other degradation, replace it with new.

Related note: If the valve does not internally seal and isolate the Reserve feed from the Main fuel inlet, this may not seem to be a problem. When both fuel pickups are submerged in liquid fuel, air cannot be drawn in and the fuel pump suction gets liquid fuel.

However, consider when the valve is set to Reserve position and the fuel level in the tank is below the Main fuel pickup (which is probably why you selected the Reserve position). The Main inlet is now exposed to air inside the fuel tank. If the selector valve allows suction from the fuel pump Reserve side to leak through the valve to the Main inlet then air bubbles may be drawn into the 'Reserve' fuel feed.


For reference, here is a fuel knob with rectangular grip.

[Hagarules]

Thank You for this thread.
Today I did mine and found a sheared o-ring.

I have the rectangle grip as shown above.

here is mine, I replaced fuel line in pic too.

Now I hear pressure release when gas cap is loosened

[Dragster5408]

do you really need this valve? just keep an eye on your gauge and put an inline shut off valve for trailering. eliminate a possible failure point.

[K447]

do you really need this valve? just keep an eye on your gauge and put an inline shut off valve for trailering. eliminate a possible failure point.

Well, if you are going to install a replacement fuel shut-off valve, why not install one that fits the OEM location?

The factory location does not require seat removal to access. This makes it easy to verify the valve is on or off, and easy to turn it off when stopped at a beach or similar.

Not just for trailering, my recommendation is to turn the fuel selector valve off every time the machine is going to be sitting for more than a few minutes. This ensures that sun heating of the fuel tank cannot force liquid gasoline through the carbs and flood the engine.

Yes, the fuel tank is supposed to have an air pressure relief vent check valve. Sometimes the check valve does not vent at the factory specified pressure (these little rubber valves are often original and over twenty years old now) so the fuel tank air pressure can potentially rise higher than the carbs can resist.

[Dragster5408]

good point!!

[waterpest]

Digging up an old post here... does anybody have a part number for a fuel selector valve without the reserve, that is a two positions valve?...to fit 1996 slt 780?

[K447]

... part number for a fuel selector valve without the reserve, that is a two positions valve?...to fit 1996 slt 780?

Have a look in here.

http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl.com/first-things-to-do

Somewhere there is a link about a (Seadoo?) fuel selector (on/off) valve that can be made to work.

I think Watcon sells a replacement valve.

[ripcuda]

I've bought a few of the aftermarket Seadoo fuel selector valves off fleabay. They do work... and are a direct replacement... but they are no-where near the quality as the OEM one (go figure).
In one instance, I only got 2 years out of an aftermarket one before it started sucking air. I was disappointed to say the least. YMMV.

Cheers!

[waterpest]

Thx K447, I found a link for the three position valve but not the two position. Some here just cap off the RES fitting. I am going to keep looking, Watcon only has the 3 position valve. I found this 2 position valve on ebay but shipping to Canada is BRUTAL....


WSM 2 Position Fuel Valve PWC 006-603



https://www.ebay.ca/itm/WSM-Polaris-700-1200-2-Position-Fuel-Valve-OEM-7052159-PWC-006-603/201389125883?hash=item2ee3ba30fb:g:UbkAAOSwT6pV1bG X&vxp=mtr

Edit: I found the same one (006-603) available from Winners Circle Motorsports in Markham Ontario Canada....for under $23 Cdn, shipping around $7

Have a look in here.

http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl.com/first-things-to-do

Somewhere there is a link about a (Seadoo?) fuel selector (on/off) valve that can be made to work.

I think Watcon sells a replacement valve.

[waterpest]

So ripcuda you replace the selector every 2 years??

I've bought a few of the aftermarket Seadoo fuel selector valves off fleabay. They do work... and are a direct replacement... but they are no-where near the quality as the OEM one (go figure).
In one instance, I only got 2 years out of an aftermarket one before it started sucking air. I was disappointed to say the least. YMMV.

Cheers!