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There has been lots of information learned about these newer iControl skis and I wanted to build a post compiling information and making it available here.
Please feel free to add to this as we all learn from your testing and sharing of information.
Lot's of the info here will be common knowledge for most of you, but there are many that stand to benefit from this. Hopefully this information helps people modify their skis correctly without trial and error and wasting money on unneeded parts.
The biggest hurdle to overcome with the stock iControl ski is the many different limiters in the stock ECU. The main ones are:
GPS Speed Limiter
Boost Limiter
RPM limiter (8040)
Contrary to popular belief, even the international models have a speed limiter. International models are limited to 73 mph. US models are limited to 69 mph.
Riva makes a speed control modules that will bypass the stock speed limiter. This will allow for a little more speed, but still leaves other limiters intact which will slow down your ski.
Riva SCOM can be found here in the forums store
http://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=45
You can add all the modifications in the world, but your ski will not go much faster until the ECU is reflashed, or a SCOM is used to remove the speed limiter.
ECU Reflashing
The RIVA MaptunerX has been an extremely popular option as it gives the ski owner the ability to reflash his own ECU without sending it off for service. This is done by purchasing a MaptunerX tuning bundle package. The MaptunerX is capable of tuning an endless amount of skis, you just need to purchase a tuning credit for each ski that you tune. In addition to Sea-Doo skis the MaptunerX is also capable of programming Ski-Doo snowmobiles, Can-Am ATV's and Can-Am Spyders. Again, a tuning credit must be purchased for each vehicle that is tuned.
A nice thing about the MaptunerX is once you purchase a tuning credit for your ski you can change mapping at any time at no extra cost to you. If modifications are upgraded on the ski simply upload a different map for your level of modifications. If you want to flash it back to stock then it can be done within minutes, all at no extra cost.
The MaptunerX is a popular item among shops as it allows them to program their customers skis and other BRP vehicles and has become a great profit center for them. The GreenHulk Store offers dealer bulk packs of tuning licenses at discounted prices.
The MaptunerX products and services can be viewed here in the online store for more information which includes an instructional video showing how easy it is to use
Another popular option to enable one to fine tune their ski is the Dynojet CMD system with optional auto tune feature. This is a piggy back electronic fuel controller that enables the user to input the values he desires and have the Dynojet system automatically adjust the AFR to the desired settings. For more information, the Dynojet CMD system can be viewed here in the forums online store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...ndex&cPath=192
A tutorial with links and base maps for the Dynjet CMD can be found here in the FAQ section of the forum http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=190363
Engine
If you choose to run a reflash or stand alone ignition at over 8350 RPM's then it's important you upgrade the valve train.
It's recommended that you can run just a titanium retainer kit at up to 8500 RPM. If you choose to run higher than that then it's best to use a full valve train upgrade kit which includes springs and retainers. Many people run the spring/retainer kits as high as 9000 RPM, but the general recommendation is that if you choose to run 8800 or more RPM then to also install light weight valves. Options on valve train upgrade and also other engine modifications can be explored here in the store
Air Intake
The stock intake manifolds on these skis contain a flame arestor element that is very restrictive. Your ski will not operate at it's peak performance until this restriction is removed.
Riva makes an intake manifold upgrade kit that removes the element and comes with a billet plug that mounts to the front of the manifold which is drilled and tapped for 1/8 NPT fittings. This makes it super easy for you to install the RRFPR of which you will need and also a boost gauge or blow off valve should you choose to run one. The intake manifold upgrade can be viewed here in the store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=889
The stock air intake system on these skis is also very restrictive and there are big gains to be had by going with an after market air intake system. You can view the different air intake kits available for your particular ski by following this link to the online store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...ndex&cPath=363
Intercoolers
While the stock intercooler is perfectly suited for a stock ski, it's not adequate for a modified ski running higher than stock boost levels and higher RPM's. This is especially the case with the intercooler on the 2012 and newer skis in which Sea-Doo has reduced the size of the core by 30% over previous model years. Riva makes a Gen 3 intercooler that is a direct replacement for the OEM intercooler. It's an extremely good performing and high quality intercooler. More details can be viewed here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1849
Other intercooler options, including intercooler plumbing upgrade kits can be viewed here
Superchargers
One of the best and easiest ways to increase your skis power output is to upgrade the supercharger. I have always said, "the more boost you make the more fun you will have"
There are currently many options for upgrading your supercharger ranging from the Mini Rude, Riva XX and the offerings from Engine Tech (ET)
You can learn more about these different upgrades by following this link to the forums store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...ex&cPath=18_63
It's extremely vital that you maintain your supercharger. My recommendation is to rebuild them every 100 hours. Sea-Doo recently went to a 200 hour interval which I feel was a move based on the fact they may have been losing sales due to many people complaining about having to rebuild their superchargers every 100 hours. Sea-Doo made the change to 200 hours due to them using a newer upgraded clutch washer, however they did nothing to improve the bearings which is a problem area if superchargers are pushed much over 100 hours. If the bearings do fail then your supercharger is scrap and it will need to be replaced.
