Replace Seal? Triton LTWCII-X

[Thor]

'Lo all!

I took some time yesterday to grease-gun the old grease out and pump new Lucas Marine grease into the axle bearings of our 2019 Triton LTWCII-X and I was gut punched to see the old, 2-3 year old grease on the passenger (starboard) side come out a shade lighter green and noticeably less viscous than the driver side.

Hope-against-hope was dashed when the old, 2-3 year old grease on the driver's side came out just as dark green, thick and tacky as the new stuff going in - ugh

I looked back and found a note where the same difference was observed when I re-greased the same trailer's axle bearings back in 2019-20 (it's less than 10 miles one way from our storage spot and the ramp and we only dunk the trailer twice a year, at the beginning and end of each riding season) but, I had chalked that up to the removable rubber seal plug cap having a hairline crack in it.

THEN, when I looked on the inside of the wheel you can see where thin, liquidy grease is being slung all over the inside of the wheel and backside of the tire -

I am ASSuming a seal on the inside of the axle wheel needs replacing but, I have ZERO experience with axle bearings, etc (other than keeping them greased via the bearing buddy)

Q - How difficult is it to replace a seal on a Triton axle bearing?

Q - does it involve one part or a ÔÇ£kitÔÇØ or other ÔÇ£assemblyÔÇØ of parts?

Q - is there a part # and is it something I can get from someone like e-trailer or, do I have to get any parts from a Triton dealer?

Q - any chance there's a video on the step-by-step repair process?


Thanks in advance - this ÔÇ£Trailer forumÔÇØ here at GH.com is the best!

[K447]

I recently changed grease seal on one of my wheel hubs. Different axle than yours but overall probably the same process.

What is the brand and model of the axle? There may be a tag on the axle with that info.

Unless there is something unusual with your trailer the axle configuration is going to be fairly generic and the bearings and grease seal for the wheel hub will also be fairly standard.

Since your trailer does not have brakes you have the option of buying an entire replacement hub, complete with new bearings and new grease seal.

Or removing the old grease seal from your existing hub and installing just a new grease seal.

I will mention that before installing a new hub or new grease seal, you should clean all the old grease away after removing the hub. Then inspect the portion of the axle where the new grease seal lips will ride. You do not want to have the axle metal surface be grooved or pitted from corrosion, in the area where the seal will contact the axle.

If the axle is good, then proceed with the replacement. Plenty of YouTube videos and articles on how to R&R a simple light weight trailer hub. Or change the grease seal.

[Thor]

Good evening (morning?) @K447 and thanks!

I do believe there is a tag on the axle and I will look tomorrow morning to be sure and if so post a pic …

I see what you mean about inspecting the axle as I spent a bit of time this morning reading al 11 pages of this thread including the discovery of circumferential metal that needed polishing, emory, etc.: http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=184393

We have to pull the skis tomorrow and I will use the time to track down the parts for both options you lay out … in fact, I may just buy doubles of everything and that way I can address any future issues really quickly!

Also, going searching for those videos (man, I don’t know how I got half the stuff done I do without YouTube, haha!)

Thanks again and have a great Autumn!

[Team Bilford]

Hubs/bearings are the classic, I can show you in 5 mins or I can write about it for 20 mins......
Unless someone has installed an incorrect seal, you can skip checking for an axle or hub number and get the number off the seal.

Don't forget, when you have a weak or marginal inner seal, the pressure from the BB will cause it to leak some. I actually like that because it tells me the condition of the seal.

Are you wanting to replace the seal yourself or just looking for diagnostic help?

[K447]

-
I see what you mean about inspecting the axle as I spent a bit of time this morning reading al 11 pages of this thread including the discovery of circumferential metal that needed polishing, emory, etc.: http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=184393

-

The Karavan trailer in that thread has a weird (Knott?) axle that uses automotive car type bearings with seals, not the traditional trailer axle bearings and grease seals.

I expect your trailer has the normal trailer axles, hubs and grease seals.

[Thor]

Howdy, Team Bilford and thanks -

- LOL, I can relate to ^that^ as I often help buds w firearms maintenance and / or shot-shell reloading issues that fall under the same “umbrella.”

I was hoping I might find out any numbers on and actually source the correct seal (+/or entire hub assembly) ahead of time, in order to have it in hand when I pull the old … something satisfying about knocking a swap like this out withOUT having to run from store to store with a handful of “parts in a rag,” haha!

