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  • Engine just died

    Hi

    Have a Speedster with 4-tec 215 HP ( 2008 ) and at last run the engine just died suddenly. Turns over but wont start, Candoo has no fault codes, and i do get readings on the tacho, about 300 rpms when trying to start it so it seems to read rpm. Plugs looks ok, compression is ok, cant find any loose or corroded connections. Any ideas on where to look?

    Also, we have had som problems with the bendix when starting before, and since this happened its much more frequent, starter runs, but looses grip almost direct and freespins.

  • #2
    Well you need 3 things for it to run, air, fuel and spark. Start there
    Does the fuel pump run before start? Fuse?
    Does it have spark?
    Are all fuses good?
    Air, Assume it has air.

    Compression good you say, so timing chain not snapped.
    No codes so sensors probably ok.

    Start there, report back.

    Comment


    • #3
      Fuelpump run before start
      Coils generate spark
      Fuses ok
      havent done a full compressiontest but can feel it when the plugs are out.

      If the chain snaps, will the valves even survive that?

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      • #4
        when my timing chain snapped I had no valve damage, maybe I got lucky

        Comment


        • #5
          Sounds like the chain may have let go, remove the valve cover and check, only a few torx bolts if you don't have a compression gauge.

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, spot on guys, i'm sure its not supposed to look like this

            Guess its a real pain to do the change by myself. Also, do the whole engine need to be taken aparts, thinking of metal pieces that may have dropped down from the chan links.

            Is it common for the chain to snap since you both was so sure about it?



            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Well to change the chain the engine has to come out, cases split crank lifted and new chain installled. So basically everything except the head has to come apart.
              While your in there, check the oil pumps for damage. If they are scored up, replace.
              Check your supercharger, did it loose washer, nut come off, bearing fail?
              When split, check inside for debris.
              Closely inspect the gears and flywheel and magneto for any damage.

              Now back to the head, the valves will have to be checked if any got bent, look at pistions for marks where the valves hit and check the corresponding valve.

              How many hours on it? Depending on hrs, new bearings may be in order. (Jerry sells a complete Kit)

              Lots of parts needed for a tear down. Bolts, sealers, gaskets, etc.

              Unless you have a shop manual, are mechanically inclined and have good tools, maybe taking it to a dealer wold be better. Will cost more though.

              Comment


              • #8
                Is has 58 hours on it.

                Spoke to the shop now, and depending on how much damage there is it might be smarter so put in a new engine. Not sure if thats true, but with all parts and labor going thru everything it just might be the smarter thing to do.

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                • #9
                  The shop should know that a leak down test would quickly tell them if the valves are damaged without taking anything apart. A "new" engine will cost about $3000, plus labor to remove and install. Pulling your 58 hour engine, replacing the timing chain, checking for valve damage, repairing that, if found, should be way cheaper. Gaskets, new torque to angle bolts, fluids, should cost about $400-600. You should find a shop that is not afraid to work on a 4 tec

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                  • #10
                    Well, its going to the shop next week, so when they pull the engine i get the final word.

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                    • #11
                      plan on a replacement engine, its likely the broken chain damaged the lower end, but pull and dissemble to be sure.

                      with a place to hang a chainfall and some basics tools you can have the engine on your bench in less then two hours

                      figure on close to 4-5 k by the time your done.
                      -Pete
                      Captain Pete's JetSki Service est. 2008
                      Elephant Butte New Mexico
                      http://www.cpjetski.com

                      "When all else fails, try doing what the Captain suggested"
                      Looking for useful Polaris PWC information? Click hereThanks to K447!
                      Please post your questions on forum, Please do not PM me for direct help
                      I do not provide help if you call my shop during business hours. I'm just too busy with my business.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yeah, i do expect to do CPR to my creditcard after this

                        Do the jet drive axle need to be removed from the back when pulling the engine or does it slide forward and the lift, anyone know?

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                        • #13
                          Yes, the drive shaft needs to be removed. This requires removing the jet drive, and the carbon seal. Carbon seal ring can be tough due to shaft corrosion. Just did mine, was easier for me to slide engine forward away from the driveshaft, then pull drive shaft out. It I paid attention to engine level and hull so as not to damage hull from pulling engine /driveshaft up.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            This is a Speedster so it might be another setup under the hood, not sure. I have quite a lot of space at the front of the engine. question is, how much space do i need to separate engine from shaft?

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                            • #15
                              Hmmm, maybe 2-3 inches...

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