2019 GTX230 - removing the front intake grate bolt after breaking the head off

[mhenry1282]

First time ski owner, coming from a boat. Girlfriends nephew let it suck up the ski rope last weekend.

Got it home, and from the looks of it, intake grate coming off will be much easier. After a lot of googling, I now know that is not the case!

Anywho, snapped the head off the front bolt. Managed to get one of the 10 or 12 mm nuts off. The 21 mm nut is still on, and doesn't want to push through (seems like a huge pain to get to with a wrench!).

What way should I go about to get the grate off and a new bolt in?

[nmpeter]

welcome aboard GH

it is unfortunate, but that nut is going to have to come off

an inspection camera will help lots here, as well as the correct wrench. an offset box version will make it a bit easier to get a grip on that nut...and a helper is suggested too.

[mhenry1282]

Is there anything holding the nut in there besides sealant? The rest of the bolt is in there, didn't want to push it through with a punch and chance damaging anything else.

I'll have to order another camera, those things were great working on the boat. Got a new phone and the cable doesn't fit this one.

[nmpeter]

if I am not mistaken the bolt is threaded into a hull insert and that nut was put there to assure the grate would not come off "by accident"

tread carefully here

i'd suggest a heat gun to heat the bolt befoe your next attempt at removal. with a little bit of heat and luck when you spin that nut off, it will take the bolt out with it, to the inside of the hull

a lesson to others..ask first, or check out the parts diagram to see what you might be looking at when trying something for the first time

you'll see here:

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/4tec/showmodel.asp?type=13&make=seadoopwc&a=757

that there is a nut and washer on the other side of that front bolt

I've dealt with these a number of times and it's far cheaper when they just bring it to a shop to get the rope out, once you break the bolt off, it becomes a more expensive affair, and if they really bung up what's left of the bolt, it becomes a _really_ expensive repair involving a replacement of the threaded insert

lets see a picture of where you are. if there is plenty of bolt left you can use a die grinder to cut a notch into it for a screwdriver for your assistant to hold the bolt while you spin the nut off

I did mention it was an expensive job, right?

I use an on-call shop helper sometimes, but I gotta hand him $50 to come down to the shop for a couple of hours of this or that.

you'll want to order an OEM stainless bolt for the replacement if you don't have a hardware store with an awesome assortment of marine hardware available

good luck!

[mhenry1282]

It seemed like a simple job by looking at it, just 3 bolts! I'll get a pic when I get home. Are those 3 bolts the only thing holding the grate on? Seems like it's still on there solid. The 2 aft bolts are out, and the head of the forward bolt is gone. Can't cut into the bolt for a flat head until I get the grate off. Is the second nut, 21mm closest to the hull, the threaded insert you were talking about, or is the threaded insert actually held in the hull?

[nmpeter]

yeah, looks like a simple job, that's the trap. on much older skis it WAS a simple job, the bolt screwed into the threaded hull insert and that was that. After some issues they backed up that with a bolt/washer/sealant

the threaded insert is for the front bolt. the nut inside works like a "jam nut" to keep the bolt from backing out and causing a high speed accident if the front of the grate comes loose

there is some sealant on the front of the grate likely making the grate difficult to remove

refer to the link I posted. that shows where all the hardware is.

get a heat gun or a hair dryer..and some safety googles and warm up the grate a little, it should pop right off after you get the rear bolts out

[Kosh]

I have had my GTX230 grate off, did not realise it had a nut on top of the threaded plate and spun the assembly breaking the small tab. I'll call it a plate as it is not an insert. It is a cast alloy disc with a small tab on the bottom and a nut on top sealed in place with some soft goo, should push off easily.

[mhenry1282]

This is where I'm at now. I looked at the parts breakdown, but I only saw it with one nut. IF I can get a 21mm wrench on the base nut and am easy out to back the broken bolt out, I should be good, correct? I'm guessing that I can't use a punch and push the broken bolt and nut up through the hull without causing more damage, correct?

[mhenry1282]

[mhenry1282]

Got the grate off. Put the heat gun on it for a bit, then hooked a strap from the front of the grate pulling backwards, slowly. Started easing off. What kind of sealant is that? I have some 5100 from the boat outdrive. Can I use that or is there something better with the finish on this thing?

[Yoffer2490]

Got the grate off. Put the heat gun on it for a bit, then hooked a strap from the front of the grate pulling backwards, slowly. Started easing off. What kind of sealant is that? I have some 5100 from the boat outdrive. Can I use that or is there something better with the finish on this thing?

The sealant is called "The Right Stuff", comes in a big tube at any auto parts store.

[nmpeter]

5100 will be fine, just need an inch of it. outdrive sealant is pretty much the same stuff. Right stuff is a really handy product and can also be used

with some luck I'll be wrong about the threaded insert on the latest models and you'll be able to punch the bolt right thru but I suspect it's still there as the bolt would have just spun around and not broken off.

get a wrench on it on the inside and give it a turn, see of the bolt is turning also, with some luck and if the bolt isn't buggered it will come out thru the inside, if not you'll have to gate a good grip on the bolt, or cut a groove in it to hold it while you get the nut off then spin the broken bolt out.

don't forget to order the replacement bolt

[mhenry1282]

Thanks for all the replies. Wasn't having good luck drilling it for an easy out, so I undid a few hoses to get at it from the top side. The bolt was sheared almost flush with the nut plate, there was no grabbing it from the bottom side. Got some vice grips on, then wiggled it back and forth, about 1/8th of a turn at the most, for a while to break the lock tite loose. Then stood there with a set of pliers backing it out at 1/8th turn. Took a while and had a sore hand, but got it out without any other damage.

Couldn't get a matching stainless bolt at any local hardware places, luckily the sea doo dealer had one for about $2. Slathered some right stuff on there, then bolted it back together. There should be a damn warning sticker for that jamb nut, lol!

[nmpeter]

Perhaps a sticky in the how to section is in order for this particular bear trap since you are not the first to step into it

Congrats on getting it out

Drilling something like that takes considerable skill given the location and an expensive bit

The easy out would likely have broken any way

Getting it out without needing stitches give you the rank of machinist mate second class in the New Mexico pwc navy

[Yoffer2490]

Thanks for all the replies. Wasn't having good luck drilling it for an easy out, so I undid a few hoses to get at it from the top side. The bolt was sheared almost flush with the nut plate, there was no grabbing it from the bottom side. Got some vice grips on, then wiggled it back and forth, about 1/8th of a turn at the most, for a while to break the lock tite loose. Then stood there with a set of pliers backing it out at 1/8th turn. Took a while and had a sore hand, but got it out without any other damage.

Couldn't get a matching stainless bolt at any local hardware places, luckily the sea doo dealer had one for about $2. Slathered some right stuff on there, then bolted it back together. There should be a damn warning sticker for that jamb nut, lol!

Next time you have a issue like that its easier to just pull the pump to clear debris. It takes maybe 10-15 minutes to pull the pump.