Oh, def looking to DIY / GDM (“GitrDoneMyself”) - just thought I’d minimize the OJT and any chance for surprises (aka - “Murphy” to rear his ugly head) by asking if anyone has replaced the seals on one of these newer Triton double ski trailers …

PLUS, one constant theme in this forum is it might be days or years before it occurs but, invariably, a thread question asked and ensuing responses wind up helping another / others down the road, even PREVENT / AVOID a bad situation. (I def fall into that category and I owe the members who’ve contributed to threads here a heckuva debt for the info, pictorials, part numbers and sources for parts they share as I can only imagine the problems I’ve averted because of the info sharing here!)

Diagnostics will be on me

[Thor]

The Karavan trailer in that thread has a weird (Knott?) axle that uses automotive car type bearings with seals, not the traditional trailer axle bearings and grease seals.

I expect your trailer has the normal trailer axles, hubs and grease seals.

Oh yes, I was RELIEVED to pick up on likelihood I am NOT dealing with that particular axle, etc. but, it is helpful for me at least knowing what I need to be prepared to look for (anything but a pristine, smooth surface for the seal to mate up to). Fingers crossed, hard!

[Thor]

Label(s) off axle -

[K447]

Looks like a straight-up normal trailer axle and wheel hubs.

Probably the typical 2000 pound rated axle with 1 1/16" bearings (inner and outer).

I forget the typical grease seal size designation but as posted previously the seal code should be stamped right into the existing seal face.

There are a few grease seal sizes that are quite common and every trailer parts supplier has them.

You might be able to clean away enough grease to read the code with the hub installed. Some brake cleaner and rag wiping should clrean up the area nicely.

Or just wing it and order the 'normal size' grease seal for a 2000 pound rated trailer axle.

Or buy the ready-to-install hub kit for a 2000 pound axle.

[Team Bilford]

double lip 1.5 ID, 1.98X for the OD. Install flush with the face of the hub. Do not recess it into the counterbore.

[conroe]

Seal, Reliable-SL-122-1 Timken-471750
Bearings L44649 Cup L44610
Also want to mention, had a problem with inner seal leaking once. Problem was when they welded the axel on, they left weld slag were the seal rode.

[Team Bilford]

Seal, Reliable-SL-122-1 Timken-471750
Bearings L44649 Cup L44610
Also want to mention, had a problem with inner seal leaking once. Problem was when they welded the axel on, they left weld slag were the seal rode.

I think his bearing track is 1.5 and will require Timken (National) 474276

I find Reliable to be the lowest quality of all axles out there. I have two of them on my Triton and rather than some slag, they scratched the seal track deeply and so that hub leaks since new. I polished it, but it will not clear up. They refused to send me an axle under warranty. Two other seal tracks were damaged by corrosion because the employee that put the hubs on tore the lips of the seal. Total nonsense, low bidder is what you get with a Triton.

[K447]

- scratched the seal track deeply and so that hub leaks since new. I polished it, but it will not clear up..

- Two other seal tracks were damaged by corrosion. ...

SKF Speedi-Sleeve can be used to repair the axle surface for the grease seal to seal properly.

https://www.skf.com/us/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve

I fashioned a longer installation tool (the SKF supplied tool is much too short to fit over the axle) using a section of ABS pipe and a drain adapter to match the Speedi-Sleeve.

There are competing products sold under different names. I have not used them.

[Thor]

Team Bilford!

Conroe!

K447!

Man, y’all ROCK! Thannnnnnnnk You!

Team Bilford just like you mentioned “5 mins to do, 20 mins to talk-walk another through it” I tend to agonize and overthink stuff the very first time I do it but, things speed up after that.

Thank yall for pointing me in the right direction, the only thing that exceeds my hope this thread helps some other “rider not-so-much-mechanic” is my gratitude for y’all sharing your knowledge!!!!!

[conroe]

I think his bearing track is 1.5 and will require Timken (National) 474276

I find Reliable to be the lowest quality of all axles out there. I have two of them on my Triton and rather than some slag, they scratched the seal track deeply and so that hub leaks since new. I polished it, but it will not clear up. They refused to send me an axle under warranty. Two other seal tracks were damaged by corrosion because the employee that put the hubs on tore the lips of the seal. Total nonsense, low bidder is what you get with a Triton.

Axel shaft is 1 1/16 Seal lip is 1 1/4"