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I am sure most of this can be found by searching, but Ive put it all into one place.
Rotary Valve Timing
VTS info and repair.
Replacing Tempo fuel lines.
Seadoo History
Carb Reference
The easiest way to spot a BN carb is by the round diaphram cover on the side of the carb.
A BN has the jets and the fuel pump diaphram on the same side of the carb and it is a large round stack of parts with several screws holding it onto the side of the carbureator.
All SBN carbs have two covers. One on each side of the carbureator. one cover is over the fuel regulator diaphram, needle valve and jets. The other one covers the fuel pump components. These covers are square shaped and have 4 screws holding them onto the side of the carbureator.
Sea Doo used the 38mm BN carbs on all 1988-1991 587 powered models, both single and dual carb models. Sea Doo quit using the BN carbs when they built the 1992 models.
The SBN carb replaced the BN carbs. It is a much easier carb to tune and keep tuned. It was a vast improvement over the older BN carbs. The pwc slang term for the BN carbs is "round body". Thus named for the round diaphram cover on the side of the carb.
How to remove jet pump. Credit: Bill O'Neal WCM
Put a 2x4 across the back of the hull. This will become your "pump puller tool". Remove all four bolts from the nozzel and also the jetpump housing where it is attached to the hull.
Drill two holes through the 2x4 inline with two of the jetpump nozzel bolt holes.
Using 8mm x 1.25 pitch allthread, make two studs long enough to go from the jetpump through the 2x4, Use washers and nuts to tighten against the 2x4 and the jetpump will come out.
Of course you must first remove the three hoses attached to the jetpump at the rear inside of the transon., along with the steering cable at the nozzel end.
They used to use silicone to seal the pump to the hull ( very important that you have a great seal there ) Now, you can buy a neoprene seal from Sea Doo that sticks on and makes pulling pumps much easier down the road.
M=MAG, Front
C=Center
P=PTO, Rear
Stock Sea-Doo Carb Settings, all listed as turns out from seated:
1988-1990
All - Low Speed – 1 ?¢
High Speed – 0
1991
SP - Low Speed – 1 ?¢
High Speed – 0
GT - Low Speed – 1 1/8
High Speed – 1/4
XP - Low Speed – 1 1/4
High Speed – 1/4
1992
SP - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP/GTS/GTX - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1993
SP/SPi - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX/XP - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTS/GTX - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1994
SP/SPi/GTS - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX/XP/GTX - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1995
SP/SPi/GTS/GTX - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX - Low Speed – 1 1/8 +/- 1/8
High Speed – 0
XP/HX - Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP800 - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/8
High Speed – 0
1996
SP/SPi/SPX/GTS/GTi - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP/GSX/GTX - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
HX - Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1997
SP/XP - Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX/GS/GSi/GTS/GTi - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
XP - Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
HX - Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTX - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
1998
SPX/GSX - Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP/GSX Limited - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
1997.5 GSX Limited (White) - Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTS - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTI - Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTX Limited - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
1999
SPX/GSX-L/XP-L/GTX-L - Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GS/GTS/GTi - Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 0
2000
GS/GTS/GTi - Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 0
/GTX/LRV/XP/RX - Low Speed – 1-1/2
High Speed – 0
2001
GS/GTS/GTi - Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 0
XP/RX/GTX/LRV - Low Speed – 1-1/2
High Speed – 0
Testing fuel gauge.
With the engine running or by pushing the start button with the lanyard off, if you ground the temp sensor wire you should get the temp alarm sounding. As for the fuel gauge, I would test the baffle and gauge since they're easy to troubleshoot without taking anything apart. You would need to locate the baffle that's clamped to the tank and then unplug the wire harness coming out of it. It should be a two wire plug with pink wires. To test the gauge, use a paperclip and short (connect) the two wires going towards the gauge. Now with the lanyard removed push the start button and see what happens. If the gauge goes to full, you have a baffle problem. If nothing happens, your gauge is most likely at fault. To test the baffle, using an ohmeter check for resistance on the two wires going into the baffle. You should get a reading from 0 to 89 ohms. If you get an open circuit, you have a bad baffle. If it's below full but you get a 0 ohm reading, the magnets most likely have detached from the float. If the ski has fuel in it and it reads around 90 ohms (corresponds to empty), the float may have absorbed fuel and is setting in the bottom of the baffle.
Fuel gauge part number 295500438. Under $11 and must use part number.
Seadoo X4 hulls
95-96 XP
96-99 SPX
97 SP
Red start button Part # 277-000-306. Under $3.
Random useful info.
All yellow 580 motors & the 93 & 94 XP have the same flywheel & 5 wire stators.
White 580's & all other 650 & 720 motors use a different flywheel & 4 wire stators.
787 RFI cases can be used with all standard 787 parts, have a case cooler, 100 extra RPM.
All 580, 657 and 720 flywheel housings and covers are the same.
587 engine with 720 electronics will work. The only difference in mpems is the rev limiter. A 587 has a 6550 setting and a 657/717 usually are set at 7000 so you might want to add an external one you can set to the proper rpm.
84-89 Nissan 300ZX and 84-88 200SX left window motor will replace VTS motor.
Rotary Valve Timing
VTS info and repair.
