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Maintenance Sealed Bearings Karavan Trailer

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  • What part number did you order for spare hub/bearing/cap/nut from Knott? I just got a pair of the single/doubles and want to have some spare parts since it looks like it's going to be hard to find stuff soon. Also, if anyone could send me some photos of how the rear of the trailer couples together I would really appreciate it. I'm going to have to fabricate the part myself. I was able to find the front part of the system but I can't find the rear coupler anywhere. Thanks!
    'Carl
    '19 GP1800R
    '00 SeaDoo GS
    '98 XL1200

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    • I wanted to contribute my recent experience since I was helped a lot by this thread...

      The hubs must be getting rare as the prices are no longer $40 that I could find, but Knott-Autoflex has some for $75 each shipped (they were out of stock for a month until this week.) Other sites had them for closer to $100.

      They offered the full replacement axle for $275 shipped which I took them up on, as the new axle uses a normal hub/bearing so I will be done with dealing with these silly failing sealed things for good! Part number is 6AB273.001, and they were very helpful over email and phone.

      David was the rep I worked with at
      [email protected]
      and he was quite helpful.

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      • $275 shipped is a steal. Throw up a picture when you get it. I might order one as a spare. I paid $125 or so for a complete hub to have as a spare since I have a pair of the double single trailers. Thanks!!!!
        'Carl
        '19 GP1800R
        '00 SeaDoo GS
        '98 XL1200

        Comment


        • After searching high and low for these hubs in Canada, my cheapest option ended up being just ordering them from Autoflex-Knott themselves.

          They are $79.99 USD each, $21 USD shipping to Toronto. Total was 235$ CAD.

          Now my question is, do I just pull the old nut off, pull the old hub off, put the new hub on and new nut to 207ft-lbs and good to go?

          Comment


          • Originally posted by TorontoDan
            Now my question is, do I just pull the old nut off, pull the old hub off, put the new hub on and new nut to 207ft-lbs and good to go?
            Yes, but make sure the surface on the axle that the oil seal of the bearing rides on isn't corroded. Use in salt water will cause this and if it isn't removed it will chew up the new seal.
            2018 GTR-X 230
            2004 STX-15F race ski revived in 2016
            1998 GTX-RFI-original owner

            Comment


            • Sorry, missed this... I agree by the time I was buying 2 hubs and mounting, I figured why not go all new and never have this problem again? Less than $100 more, and no issues if the current axle is corroded. Here’s a pic of the full axle already mounted.
              Attached Files

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              • Maintenance Sealed Bearings Karavan Trailer

                Originally posted by pro1200
                Yes, but make sure the surface on the axle that the oil seal of the bearing rides on isn't corroded. Use in salt water will cause this and if it isn't removed it will chew up the new seal.
                Sounds good. Will keep my eye out for that.
                Last edited by TorontoDan; 03-16-2021, 04:42 PM.

                Comment


                • For all of you that are looking for the sealed replacement bearings, they are the same as for Chevrolet Aveo (and other Daewoo as the Aveo was manufactured by them).

                  Bearing spec: 34x64x37
                  ID 34mm
                  OD 64mm
                  Width 37mm

                  Seal: 43.5x56x7
                  ID 43.5mm
                  OD 56mm
                  Width 7mm

                  Maybe some motorcycle seals fit although they 9-10mm width, or lookup on the web.

                  IMPORTANT IMPORTANT IMPORTANT
                  The spindle nut HAVE TO BE TORQUED to 207lbs/ft.
                  This spindles does not have a cutter pin to prevent the nut to came off. Therefore torque is extremely important. Use a new nut if available (doesn't have the spec) and clean the threads very well with solvent (no WD40) and apply red Lock Tite.

                  Comment


                  • I am actually looking if someone have retrofit these piece of s... to standard tapete bearings and hubs. Mine have one side that fail and although I know which bearings and seal to use, or can buy the hub kit from a few suppliers, I would rather retrofit to standard serviceable trailer bearings.

                    34mm ID is 1.3386” which is roughly smaller than 1-3/8” (1.375”). That is 0.0364” (0.925mm) difference. The issue I find is if there is a trailer hub 5x4.5” bolt and 1-3/8” straight spindle, and 37mm (1.4567”) width. Standard trailer hub are tapered with inner bearing at 1-3/8 and outer at 1-1/16, and width is 3.8”.