Although the washers that now come in the Sea-Doo supercharger rebuild kits are very good, my personal preference is the Riva metal clutch washers. I have seen them last longer and hold slip moment longer than any other clutch washer on the market. Speaking of slip moment, a tutorial on how to shim your supercharger for proper slip is here in the FAQ section
As a general rule of thumb you want your supercharger to have 1 ft lb of slip moment for every 1 psi boost pressure anticipated.
With that said, if your supercharger is said to make 16 psi boost pressure then you want to set the slip moment at 16 ft lbs.
The spring washers that come on the stock supercharger and the ones that are provided in the rebuild kit are quite weak, however for a stock supercharger they are just fine. If you modify your supercharger with an upgrade then it's best to use the after market spring washers shown here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...ducts_id=13035
Exhaust
While getting more air into your engine enables it to make more power you have to be able to get the air out. There are quite a few options regarding the exhaust system of your ski.
There are rear exhausts, free flow exhausts and also complete exhaust systems that replace the stock water box with an after market waterbox.
My personal preference is for the replacement waterbox/rear exhaust. Nothing sounds better in my opinion. It gives a nice throaty sound without being too obnoxiously loud.
I personally don't like the basic free flow exhaust as they tend to drone as the exhaust is still dumping into the pump tunnel area. The many exhaust options for your ski can be found on this page of the store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...dex&cPath=18_3
Pump/Impeller
Increasing power output with all the HP in the world does absolutely nothing for your ski until you get the pump dialed in too.
It's important that the pitch of the impeller be matched to the power output of the engine and desired RPM range you intend to operate the engine.
For skis with Reflashes or stand alone ignitions I currently recommend either 15/19R impeller, or the 15/20R impeller. The 15/22R is just too steep for most skis and won't allow for higher RPM's
It's important that you use an SRZ impeller on these iControl skis as they are specially machined for the proper set back. Using an older style SRX impeller could cause the driveshaft to be moved forward which will open a gap at the carbon seal and cause the ski to take on water and sink. The SRZ impellers can be found here in the forums store
15/19R http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=7823
15/20R http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=7824
It's important that when you change your impeller that you also install a new wear ring.
The OEM replacement wear ring can be found here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=518
The aftermarket stainless steel wear ring can be found here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=401
My personal preference is the stainless steel wear ring as it will last the life of your ski. The plastic wear rings degrade every time you ride your ski and need to be changed frequently.
More information about stock vs stainless steel wear rings can be found here
It's important that you fine tune your impeller for your particular ski, modifications and desired RPM level. There is no such thing as an out of the box impeller that's going to be 100% perfect for every ski everywhere. You will get the best results when dialing in your impeller. This is extremely easy to do yourself so don't let it intimidate you. Here's a easy to follow how to in our FAQ section that will show how this is done http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=2614
More information about impeller pitch and weather conditions and altitude can be found here
Handling
In addition to a faster accelerating and a ski capable of much higher speeds than stock you may want to familiarize yourself with the different ways to improve handling and hook up in rough water. Have a look at the various sponsons, intake grates, ride plates and steering systems in this section of the online store
Maintenance
It's important that you maintain your ski. Change the oil at the manufacturers recommendation and also winterize if you live in cooler climates.
I recommend changing spark plugs before every season. This could save you some grief from fouled spark plugs once you start riding in spring.
Have a look at this kit in the store which contains the proper oil for your ski, oil filter, O rings and also spark plugs. Everything you need in one box
An information sheet on winterizing your ski can be found here in the FAQ section of the forum
This should cover all the basics on showing you how to build a better performing ski. There's plently more to learn here on the forum as there are many knowledgeable members here with impressive builds for you to follow.
Save money on your performance parts! Use the discount code: greenhulk when completing the checkout process in the GREENHULK PWC Performance Store https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ and save 10% off the listed price of MOST Riva Racing, ALL Fizzle Factory, WORX Racing, and Solas Impellers.
