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2007 RXT lowish output for whats done?

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  • 2007 RXT lowish output for whats done?

    Have an 07 wake. (no trim control) Would go 67 or so all original at 8100ish. 4" intake, 15/20 imp, 2* wedge, x-charger and inj. It did 70 at 7700 @ 10lbs.

    I put a 629 cam in it as well as a fizzle intercooler setup this winter. And brought it out for the first time this weekend. Saw zero change. Same 10lbs same 70 at 7700. Was under the impression switching intercoolers was good for a few hundred RPM. But doesn't seem to of done anything at 10lbs. I've checked and set the slip as well on the new "X" charger while it was apart. Also put a WB02 on it this outing. Its in the 10's at idle. Transitions to 12's pretty quick and is at 12.4 @ 7700. No rising rate FPR. So that seems pretty on point.

    Is the factory intercooler just not taxed at 10lbs, so no real gains to be had?

    I was planning on pitching the prop a bit to get the RPM back. How far would you all suggest I go 2*? What kinda MPH is that generally good for?

    thanks! good to be back out on the water again!


    Guess there are no signatures anymore?

    4" Intake
    15/20 imp
    X-charger and injectors
    exh silencer removed
    629 cam
    A2W Fizzle IC
    2* wedge
    07' RXT 215
    X-charger
    15/20
    4" intake
    42lb inj.
    RRFPR
    A2W IC

  • #2
    Yes repitch the prop, you need more rpm to make more boost and take advantage of more aggressive cam. Maybe 14/19 prop would help, should net you 400 rpm but you need an ecu with a higher rev limit and a tune on it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Appreciate the input!

      Was trying to stay conservative and get it to the 250-260hp zone and just be happy w the family cruiser on the factory tune/ecu. Was under the impression I could do that with the X charger/injs/IC/prop and factory ECU. Maybe grab a RXP or similar smaller PWC to go “fast” with. I Was told with 250ish hp I should be able to push the 15/20 to 8000ish. So guessing I am down on power a bit. May just be tired it does have 160hours on it. 120-124ish compression on all 3.

      Everything seemed to be going perfectly inline with each upgrade. Until I got to the IC installation. Had read multiple places that the removal of the “super restrictive” factory “IC rod” from the intake manifold alone was worth a pound of boost or 2. And most said they’d see at least 200rpm rise from an IC. I saw nothing. Almost feel like something is wrong with the current setup so I’m afraid to throw less pitch at it with a new prop. Then when I find the issue, need to switch back again. …If that makes sense.
      07' RXT 215
      X-charger
      15/20
      4" intake
      42lb inj.
      RRFPR
      A2W IC

      Comment


      • #4
        Only other suggestion would be to double check cam timing and go over all piping for a boost leak.

        the 160 hours mean nothing if it was not abused for 160 hours. My ski has 158 hours and runs 83 all day long.

        Comment


        • #5
          Compression sounds good, hours wouldn’t bother me. As far as the prop, i probably wouldn’t buy a whole new one but if you can take a degree out of the trailing edge it will help get rpm up. It shouldn’t need it though, as you’ve basically built your ski in to an RXTX, only difference being the fuel and timing curves in the ECU. and the 629 is a stronger cam than the X skis had. When you installed the cam, how did you time it? Centered, advanced, retarded?

          I don’t like the 14/19 impeller though. A 15/20 has much more root angle and it’s a common mod to take a 15/20 and repitch it to 14/19. A true 14/19 is FLAT. I tried one in my rxtx and it spun up to 8200 on the rev limit and went like 65 mph. I don’t know how high you have to turn those things to make speed but I don’t like them. Not on an X charged ski
          My GPRXP car frankenstein - Microsquirt, 137+4, LS injectors, R35 coils…
          https://www.greenhulk.net/forum/pers...40#post6165258

          Comment


          • #6
            I have a boost leak rig/setup for cars. I'll throw that on and check. Def makes 10lbs pretty quick and jumps outa the water. No real cavitation. Pretty happy with the holeshot/accel. The party's just over a bit soon at 70 (indicated so really like 68?) and 7700rpm I feel like. Which is the same boost and MPH it did with the factory IC at the same 7700. If I had a boost leak I'd guess I wouldn't make the same 10lbs at peak RPM is what I was thinking. But I didn't check.

