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This is a copy of the list that GP posted at SDN.
When he presented it to SDN, I made sure I copied it for future reference. Something to keep in your ski file...
(For Earlier 2003, 04, and 05 model ski`s.)
1- Make sure your unit has had the hood-latch update done.
This warranty campaign has expired.
2- Make sure your knock sensor update is done if your unit
qualifies.
This warranty/dealer campaign also expired.
3- Add clamps or stainless-tabbed zip-tyes to your bailer tube check valves, the gray ones inside the rear area of your hull. (All)
4- Make 110% sure the bailer tubes themselves are securely inserted in the venturi.
5- Secure your bailer hose plastic 90 degree elbows up high in the hull. NEVER allow them to lay low in the hull or water will injest instead of remove.
6- Never accelerate "throttle to the bar" unless you are at least in 5-6 feet of water to avoid pump/impeller/wear ring damage.
7- Anytime the stock intake Grate is going to be removed, always use direct heat on the bolts to free loc-tite. I use a very heavy duty soldering gun as open flames are not safe for the area. Many broken bolts can be avoided this way.
8- When not in use always store with the seat removed to allow all moisture to escape into the atmosphere and not find it`s way into your precious electrics, we fix many machines that have eleectrical demons that are easily avoidable with this and some well placed, light mists of WD-40 or a similar product.
9- Fog the engine with the appropriate lube. WD-40 isn`t the right one for fogging.
10- 80% of the hull repairs we do were not done by the owner..... be carefull who rides your PWC especially at the speeds they are capable of these days.
11- Run a blow-off valve for the supercharger clutch longevity, it provides no real power gain, but is a big reduction in the abuse that is an actual "good method" of solving a tuogh problem that Rotax had to address when developing this set-up. This keeps the SC shaft from snapping when the pump loads and reloads at high RPM`s and heavy loads.
12- You can take this to the highest level of protection by using a heavy duty clutch kit from Rotax Racing and combining it with a BOV.
13- Always avoid running anywhere near any ropes or ski-ropes as they can destroy your hull`s thru-hull passage for the driveshaft. Most other models are easy to repair in this area, but NOT the RXP though, it can be extremely damaging and it is equally if not harder to repair.
14- Always check your engines oil level when it is at absolute poerating temperature and sitting level. Optimum height on the dip stick is 1/2-3/4 of the way up the indentation on the stick. This is the number 1 cause of engine RPM lose closely followed by damaged impellers, wear-rings and slipping SC clutches.
15- Replace the spring clamps at the heat exchanger plate spigots with high quality hose clamps.
16- Replace the Exit Exhaust Hose with a quality metal tube designed to handle water and not rust or corrode.
These are the things we see as a high volume servicing Sea-Doo dealer, and as a high performance shop. I am sure I missed a few but hopefully this list will help many. Quoted by GP @ PPG
Most of you guys already know this, but for those that don`t, I hope this helps you out...PR...
When he presented it to SDN, I made sure I copied it for future reference. Something to keep in your ski file...
(For Earlier 2003, 04, and 05 model ski`s.)
1- Make sure your unit has had the hood-latch update done.
This warranty campaign has expired.
2- Make sure your knock sensor update is done if your unit
qualifies.
This warranty/dealer campaign also expired.
3- Add clamps or stainless-tabbed zip-tyes to your bailer tube check valves, the gray ones inside the rear area of your hull. (All)
4- Make 110% sure the bailer tubes themselves are securely inserted in the venturi.
5- Secure your bailer hose plastic 90 degree elbows up high in the hull. NEVER allow them to lay low in the hull or water will injest instead of remove.
6- Never accelerate "throttle to the bar" unless you are at least in 5-6 feet of water to avoid pump/impeller/wear ring damage.
7- Anytime the stock intake Grate is going to be removed, always use direct heat on the bolts to free loc-tite. I use a very heavy duty soldering gun as open flames are not safe for the area. Many broken bolts can be avoided this way.
8- When not in use always store with the seat removed to allow all moisture to escape into the atmosphere and not find it`s way into your precious electrics, we fix many machines that have eleectrical demons that are easily avoidable with this and some well placed, light mists of WD-40 or a similar product.
9- Fog the engine with the appropriate lube. WD-40 isn`t the right one for fogging.
10- 80% of the hull repairs we do were not done by the owner..... be carefull who rides your PWC especially at the speeds they are capable of these days.
11- Run a blow-off valve for the supercharger clutch longevity, it provides no real power gain, but is a big reduction in the abuse that is an actual "good method" of solving a tuogh problem that Rotax had to address when developing this set-up. This keeps the SC shaft from snapping when the pump loads and reloads at high RPM`s and heavy loads.
12- You can take this to the highest level of protection by using a heavy duty clutch kit from Rotax Racing and combining it with a BOV.
13- Always avoid running anywhere near any ropes or ski-ropes as they can destroy your hull`s thru-hull passage for the driveshaft. Most other models are easy to repair in this area, but NOT the RXP though, it can be extremely damaging and it is equally if not harder to repair.
14- Always check your engines oil level when it is at absolute poerating temperature and sitting level. Optimum height on the dip stick is 1/2-3/4 of the way up the indentation on the stick. This is the number 1 cause of engine RPM lose closely followed by damaged impellers, wear-rings and slipping SC clutches.
15- Replace the spring clamps at the heat exchanger plate spigots with high quality hose clamps.
16- Replace the Exit Exhaust Hose with a quality metal tube designed to handle water and not rust or corrode.
These are the things we see as a high volume servicing Sea-Doo dealer, and as a high performance shop. I am sure I missed a few but hopefully this list will help many. Quoted by GP @ PPG
Most of you guys already know this, but for those that don`t, I hope this helps you out...PR...
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