Thank you!
Jerry
Please feel free to add to this as we all learn from your testing and sharing of information.
Lot's of the info here will be common knowledge for most of you, but there are many that stand to benefit from this. Hopefully this information helps people modify their skis correctly without trial and error and wasting money on unneeded parts.
The biggest hurdle to overcome with the stock iControl ski is the many different limiters in the stock ECU. The main ones are:
GPS Speed Limiter
Boost Limiter
RPM limiter (8040)
Contrary to popular belief, even the international models have a speed limiter. International models are limited to 73 mph. US models are limited to 69 mph.
Riva makes a speed control modules that will bypass the stock speed limiter. This will allow for a little more speed, but still leaves other limiters intact which will slow down your ski.
Riva SCOM can be found here in the forums store
http://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=45
You can add all the modifications in the world, but your ski will not go much faster until the ECU is reflashed, or a SCOM is used to remove the speed limiter.
ECU Reflashing
The RIVA MaptunerX has been an extremely popular option as it gives the ski owner the ability to reflash his own ECU without sending it off for service. This is done by purchasing a MaptunerX tuning bundle package. The MaptunerX is capable of tuning an endless amount of skis, you just need to purchase a tuning credit for each ski that you tune. In addition to Sea-Doo skis the MaptunerX is also capable of programming Ski-Doo snowmobiles, Can-Am ATV's and Can-Am Spyders. Again, a tuning credit must be purchased for each vehicle that is tuned.
A nice thing about the MaptunerX is once you purchase a tuning credit for your ski you can change mapping at any time at no extra cost to you. If modifications are upgraded on the ski simply upload a different map for your level of modifications. If you want to flash it back to stock then it can be done within minutes, all at no extra cost.
The MaptunerX is a popular item among shops as it allows them to program their customers skis and other BRP vehicles and has become a great profit center for them. The GreenHulk Store offers dealer bulk packs of tuning licenses at discounted prices.
The MaptunerX products and services can be viewed here in the online store for more information which includes an instructional video showing how easy it is to use
Another popular option to enable one to fine tune their ski is the Dynojet CMD system with optional auto tune feature. This is a piggy back electronic fuel controller that enables the user to input the values he desires and have the Dynojet system automatically adjust the AFR to the desired settings. For more information, the Dynojet CMD system can be viewed here in the forums online store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...ndex&cPath=192
A tutorial with links and base maps for the Dynjet CMD can be found here in the FAQ section of the forum http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=190363
Engine
If you choose to run a reflash or stand alone ignition at over 8350 RPM's then it's important you upgrade the valve train.
It's recommended that you can run just a titanium retainer kit at up to 8500 RPM. If you choose to run higher than that then it's best to use a full valve train upgrade kit which includes springs and retainers. Many people run the spring/retainer kits as high as 9000 RPM, but the general recommendation is that if you choose to run 8800 or more RPM then to also install light weight valves. Options on valve train upgrade and also other engine modifications can be explored here in the store
Air Intake
The stock intake manifolds on these skis contain a flame arestor element that is very restrictive. Your ski will not operate at it's peak performance until this restriction is removed.
Riva makes an intake manifold upgrade kit that removes the element and comes with a billet plug that mounts to the front of the manifold which is drilled and tapped for 1/8 NPT fittings. This makes it super easy for you to install the RRFPR of which you will need and also a boost gauge or blow off valve should you choose to run one. The intake manifold upgrade can be viewed here in the store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=889
The stock air intake system on these skis is also very restrictive and there are big gains to be had by going with an after market air intake system. You can view the different air intake kits available for your particular ski by following this link to the online store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...ndex&cPath=363
Intercoolers
While the stock intercooler is perfectly suited for a stock ski, it's not adequate for a modified ski running higher than stock boost levels and higher RPM's. This is especially the case with the intercooler on the 2012 and newer skis in which Sea-Doo has reduced the size of the core by 30% over previous model years. Riva makes a Gen 3 intercooler that is a direct replacement for the OEM intercooler. It's an extremely good performing and high quality intercooler. More details can be viewed here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1849
Other intercooler options, including intercooler plumbing upgrade kits can be viewed here
Superchargers
One of the best and easiest ways to increase your skis power output is to upgrade the supercharger. I have always said, "the more boost you make the more fun you will have"
There are currently many options for upgrading your supercharger ranging from the Mini Rude, Riva XX and the offerings from Engine Tech (ET)
You can learn more about these different upgrades by following this link to the forums store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...ex&cPath=18_63
It's extremely vital that you maintain your supercharger. My recommendation is to rebuild them every 100 hours. Sea-Doo recently went to a 200 hour interval which I feel was a move based on the fact they may have been losing sales due to many people complaining about having to rebuild their superchargers every 100 hours. Sea-Doo made the change to 200 hours due to them using a newer upgraded clutch washer, however they did nothing to improve the bearings which is a problem area if superchargers are pushed much over 100 hours. If the bearings do fail then your supercharger is scrap and it will need to be replaced.
