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Tip of the day: Transom plate sealing and truing

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  • #46
    FYI: It does have cavities/voids in the top area. Also, although mine had plenty of unbroken silicone around the entire area, there was still evidence of water leaking thru some of the hose connect areas.

    Originally posted by LT1GMC
    Quick question, does the FZR have the same cavities/molding voids in the top half of the transom plate? Looking at mine it looks too thin there to have a void. Mine has sealant bulging out all the way around the outside of the plate so I do not see a reason to pull it and reseal unless there are voids on it like that FX transom plate has.
    '18 GP1800, 85 mph Stage 2
    '09 FZS 82.5 mph, R3, ET LB, Fizzle, Farthing, stock quiet exhaust.
    '01 GPR, GK 1390, was 78.0 mph, sold to the competition, son, now 81.9 mph!
    '04 XLT 1200 was 62.2 mph, now 68.5 mph!
    '94 Blaster 781 46 carb 60 mph, found new home.
    '93 Superjet 760 twin carb 59.7 mph, gone, found new home.
    '99 XLL 1200, complete rebuild, runs 62.4 with SBT sleeved cyl's.
    '99 XLL 1200 #2, same as above, 63.0

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    • #47
      How big of a difference does this really make? ill be having my prop changed this week and wondering if i should pay to get this sorted or not..
      ​2009 FX SHO:
      Jims SHO Rideplate
      RIVA Air Intake

      RIVA Stock Intercooler Upgrade Kit
      RIVA Intake Manifold Upgrade Kit
      RIVA Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit
      Solas DynaFly 13/22R Impeller
      RIVA Rear Thru Hull Exhaust Kit
      R & D R2 Reflash
      HKS Super SQV BOV

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      • #48
        I think that you can only do it to FZR or FZS it's not recommended to the FX-SHO just be sure to ask around the forum.
        09 Yamaha FZ: Pretty much stock. R3,with a few bolt on parts.
        $50 shipped Prop Gauges 17*-30* Trailing Edge Angles-->http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=192245

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        • #49
          It can be done to a fx sho also the transoms r the same on both the sho and the fz!

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          • #50
            bump for a good thread
            Save money on your pwc performance parts! Use the discount code: greenhulk when completing the checkout process in the GREENHULK PWC Performance Store and save 10% off the listed price of MOST Riva Racing and ALL WORX Racing Products. We also offer Fizzle Racing, MaptunerX tuning bundle packages, and instant download tuning licenses at discounted prices.

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            • #51
              Thanks for an informative post Jerry

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              • #52
                Originally posted by nige
                Thanks for an informative post Jerry
                your welcome Nigel!
                Save money on your pwc performance parts! Use the discount code: greenhulk when completing the checkout process in the GREENHULK PWC Performance Store and save 10% off the listed price of MOST Riva Racing and ALL WORX Racing Products. We also offer Fizzle Racing, MaptunerX tuning bundle packages, and instant download tuning licenses at discounted prices.

                Shop now! www.greenhulkstore.com​​
                Contact us! [email protected]
                Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/GreenHulkPWCPerformanceStore

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                • #53
                  TTT

                  good info,getting voids filled and re seal as doing coco's at moment
                  It's not fun, its R&D

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                  • #54
                    Ttt. Needs more attention

                    Mines out waiting on epoxy from West systems. Will be going to look at flapper Sanders today.

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by bryantjopplin
                      Ttt. Needs more attention

                      Mines out waiting on epoxy from West systems. Will be going to look at flapper Sanders today.
                      +1 Great mod-wish it had been the first thing I did. I filled mine with West Systems Six-10 leftover from the pump tunnel reinforcement. This isn't only important for sealing but also for alignment, my transom like others sagged at the factory and was hanging down. Now it's wedged up tight against the alignment tabs.
                      Attached Files
                      2013 Premier Sunsation 220 SL, 200 hp Etec 200 HO
                      2009 Yamaha FZR 82mph SOLD

                      Riva, R&D, Jim's Performance, Lucky 13 Performance parts

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                      • #56
                        ive read almost every transom leaking thread and im not scared but i do need to re-seal my brand new 15 fz unfortunately... i can handle everything mentioned here intake/transom etc. only thing i didnt see mentioned was about the plates on the inside of the hull that the nuts screw down on. are you people removing them cleaning/resealing them as well? Id ASSUME you don't have to do anything with the inside once you got the outside sealed up nice and tight but just figured id ask.

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                        • #57
                          When I did the transom on my 2014 svho I didn't seal the backing plates up. I just put them back on dry like they were from factory
                          87.3mph/140.5kph @ 8640rpm 2014 Fzs Svho
                          80.3 mph/129kph @ 8350rpm Gp 1800 CC setup

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                          • #58
                            Also while you have the transom off and are in the process of resealing things, Id do the intake grate and ride plate mounts to the Riva billit ones. I did them and they are very nice.

                            2015 ultra 310r
                            Scom, Air mods--72.9


                            2013 FZR--- 85.7 Sold

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                            • #59

                              Any reason to add sealer down the sides into the tunnel area like it looks like there was before? Or maybe thats just excess that ended up there once everything got tightened down and squeezed around?

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                              • #60
                                I just sealed my transom, I'll take some pics of the extent of my sealant and post pics later tonight. Factory caulking came off super easy with flat razor blade, then some goof off or goo gone (I forgot which) but that really made it much easier to remove the white caulking. Cleaned with acetone, roughened up with #100 sandpaper (both transom and hull)(I wasn't comfortable with #80), cleaned with acetone and then applied liberally 3M 4200 (both sides, I despise #5200 , 4200 is much easier to work with (removing excess and to remove parts in the future)(note: look for build date on tube, expires 1 year after that). Still have some cleaning to do but you get the idea, I'm trying to have all voids filled.
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                                Last edited by badjoka; 08-03-2015, 08:10 PM.
                                09 FZR Stage 3

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