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Tip of the day: Transom plate sealing and truing
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well i open up my sho my pump set up is riva grate used the flap disk to open it up to match my 158mm pump and i have a lucky 13 cone with pump wedge. This setup works great with no overstuff.👍 1Leave a comment:
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I finished up all the blue printing on my grate & transom plate on my SHO & was getting a nasty buck at ~69mph on every run. I've run the same angle on Jim's R&D plate(shimmed .095 on the rear) with the same prop I had on today & could easily run 73+ before opening up the shoe section of the Riva grate to mate properly with the TP. It's definately stuffing more water now. I did the testing on a stock ECU, & since I was bumping the limiter the last time out with this setup with a 83mm ring I had the 82 in this time. My rpm was 7600 with a true 155 YS-DF 15/22 which has way more root angle than the Riva DF, so I was kind of surprised to get a buck with this prop. Hopefully the fix is simple...more rpm & a bigger nozzle ring. I'm going to try it tomorrow with my R2 ECU & 85 ring.
The SHO doesn't buck & hook violently like a GPR when it overstuffs, but if your not prepared for it you can still get hurt. Just a warning for anyone wanting to try this mod on a SHO with stock ECU.Leave a comment:
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Anyone in Miami want to do mines. Hey jim wanna do mines when you cut my plate.Leave a comment:
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I just sealed my transom, I'll take some pics of the extent of my sealant and post pics later tonight. Factory caulking came off super easy with flat razor blade, then some goof off or goo gone (I forgot which) but that really made it much easier to remove the white caulking. Cleaned with acetone, roughened up with #100 sandpaper (both transom and hull)(I wasn't comfortable with #80), cleaned with acetone and then applied liberally 3M 4200 (both sides, I despise #5200, 4200 is much easier to work with (removing excess and to remove parts in the future)(note: look for build date on tube, expires 1 year after that). Still have some cleaning to do but you get the idea, I'm trying to have all voids filled.
.Last edited by badjoka; 08-03-2015, 08:10 PM.Leave a comment:
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Any reason to add sealer down the sides into the tunnel area like it looks like there was before? Or maybe thats just excess that ended up there once everything got tightened down and squeezed around?Leave a comment:
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Also while you have the transom off and are in the process of resealing things, Id do the intake grate and ride plate mounts to the Riva billit ones. I did them and they are very nice.
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When I did the transom on my 2014 svho I didn't seal the backing plates up. I just put them back on dry like they were from factoryLeave a comment:
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ive read almost every transom leaking thread and im not scared but i do need to re-seal my brand new 15 fz unfortunately... i can handle everything mentioned here intake/transom etc. only thing i didnt see mentioned was about the plates on the inside of the hull that the nuts screw down on. are you people removing them cleaning/resealing them as well? Id ASSUME you don't have to do anything with the inside once you got the outside sealed up nice and tight but just figured id ask.Leave a comment:
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Ttt. Needs more attention
Mines out waiting on epoxy from West systems. Will be going to look at flapper Sanders today.👍 1Leave a comment:
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TTT
good info,getting voids filled and re seal as doing coco's at moment👍 1Leave a comment:
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