            Cam was installed centered. I did install supertech springs at the same time with the titanium retainers. I guess I have the springs for more RPM and a ECU flash. Just didn't know if it'd be worth it on a family 3 seater to buy the whole MAPX tuner studio deal. Was hoping for 75ish

            thanks!
            07' RXT 215
            X-charger
            15/20
            4" intake
            42lb inj.
            RRFPR
            A2W IC

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by John's truck
              Compression sounds good, hours wouldn’t bother me. As far as the prop, i probably wouldn’t buy a whole new one but if you can take a degree out of the trailing edge it will help get rpm up. It shouldn’t need it though, as you’ve basically built your ski in to an RXTX, only difference being the fuel and timing curves in the ECU. and the 629 is a stronger cam than the X skis had. When you installed the cam, how did you time it? Centered, advanced, retarded?

              I don’t like the 14/19 impeller though. A 15/20 has much more root angle and it’s a common mod to take a 15/20 and repitch it to 14/19. A true 14/19 is FLAT. I tried one in my rxtx and it spun up to 8200 on the rev limit and went like 65 mph. I don’t know how high you have to turn those things to make speed but I don’t like them. Not on an X charged ski

              I had a 14/19 on my 260 by recommendation of a tuner and it spun to 8550 with just an intake and tune. Hole shot and Acceleration was good because it would spin to 8300 out of the hole with no cavitation and deliver full power until the ski topped out at 75 on the dash. I did add a touch to the trailing end so it was prob a 14/20 so I would agree that a stock form x charger is about the absolute limit of that prop before you blow it out of the water but it’s a good match for it if you’re looking for more rpm’s and don’t plan on adding more modifications.

              The 15/19 is prob the best all around starting point but I like the idea of pitching the 15/20 to a 14/19, I’d be curious how that performs if the op goes that direction. I would think a reflash would get him a couple 100 rpm as well as better acceleration so maybe 15/19 pitch with a flash is a good combo if cam timing is correct.

              More Rpm’s = more boost = more power. There’s really not much more you can do to the skis after a certain point besides creating more boost by turning more rpm with or without larger charger wheels to make more power.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Forcefed1986
                I have a boost leak rig/setup for cars. I'll throw that on and check. Def makes 10lbs pretty quick and jumps outa the water. No real cavitation. Pretty happy with the holeshot/accel. The party's just over a bit soon at 70 (indicated so really like 68?)
                Wait, are you going off the factory dash for speed? It’s not just inaccurate, it’s not capable of showing over 70. Like even if the ECU was getting a speed input that the ski is going 75 mph, the 2006-09 dash board is programmed to not display a number higher than 70. You gotta get a handheld GPS or one of the better phone apps
                My GPRXP car frankenstein - Microsquirt, 137+4, LS injectors, R35 coils…
                https://www.greenhulk.net/forum/pers...40#post6165258

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well that’s pretty handy news to have, thanks! I had no idea it wouldn’t read over 70. Its an 07 wake. I’ll get the phone GPS on it and see what its actually doing now. I had always heard the seadoo was 2mph off so it all added up.

                  I did have a GPS on it pre-intercooler and pre-cam upgrade last season and it showed a tad over 68. Since the RPM didn’t change, Can’t imagine the speed did either though. Still appears to be stuck at 7700, regardless of indicated speed. So you are thinking 1 degree on the trailing edge? Not 2?

                  Is there a less expensive option to just raise the RPM a bit? Other than the entire maptunerX purchase? cheaper ECU flash maybe? Tempting to put a 50 shot of nitrous on the thing and let it eat. I'm sure i'd get my RPM back then!

                  Appreciate it guys.

