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Setting and adjusting trailer bunk spacing to match your hull
I typically use either the inside to inside edge bunk spacing or the outside edge to outside edge measurement when setting up bunks. Center to center measurements are not very useful for bunks.
It usually takes a few tries to get the bunk spacing just right. You might be able to start by measuring the old trailer bunk spacing, and then eyeball how much more or less space you want on the new bunks to nicely fit the bunk boards against the hull. The idea is that the bunk boards support the hull in between the hull ridges (strakes/chines). Spread the bunk pressure across the 'flat' hull areas.
Sometimes you have a choice as to which set of hull strakes to fit the bunk boards in between. Generally (not a hard rule) I like to use the farther apart set of chines, if that will work well for the hull and the trailer. The wider bunk spacing makes the hull more stable during towing (less side to side bobble during hard road bounces) and sometimes the wider bunk spacing allows the hull to sit a little lower overall.
Look at what other knowledgable owners of the same hull are using for bunk spacing. That said, it is not unusual to see poorly configured trailers underneath nicely maintained watercraft with smart owners. For some reason trailers are often not paid much attention, unless or until the trailer causes a problem.
For most hulls (but not all) the bunk width spacing is the same front and rear. Be sure the bunks are not mis-aligned to the left or right, the measurement from bunk bracket to trailer side frame should be even on each side. Put another way, each bunk bracket should be the same distance from trailer center as the opposite side bracket.
One method you can use (carefully) when adjusting the bunks is to position the bow roller up snug under the nose lip of the hull, with the winch strap medium snug (routed under the bow roller, and on a Triton under the strap guide roller). Then use a floor jack and a flat board (to protect the ride plate) to lift up on the PWC ride plate (jack and board must be centered under the ride plate, width-wise). This will allow you to take all the weight off the bunk boards. Then loosen the adjustments and shift the brackets as needed. Snug the bracket bolts, lower the hull for a test fit. Repeat as needed until you get it just right.
Keep in mind that the trailer must not be able to roll around, so hook it up to your car. And put wheel chocks around the trailer wheels. The bow roller will be supporting a lot of weight so it might shift, keep your fingers away from the hull to bunk gap. We don't want any injuries if the hull drops or shifts!
Once you have the bunk spacing correct and the brackets are tightened in place, you can lower the hull and then experiment with winch tower position to tune the tongue weight. Sometimes it is necessary to increase the tongue weight (move the winch tower forward) in order to get the hull forward enough on the trailer that the rear hull overhang is minimal.
I typically use either the inside to inside edge bunk spacing or the outside edge to outside edge measurement when setting up bunks. Center to center measurements are not very useful for bunks.
It usually takes a few tries to get the bunk spacing just right. You might be able to start by measuring the old trailer bunk spacing, and then eyeball how much more or less space you want on the new bunks to nicely fit the bunk boards against the hull. The idea is that the bunk boards support the hull in between the hull ridges (strakes/chines). Spread the bunk pressure across the 'flat' hull areas.
Sometimes you have a choice as to which set of hull strakes to fit the bunk boards in between. Generally (not a hard rule) I like to use the farther apart set of chines, if that will work well for the hull and the trailer. The wider bunk spacing makes the hull more stable during towing (less side to side bobble during hard road bounces) and sometimes the wider bunk spacing allows the hull to sit a little lower overall.
Look at what other knowledgable owners of the same hull are using for bunk spacing. That said, it is not unusual to see poorly configured trailers underneath nicely maintained watercraft with smart owners. For some reason trailers are often not paid much attention, unless or until the trailer causes a problem.
For most hulls (but not all) the bunk width spacing is the same front and rear. Be sure the bunks are not mis-aligned to the left or right, the measurement from bunk bracket to trailer side frame should be even on each side. Put another way, each bunk bracket should be the same distance from trailer center as the opposite side bracket.
One method you can use (carefully) when adjusting the bunks is to position the bow roller up snug under the nose lip of the hull, with the winch strap medium snug (routed under the bow roller, and on a Triton under the strap guide roller). Then use a floor jack and a flat board (to protect the ride plate) to lift up on the PWC ride plate (jack and board must be centered under the ride plate, width-wise). This will allow you to take all the weight off the bunk boards. Then loosen the adjustments and shift the brackets as needed. Snug the bracket bolts, lower the hull for a test fit. Repeat as needed until you get it just right.
Keep in mind that the trailer must not be able to roll around, so hook it up to your car. And put wheel chocks around the trailer wheels. The bow roller will be supporting a lot of weight so it might shift, keep your fingers away from the hull to bunk gap. We don't want any injuries if the hull drops or shifts!
Once you have the bunk spacing correct and the brackets are tightened in place, you can lower the hull and then experiment with winch tower position to tune the tongue weight. Sometimes it is necessary to increase the tongue weight (move the winch tower forward) in order to get the hull forward enough on the trailer that the rear hull overhang is minimal.
Originally posted by Ericruiz911
. Anyways, going to be racing this weekend and will be stuck with my old trailer.
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