How-to: Pump Pulling - Wear Ring Swap - Prop Swapping

[Lil Mack]

Just a quick dive in to the "Freezer Trick"

As we know it is not really a trick just uses the expansion/contraction properties of most materials.
Just like water, metal and plastic expand when heated and contract when cooled.

The wear ring will shrink faster than the aluminum pump housing due to material and thickness.
So you freeze the whole housing to remove the wear ring.
To replace freeze the new wear ring but not the pump, the pump can be warmed if needed.

Same thing works on the stainless ring, but by heating the pump.
Heat the aluminum around the wear ring and it will expand faster than the stainless ring.
This is due to the pump housing heating faster than the ring, if needed cool the ring with a damp rag to
keep it from expanding as the pump is heated.

This can be used in the work shop on a lot of equipment and task. I have found this is the best way to
remove or install bearings and bearing races if the are hard to remove.

[SPulcer]

Here is a video of pwc winterizing. Towards the end of video the pump is pulled and cone removed. Check it out

[JP44]

Replacing wear ring without removing impeller

I don't want to double up on info, but there are so many different posts on here with different opinions. Here is my experience.

I have done this twice now. Once I sucked up a rock, once my father in law sucked up a rock. 2005 GTX SC. New style wear ring, blue, part # 267000419. Freezer trick did not work for me either time. I'm not saying it doesn't, I'm saying with the new style blue ring, it didn't work for me either taking the old one out, or putting the new one back in.

I didn't remove the impeller either time. I simply cut two slits at an angle in between two of the impeller blades using a sawzall blade with a handle. Be careful not to cut too far through the ring, as to not damage the housing. Once the pressure is relieved by making this cut, you can tap the old ring out from the back side with a long screwdriver and a hammer. Put the pump housing on the workbench and lean on it with the arm holding the screwdriver. This will keep it in place while tapping it out with the hammer in the other hand.

File down any rough spots on the impeller blades.

Lube up the outside of the new ring with some WD40, and pound it back into the pump housing with a heavy hammer and 2 x 4 block, or use a dead blow hammer like I did.

I had the pump pulled, old ring out, and new ring in, and pump re-installed in around two hours. Its not that hard, and I think a lot less screwing around then trying to remove the impeller as well. Doesn't require any special tools, or the icky feeling of using a cheater on a 12mm allen wrench!! Just my opinion. Good luck.

The ring in the pics wasn't gouged too bad from the rock. As long as I had it apart, I replaced it anyway. My last one was almost cut in half.

[brotu123]

Ok, so I saw the pics of the pump removal several pages back. Is it the same procedure for an 03 Sportster 4tec? It look like there is a little more hardware under the back of the boat? It does have the plastic housing so I should be able to use the freezer trick. Other than the post above, do I need to get some fancy tool for my impeller? it is the 155 obviously non sc, I don't know if that makes a difference with anything.

[nmpeter]

couple of things..I do alot of pump work here ( more then half of my shop load is rock ingestion here)

1-I use a sharp wood chisel, not a saw to cut a slot in the old ring..hold the chisel upside down makes it less likely to scar the housing.
2-buy a shop press..they are just too cheap not to have one. ( under $100 at harbor freight for something good enough to do a wear ring. (First time you miss with your hammer and wood blocks...) Those new blue wear rings area really stiff.
3-buy a 12mm 1/2 drive hex wrench. Autozone has a good set for under $20 ( 12/14/17) it's hard to find a wrench alone, since most of the world stops at 10mm. Big breaker bar (at least 24 inches)
4-prop wrench with matching socket..and a really good vise ( good in this case means solidly bolted to a bench..for kawasaki pumps you need a really good vise or the expensive drive shaft holder tool.

for first timers, take pictures AND notes about where stuff goes.( you can thank me later)

Follow best practices mechanically.

I'd really suggest buying a pressure testing nose cone ( nose cone with a barb fitting on it) and a small pop=off pump pump so you can check for leaks before final assembly ( contaminated grease is a sure sign of a leak)

scrape out the old grease and refill with fresh and try to force as much as you can into the bearing itself. Do not fill the tail cone 100%..you'll blow a seal for sure during assembly.
DO NOT remove the prop shaft from the hub

Use thread lock and tighten to spec. Newbies make the mistake of using anti-sieze and if the prop spins off the shaft, there is a really good chance you'll damage the thrust washers on the pto and maybe trash the engine too.

Don't reuse o-rings..that will come back and bite you in the ass before you know it.

Get the prop serviced. I use SBT..others prefer Impros..even a small bend with set up vibration winch can damage the carbon seal.

Wear googles if you are prying rocks ( like the one pictured)) out of the prop

Keep in mind what can happen if a wrench slips or a cheap socket breaks. Pull wrenches..never push

[brotu123]

Ok, got it all out, it appears that someone in the past installed a Solas into it. The new ring fits loose and when I tighten the set screws it get misshapen. I think the entire pump is on it's last leg. I will see how it performs this weekend, but there is a stong possibility that I will be swapping to a metal pump in the near future. Also what do I use to reseal the nose cone? Will black RTV work?

[nmpeter]

Also what do I use to reseal the nose cone? Will black RTV work?

No!..helps to read my post complete...if in doubt, replace the o-rings that provide a seal for the cone-cheap enough.

oh yeah..you need to carefully drill holes in the wear ring ( not all the way thru) to keep the set secrews from deforming the ring.

the ring is not a real snug fit on that pump, that's why there are 4 screws to keep it from spinning.

[brotu123]

I was not please at all with the plastic pump and wear ring fitment. So I went ahead and bought a brand new aluminum pump and plastic wear ring from BRP. I put my Solas into it and installed it into the boat tonight. I can't wait to see how it performs as the old ring was OEM and had 96 hours on it.

[Dothedoo_260]

Going to see if i replace the wear ring on my rxp-x 260. Would the removal process be the same as all the others or are there some slight differences with this one? Currently have it at the dealer and they are charging me $400+ to fix!!

[Green Hulk]

good video tutorial here

http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=216414

[twokexlv6coupe]

Currently replacing my wear ring, and so far it's only taken me like a 1/2hr to get this far due to this AWESOME tutorial, thanks boys!


But this is were I'm currently stuck; 3 outta the 4 studs holding the pump housing to the transom look like the first pic, i.e. not stuck.
But the last stud, second pic, it looks like there's liquid sealant/silicone in between the stud and hole, basically bonding the housing to the transom. I know this is what's holding me up cuz I can wiggle the housing about 1/8" everywhere else.
I've tried picking away at the sealant which is slow going, gently and carefully prying with a small crowbar, and putting the venturi with the two top bolts back on and pushing downwards to loosen the sealant on the top.
Any tips??

[Premix]

I'm inspecting a new-to-me 2011 Sea-Doo. This grease looks like it's in great condition. Does it look like enough grease to keep the bearings happy?

[nmpeter]

[ATTACH]457984[/ATTACH]
I’m inspecting a new-to-me 2011 Sea-Doo. This grease looks like it’s in great condition. Does it look like enough grease to keep the bearings happy?

I'd clean it all out replace the o-rings on the cone and repack it with fresh grease, since you're asking

opinions may vary of course

[Center87]

I'd clean it all out replace the o-rings on the cone and repack it with fresh grease, since you're asking

opinions may vary of course

I agree , although the grease does not look contaminated from the pictures it looks like a portion of the bearing has less grease and use new seals , just my two cents