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Alternative Direct Injection Fuel Pressure Regulator Reinforcement

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  • Alternative Direct Injection Fuel Pressure Regulator Reinforcement

    I've been working on my 2020/2021 winter project PWC, a 2003 Virage i. Upon removing the fuel canister and visually inspecting the fuel pressure regulator (FPR), I thought I had received a "free one", as a previous service had performed the preferred "hose barb" reinforcement. After cleaning the tank, checking the pump intake screen and canister filters, and bench testing fuel pump current draw and fuel pressure; I began to re-install the canister. While installing the canister, I removed it to re-seat the canister neck seal. Upon doing do, I noticed the FPR had fallen out and was loose inside the canister! A closer inspection found whoever had performed the hose barb reinforcement had done a poor job of tapping the nylon head piece and virtually all of the threads were stripped.



    As no good deed goes unpunished, I had utilized all the salvaged nylon canister head pieces I had helping other folks out. So I devised an alternative method of reinforcing the FPR by re-locating it to the unused port in the canister top. I would do so by installing a threaded brass bulkhead fitting into the port plug and then installing the appropriate barb fittings into the bulkhead fitting. The bill of materials:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JGH75HF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BZ9RTKC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The bulkhead fitting requires a 13/16" mounting hole. I chose to utilize a knockout punch rather than a hole saw as neither the bulkhead fitting or the nylon canister plug will tolerate much slop in the mounting hole---that could result in a leak. Hole saws typically have some runout and the teeth tend to create a ragged chamfer around the perimeter of the hole.





    The bulkhead 1/4" internal pipe thread opening was tapered. As such, the open end of the bulkhead would only accept one or two threads of the right angle barb fitting. I ran a 1/4" NPT tap into the open end of the bulkhead to provide a reverse taper on that end which would allow the right angle barb fitting to be be fully seated.



    Next, I installed the pressure regulator side hose barb into the bulkhead fitting. I utilized a liquid thread sealant, that I commonly utilize on hydraulic fittings, as fragments from Teflon tape or conventional pipe dope could easily restrict or plug the intake screen of the fuel pump.



    I secured the bulkhead fitting nut just snugly enough for the rubber sealing washers to seal, but not be deformed. I also applied Loctite to the bulkhead threads. I followed this with installing the right angle hose barb fitting into the top of the bulkhead fitting, again utilizing liquid thread sealant.



    The FPR was attached utilizing stainless Oetiker hose clamps.



    The canister was re-installed into the fuel tank and the fuel lines connected. I will not have the opportunity to fully test this until next summer, but I'm not anticipating any issues.

    Attached Files
    Last edited by martincom; 12-11-2020, 01:44 PM.
    2*2004 MSX140
    1*2002 Virage i-sold
    7*2003 Virage I-sold
    4*2004 Virage I-sold
    1-2003 MSX140-sold
    2*2004 MSX150-sold
    1*2004 Virage I-salvage
    2*2003 MSX140-salvage

  • #2
    like!


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    • #3
      Nice work... I feel like we saw a very similar solution from another member a while back.

      Sure beats trying to cut clean thread in that nylon part. I really struggled with that.
      Oh NOOoooooo........ Not another 2 stroke triple!!!!!!

      Comment


      • #4
        Nice write up, who doesn't love pictures.

        Comment


        • #5
          What is the Orange 'goop' oozing from inside the end of the clamped fuel hose?
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          • #6
            It's more of a yellow. It is Valvoline X-All grease. I apply a coat to the hose barb to aide with seating the hose. It is especially helpful when installing 1/4" hose on a 5/16" barb---which also requires warming of the hose with a heat gun.

            To answer your next question, they are not the original fuel lines---they were hard as a rock. These hoses were from the water injection solenoid plumbing that I eliminated. They were still very pliable. I thoroughly flush them in the parts washer and re-utilize them as fuel lines.
            Last edited by martincom; 12-12-2020, 10:28 AM.
            2*2004 MSX140
            1*2002 Virage i-sold
            7*2003 Virage I-sold
            4*2004 Virage I-sold
            1-2003 MSX140-sold
            2*2004 MSX150-sold
            1*2004 Virage I-salvage
            2*2003 MSX140-salvage

            Comment


            • #7
              Nice work... I feel like we saw a very similar solution from another member a while back.
              Yes, I suggested it and provided the bill of materials to a member who had broke off the return line hose barb from the nylon head piece, last summer.

              I've also encountered a near identical configuration twice now---to the point I no longer believe it was an alternative repair, but an an alternative model of the canister from the manufacturer, Carter. It was where the repair concept idea originated.





              Attached Files
              2*2004 MSX140
              1*2002 Virage i-sold
              7*2003 Virage I-sold
              4*2004 Virage I-sold
              1-2003 MSX140-sold
              2*2004 MSX150-sold
              1*2004 Virage I-salvage
              2*2003 MSX140-salvage

              Comment


              • #8
                Stickied, thanks
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