                    Comment


                    • I got caught off guard with this lousy bearing system. Luckily, the bearings locked up over the winter and I didn't break down on the road. But I'd rather not be fixing trailers in July heat.

                      There is plenty of rust inside what I thought was a waterproof system. I guess I should have read the dust cap, which clearly states "Knott Waterproof". Obviously a spelling error, but they are, as stated, not waterproof.

                      At this point, I just want to get the trailers back on the road as quickly and inexpensively as possible. I bought bearings for a Chevy Spark ($11 each from Rock Auto), and they fit perfectly. I cleaned up and re-used the C-Clip and the flange nut. I didn't install an inner grease seal and I will probably leave the dust cap off. From what I see, the seal and cap don't keep water out, but they do hold water in. I figure that by leaving these parts off, I can rinse the salt water after each use. Also, I can keep an eye on the flange nut and easily re-torque as needed.

                      I contacted Karavan and sent them a link to their promo video for these trailers, which clearly states "lifetime guarantee maintenance-free bearings". I'll just say that I was not thrilled with their response. I'd bet I would win a judgement in small claims court.

                      I also contacted Knott and got a response from David, who has been very helpful. The current price of the complete hub assembly is $105 shipped, but I'm not willing to spring for $400+ every time these bearings wear out. I'd rather spend the money to buy new axles with standard bearings. Knott doesn't currently stock or sell axles for these trailers, but they have the design spec and can make them. David is looking into whether they can make an axle with standard bearings. If this is possible, would anyone else be interested in buying them? I'm sure we'd get a better price for a larger order.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by grumpy_steven
                        I got caught off guard with this lousy bearing system. Luckily, the bearings locked up over the winter and I didn't break down on the road. But I'd rather not be fixing trailers in July heat.

                        There is plenty of rust inside what I thought was a waterproof system. I guess I should have read the dust cap, which clearly states "Knott Waterproof". Obviously a spelling error, but they are, as stated, not waterproof.

                        At this point, I just want to get the trailers back on the road as quickly and inexpensively as possible. I bought bearings for a Chevy Spark ($11 each from Rock Auto), and they fit perfectly. I cleaned up and re-used the C-Clip and the flange nut. I didn't install an inner grease seal and I will probably leave the dust cap off. From what I see, the seal and cap don't keep water out, but they do hold water in. I figure that by leaving these parts off, I can rinse the salt water after each use. Also, I can keep an eye on the flange nut and easily re-torque as needed.

                        I contacted Karavan and sent them a link to their promo video for these trailers, which clearly states "lifetime guarantee maintenance-free bearings". I'll just say that I was not thrilled with their response. I'd bet I would win a judgement in small claims court.

                        I also contacted Knott and got a response from David, who has been very helpful. The current price of the complete hub assembly is $105 shipped, but I'm not willing to spring for $400+ every time these bearings wear out. I'd rather spend the money to buy new axles with standard bearings. Knott doesn't currently stock or sell axles for these trailers, but they have the design spec and can make them. David is looking into whether they can make an axle with standard bearings. If this is possible, would anyone else be interested in buying them? I'm sure we'd get a better price for a larger order.

                        So what can you report was outcome of leaving dust cap off and rear seal off...helped any or just failed faster?

                        2013 GTR 215 & 2004 Polaris MSX 150

                        Comment


                        • Didn't leave them off. After going back and forth with David at Knott, he finally let me know that I could order the individual parts instead of the complete hub. When I asked why he didn't tell me in the first place, he said they offer the complete assembly because you need a shop press to get the old bearings out. It took some time to get the parts, but I finally got the trailers fixed.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by grumpy_steven
                            Didn't leave them off. After going back and forth with David at Knott, he finally let me know that I could order the individual parts instead of the complete hub. When I asked why he didn't tell me in the first place, he said they offer the complete assembly because you need a shop press to get the old bearings out. It took some time to get the parts, but I finally got the trailers fixed.
                            Ok yea I just left in anyways....don't really need a press I just hammer them out with socket.

                            Hubs I saw online were $160+ for just one...did for $30 in parts one hub. Should last a year or so..
                            2013 GTR 215 & 2004 Polaris MSX 150

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