Although the washers that now come in the Sea-Doo supercharger rebuild kits are very good, my personal preference is the Riva metal clutch washers. I have seen them last longer and hold slip moment longer than any other clutch washer on the market. Speaking of slip moment, a tutorial on how to shim your supercharger for proper slip is here in the FAQ section
As a general rule of thumb you want your supercharger to have 1 ft lb of slip moment for every 1 psi boost pressure anticipated.
With that said, if your supercharger is said to make 16 psi boost pressure then you want to set the slip moment at 16 ft lbs.
The spring washers that come on the stock supercharger and the ones that are provided in the rebuild kit are quite weak, however for a stock supercharger they are just fine. If you modify your supercharger with an upgrade then it's best to use the after market spring washers shown here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...ducts_id=13035
Exhaust
While getting more air into your engine enables it to make more power you have to be able to get the air out. There are quite a few options regarding the exhaust system of your ski.
There are rear exhausts, free flow exhausts and also complete exhaust systems that replace the stock water box with an after market waterbox.
My personal preference is for the replacement waterbox/rear exhaust. Nothing sounds better in my opinion. It gives a nice throaty sound without being too obnoxiously loud.
I personally don't like the basic free flow exhaust as they tend to drone as the exhaust is still dumping into the pump tunnel area. The many exhaust options for your ski can be found on this page of the store http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...dex&cPath=18_3
Pump/Impeller
Increasing power output with all the HP in the world does absolutely nothing for your ski until you get the pump dialed in too.
It's important that the pitch of the impeller be matched to the power output of the engine and desired RPM range you intend to operate the engine.
For skis with Reflashes or stand alone ignitions I currently recommend either 15/19R impeller, or the 15/20R impeller. The 15/22R is just too steep for most skis and won't allow for higher RPM's
It's important that you use an SRZ impeller on these iControl skis as they are specially machined for the proper set back. Using an older style SRX impeller could cause the driveshaft to be moved forward which will open a gap at the carbon seal and cause the ski to take on water and sink. The SRZ impellers can be found here in the forums store
15/19R http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=7823
15/20R http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=7824
It's important that when you change your impeller that you also install a new wear ring.
The OEM replacement wear ring can be found here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=518
The aftermarket stainless steel wear ring can be found here http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=401
My personal preference is the stainless steel wear ring as it will last the life of your ski. The plastic wear rings degrade every time you ride your ski and need to be changed frequently.
More information about stock vs stainless steel wear rings can be found here
It's important that you fine tune your impeller for your particular ski, modifications and desired RPM level. There is no such thing as an out of the box impeller that's going to be 100% perfect for every ski everywhere. You will get the best results when dialing in your impeller. This is extremely easy to do yourself so don't let it intimidate you. Here's a easy to follow how to in our FAQ section that will show how this is done http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=2614
More information about impeller pitch and weather conditions and altitude can be found here
Handling
In addition to a faster accelerating and a ski capable of much higher speeds than stock you may want to familiarize yourself with the different ways to improve handling and hook up in rough water. Have a look at the various sponsons, intake grates, ride plates and steering systems in this section of the online store
Maintenance
It's important that you maintain your ski. Change the oil at the manufacturers recommendation and also winterize if you live in cooler climates.
I recommend changing spark plugs before every season. This could save you some grief from fouled spark plugs once you start riding in spring.
Have a look at this kit in the store which contains the proper oil for your ski, oil filter, O rings and also spark plugs. Everything you need in one box
An information sheet on winterizing your ski can be found here in the FAQ section of the forum
This should cover all the basics on showing you how to build a better performing ski. There's plently more to learn here on the forum as there are many knowledgeable members here with impressive builds for you to follow.
Save money on your performance parts! Use the discount code: greenhulk when completing the checkout process in the GREENHULK PWC Performance Store https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ and save 10% off the listed price of MOST Riva Racing, ALL Fizzle Factory, WORX Racing, and Solas Impellers.
Thank you!
Jerry
I'm so full of it, great job Jerry 
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