On my SLH 700cc my MFD display "OUEr" and sometimes the red dot in the middle blinks?

[blister]

I have a rebuilt motor and new everything in electricity and now when I'm testing on sea it displays this on MFD "OUEr" sometimes the red light between the trim numbers blink and then stops and starts again.

When this comes Notting else is on the screen but if i press the buttons other functions come up for a sek and go away again.

On top of that if i drive semi fast not all throttle it will die down but i can start it right away up again (don't know if it's connected)

I took a pic and hope it comes up here

[K447]

I think that LCD display means Over Voltage.
The MFD thinks the power feed voltage is way too much.

The MFD may be in need of recalibration for voltage.
Or the MFD has failed internally.
Or the actual voltage from the electrical system is way too high.

http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=245421&p=2698510&viewfull=1#post2698510

More MFD info via this link.

http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl.com/first-things-to-do

http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl.com/multi-function-display

[blister]

If my CDI was high start but not the flywheel or verse vica could that cause this?

Because when I did rev it up and drive for few seconds it will completely shut down but i can crank it right up back though.

Or is it something like the other threads mention, the regulator gone bad?

[K447]

High Start and regular start flywheels will not affect the charging voltage, only the ignition base timing into the CDI.

LR voltage regulator module may have failed.

Use a digital multimeter to monitor the battery voltage right at the battery posts with engine running. As the engine revs the charging voltage into the battery should stay fairly consistent at about 13.5 to 14.x volts.

If the voltage measured at the battery exceeds about 15.5 volts at any time with engine running, it is much too high.

[blister]

Hi there, i switced out the voltage regulator and I'm still having the voltage go 15and up. Is it something between the stator and the CDI?

"Ignition base timing into the CDI." What does that actually mean? Can the CDI have wrongly built timing in it?

[K447]

- i switched out the voltage regulator and I'm still having the voltage go 15 and up.
Is it something between the stator and the CDI?

"Ignition base timing into the CDI." What does that actually mean? Can the CDI have wrongly built timing in it?

High battery charge voltage with engine running has nothing to do with ignition timing nor the CDI module.

Are you measuring the 15 volts with a digital multi-meter or using the dash MFD display voltage reading?

The MFD voltage reading can be incorrect if the MFD is not correctly calibrated.

If you are using a proper voltage meter and the voltage readings right at the battery posts are too high when engine is running, there are several possible causes. It is possible that all of the LR voltage regulator modules you have are faulty.

Incorrect grounding of the LR module to the engine crankcase can cause high voltage. Damaged wiring or incorrect connections can also cause weird results.


Polaris factory used flywheels with different base timing on some red carb engines. A few models and years came from the factory with a High Start flywheel. These are factory configured for an additional ten degrees of advance on the trigger signal sent to the CDI, compared to the 'regular' red engine carb flywheels.

The factory CDI that was supplied with these High Start engines was configured to correctly offset the 'extra ten degrees' of flywheel timing so that the actual timing inside the engine was consistent between regular flywheel equipped red carb engines and High Start flywheel equipped red carb engines.

So there are High Start flywheels with High Start CDI
And regular timing flywheels with regular timing CDI.

If High Start and regular parts are mixed then the actual ignition timing inside the engine can end up being ten degrees retarded or ten degrees over advanced. Neither is good for the engine.

On each flywheel are curved slots that allow the plastic timing ring (which holds the tiny magnet that actually does the triggering) to be advanced or retarded. Turns out that by moving the timing ring towards the maximum advance or retard along the curved slots the ring can be changed by about ten degrees.

A mismatched High Start and regular Start CDI+flywheel combo (whichever way they are mismatched) can be 'fixed' by loosening the timing ring and rotating it all the way forward or back, whichever is needed to get the actual igniting timing (as seen using a timing light) to be close to correct for your red engine timing specifications.

[blister]

Well again thank you for the answer.

If that mismatch happens i should know it by the engine running rough or is there any other indicator?

I mesured the voltage with a voltage meter at the battery, was hoping the MFD was faulty but unfortunatly its not. I bought the LR new from ebay but it ofc could be faulty but the used one i had use to be working before right so im estimating it might rater be something of mention connection of the ground. I dont remember this well but does a wire go straight from the LR to the crankcase for grounding?

Again thx fo all the help.

[blister]

Is there anywhere i can find informations about correct grounding for the LR?

[K447]

Is there anywhere i can find informations about correct grounding for the LR?

Plenty of info has been posted about grounding and how the ground path is constructed.

With battery positive cable disconnected, there should be zero ohms measured between the battery negative post and the metal tab on the LR module. Depending on the accuracy of the ohmmeter you use the meter reading may show 0.x ohms where x should be fairly small.

If the ohms measures 1.0 or more from LR tab to battery negative then further investigation is required. Ohm check each segment of the electrical path from the LR module 'ground' towards the engine and then to the battery negative cable.

Note that the engine crankcase is the canonical reference for all things electrical. That big chuck of metal is 'ground' and every other 'grounded' thing connects to that. Every thing that is supposed to be grounded should measure zero ohms connection to the engine case.