                  07' RXT 215
                  X-charger
                  15/20
                  4" intake
                  42lb inj.
                  RRFPR
                  A2W IC

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The thing about the 2mph error is on the newer skis with GPS dashboards. They’ll show 77 dash and a handheld Garmin will show 75 for the same run. Yours, like my 08, has a paddle wheel on the back and is known as a “dream-o-meter” since they’re just about the least accurate instrument ever invented. Mine shows 70 when it’s going 50 gps and 70 when it’s going 72 gps. You can get a Can-Doo GPS module that plugs in to the harness and will be accurate… but the dashboard is still capped at 70
                    My GPRXP car frankenstein - Microsquirt, 137+4, LS injectors, R35 coils…
                    https://www.greenhulk.net/forum/pers...40#post6165258

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Forcefed1986
                      Have an 07 wake. (no trim control) Would go 67 or so all original at 8100ish. 4" intake, 15/20 imp, 2* wedge, x-charger and inj. It did 70 at 7700 @ 10lbs.

                      I put a 629 cam in it as well as a fizzle intercooler setup this winter. And brought it out for the first time this weekend. Saw zero change. Same 10lbs same 70 at 7700. Was under the impression switching intercoolers was good for a few hundred RPM. But doesn't seem to of done anything at 10lbs. I've checked and set the slip as well on the new "X" charger while it was apart. Also put a WB02 on it this outing. Its in the 10's at idle. Transitions to 12's pretty quick and is at 12.4 @ 7700. No rising rate FPR. So that seems pretty on point.

                      Is the factory intercooler just not taxed at 10lbs, so no real gains to be had?

                      I was planning on pitching the prop a bit to get the RPM back. How far would you all suggest I go 2*? What kinda MPH is that generally good for?

                      thanks! good to be back out on the water again!


                      Guess there are no signatures anymore?

                      4" Intake
                      15/20 imp
                      X-charger and injectors
                      exh silencer removed
                      629 cam
                      A2W Fizzle IC
                      2* wedge
                      Start by doing "free mods": ensure engine/thur hull fitting/pump are properly aligned using the proper alignment tools.
                      Remove the nose cone from the impeller.
                      Fill in the ride plate bolt holes.

                      Replace the stock intake grate with a Riva or Worx grate
                      Rebuild pump, replace wear ring.
                      Send impeller to Impros to repitch impeller. Seek guidance from Glenn on pitch and/or a new impeller.
                      2013 RXT-X260 - GRF BorgWarner EFR 67/58 Turbo/MoTeC M130 (engine is dead, something new soon)
                      Build Thread: http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=231361
                      Kicker audio:http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=215264&highlight=kicker
                      https://wfoperformance.net/sites/us/...5/web/home.htm

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 1tommygunner1927

                        Start by doing "free mods": ensure engine/thur hull fitting/pump are properly aligned using the proper alignment tools.
                        Remove the nose cone from the impeller.
                        Fill in the ride plate bolt holes.

                        Replace the stock intake grate with a Riva or Worx grate
                        Rebuild pump, replace wear ring.
                        Send impeller to Impros to repitch impeller. Seek guidance from Glenn on pitch and/or a new impeller.

                        Believe I've done most of that last year that got me 70 (68 on the gps) removed the bin from the front as well. also removed the opas. Was an all original ski last year when I bought it. All these parts have very few hours.

                        No nose cone, left that off when I did impeller.
                        Holes filled,
                        The wake grate is just bar's across the inlet. No Scoop etc. basically a straight shot. I was told these were "ok" and shouldn't really limit me any like the "scoop style"?
                        It has a new wear ring installed that with the new impeller. (has maybe 5-6 hours on it)
                        Pulled the whole motor this winter, new HG, cam, springs, it has been installed and aligned.

                        I'd like to just repitch the prop myself. But I guess I could send it out. I have the prop angle gauges printed out. Was just hesitant at first. wanted to see if I could find the source of the lowish power/lack of rpm. Even if the boat were slower than it should be, shouldn't a huge A2W IC net some gains/rpm? Guess my tach could be off... Is that common? I'll get into it this weekend and see what I can find.