Replacing Tempo fuel lines.
Seadoo History
Carb Reference
The easiest way to spot a BN carb is by the round diaphram cover on the side of the carb.
A BN has the jets and the fuel pump diaphram on the same side of the carb and it is a large round stack of parts with several screws holding it onto the side of the carbureator.
All SBN carbs have two covers. One on each side of the carbureator. one cover is over the fuel regulator diaphram, needle valve and jets. The other one covers the fuel pump components. These covers are square shaped and have 4 screws holding them onto the side of the carbureator.
Sea Doo used the 38mm BN carbs on all 1988-1991 587 powered models, both single and dual carb models. Sea Doo quit using the BN carbs when they built the 1992 models.
The SBN carb replaced the BN carbs. It is a much easier carb to tune and keep tuned. It was a vast improvement over the older BN carbs. The pwc slang term for the BN carbs is "round body". Thus named for the round diaphram cover on the side of the carb.
How to remove jet pump. Credit: Bill O'Neal WCM
Put a 2x4 across the back of the hull. This will become your "pump puller tool". Remove all four bolts from the nozzel and also the jetpump housing where it is attached to the hull.
Drill two holes through the 2x4 inline with two of the jetpump nozzel bolt holes.
Using 8mm x 1.25 pitch allthread, make two studs long enough to go from the jetpump through the 2x4, Use washers and nuts to tighten against the 2x4 and the jetpump will come out.
Of course you must first remove the three hoses attached to the jetpump at the rear inside of the transon., along with the steering cable at the nozzel end.
They used to use silicone to seal the pump to the hull ( very important that you have a great seal there ) Now, you can buy a neoprene seal from Sea Doo that sticks on and makes pulling pumps much easier down the road.
M=MAG, Front
C=Center
P=PTO, Rear
Stock Sea-Doo Carb Settings, all listed as turns out from seated:
1988-1990
All - Low Speed – 1 ?¢
High Speed – 0
1991
SP - Low Speed – 1 ?¢
High Speed – 0
GT - Low Speed – 1 1/8
High Speed – 1/4
XP - Low Speed – 1 1/4
High Speed – 1/4
1992
SP - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP/GTS/GTX - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1993
SP/SPi - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX/XP - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTS/GTX - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1994
SP/SPi/GTS - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX/XP/GTX - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1995
SP/SPi/GTS/GTX - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX - Low Speed – 1 1/8 +/- 1/8
High Speed – 0
XP/HX - Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP800 - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/8
High Speed – 0
1996
SP/SPi/SPX/GTS/GTi - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP/GSX/GTX - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
HX - Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
1997
SP/XP - Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
SPX/GS/GSi/GTS/GTi - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
XP - Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
HX - Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTX - Low Speed – 1 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
1998
SPX/GSX - Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
XP/GSX Limited - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
1997.5 GSX Limited (White) - Low Speed – 1 3/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTS - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTI - Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GTX Limited - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – MAG 0 PTO 1/4
1999
SPX/GSX-L/XP-L/GTX-L - Low Speed – 1 1/2 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
GS/GTS/GTi - Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 0
2000
GS/GTS/GTi - Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 0
/GTX/LRV/XP/RX - Low Speed – 1-1/2
High Speed – 0
2001
GS/GTS/GTi - Low Speed – 1
High Speed – 0
XP/RX/GTX/LRV - Low Speed – 1-1/2
High Speed – 0
Testing fuel gauge.
With the engine running or by pushing the start button with the lanyard off, if you ground the temp sensor wire you should get the temp alarm sounding. As for the fuel gauge, I would test the baffle and gauge since they're easy to troubleshoot without taking anything apart. You would need to locate the baffle that's clamped to the tank and then unplug the wire harness coming out of it. It should be a two wire plug with pink wires. To test the gauge, use a paperclip and short (connect) the two wires going towards the gauge. Now with the lanyard removed push the start button and see what happens. If the gauge goes to full, you have a baffle problem. If nothing happens, your gauge is most likely at fault. To test the baffle, using an ohmeter check for resistance on the two wires going into the baffle. You should get a reading from 0 to 89 ohms. If you get an open circuit, you have a bad baffle. If it's below full but you get a 0 ohm reading, the magnets most likely have detached from the float. If the ski has fuel in it and it reads around 90 ohms (corresponds to empty), the float may have absorbed fuel and is setting in the bottom of the baffle.
Fuel gauge part number 295500438. Under $11 and must use part number.
Seadoo X4 hulls
95-96 XP
96-99 SPX
97 SP
Red start button Part # 277-000-306. Under $3.
Random useful info.
All yellow 580 motors & the 93 & 94 XP have the same flywheel & 5 wire stators.
White 580's & all other 650 & 720 motors use a different flywheel & 4 wire stators.
787 RFI cases can be used with all standard 787 parts, have a case cooler, 100 extra RPM.
All 580, 657 and 720 flywheel housings and covers are the same.
587 engine with 720 electronics will work. The only difference in mpems is the rev limiter. A 587 has a 6550 setting and a 657/717 usually are set at 7000 so you might want to add an external one you can set to the proper rpm.
84-89 Nissan 300ZX and 84-88 200SX left window motor will replace VTS motor.
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