                        Appreciate all the input.
                        07' RXT 215
                        X-charger
                        15/20
                        4" intake
                        42lb inj.
                        RRFPR
                        A2W IC

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Your tach isn’t going to be off. It doesn’t receive a tach pulse signal. It’s Canbus so It just displays information that it receives from the ECU. If the ECU thinks the engine is doing 7700, the gauge will display 7700, period.
                          My GPRXP car frankenstein - Microsquirt, 137+4, LS injectors, R35 coils…
                          https://www.greenhulk.net/forum/pers...40#post6165258

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Forcefed1986


                            Believe I've done most of that last year that got me 70 (68 on the gps) removed the bin from the front as well. also removed the opas. Was an all original ski last year when I bought it. All these parts have very few hours.

                            No nose cone, left that off when I did impeller.
                            Holes filled,
                            The wake grate is just bar's across the inlet. No Scoop etc. basically a straight shot. I was told these were "ok" and shouldn't really limit me any like the "scoop style"?
                            It has a new wear ring installed that with the new impeller. (has maybe 5-6 hours on it)
                            Pulled the whole motor this winter, new HG, cam, springs, it has been installed and aligned.

                            I'd like to just repitch the prop myself. But I guess I could send it out. I have the prop angle gauges printed out. Was just hesitant at first. wanted to see if I could find the source of the lowish power/lack of rpm. Even if the boat were slower than it should be, shouldn't a huge A2W IC net some gains/rpm? Guess my tach could be off... Is that common? I'll get into it this weekend and see what I can find.

                            Appreciate all the input.
                            Maximum speed on the dash will always be 70 mph, and its not accurate.

                            Check S/Cer slip. Reset set it at 12 foot pounds. Be sure oil level is half way between the full/add marks on dip stick. Fresh plugs gapped .028". What's the clearance between the impeller blades and wear ring? None of the blades should touch the wear ring. What injectors are installed? They should be 42 # with an X charger. If you're using a J pipe/waterbox, change it to the later 2008 TX/PX stuff as it flows better.
                            2013 RXT-X260 - GRF BorgWarner EFR 67/58 Turbo/MoTeC M130 (engine is dead, something new soon)
                            Build Thread: http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=231361
                            Kicker audio:http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=215264&highlight=kicker
                            https://wfoperformance.net/sites/us/...5/web/home.htm

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I'd have to measure clearance. It was tight, but not rubbing much. A nats ass in one spot when free spun by hand. But def wasn't hanging up. Def doesn't now. Was an OEM seadoo wear ring. (not SS) The blower was purchased with the new 42lbs flow matched injs as a kit. Slip was checked when I pulled the motor and reset. it was on the loose side around 8-9ftlb. It was a new oem unit. Flipped the washers around as instructed here. I want to say it was closer to 14. Either way it makes the same 10psi now as it did when I first installed it.

                              Blower inlet is a tapered 4" elbow with a 6" duct on it plumbed up to the fresh air spot under the seat. no filter. Also tried running without the rear seat. I get much louder fun blower whine, but no real RPM change.

                              Has new plugs. Do you guys find the 10:1 idle fouls the plugs out quick? I have the rising rate FPR to install. Hoping with vac pulling on it, I can drop the base lower to clear that up. but holds pretty steady at 12.4 peaked out.

                              It's the original water box. I only removed the exh silencer pipe.

                              Had seen a few posts back when the RXT came out where a fella went 70 with only free mods. Was pretty impressive. My lake temps were in the high 60's and ambient was 70's last weekend. Elevation is 1400ft. I'm 210lbs. had a full tank. near as I can tell I did all those mods. Even tried the silly superman pose, still hovered at 7700. Water was darn calm for KS, like 5-6mph winds. pretty much the perfect day.
                              07' RXT 215
                              X-charger
                              15/20
                              4" intake
                              42lb inj.
                              RRFPR
                              A2W IC

                              Comment

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