How to change a supercharger clutch explained

[corkycat]

as a few of you know i recently blew my s/c clutch, i have decided to post up a how to both for future reference (as it will go again) and also for those that are wary about the job, this is the same basis as ALLSTAR,s thread so you can use both threads for cross reference here goes..
firstly the job itself is very straight forward, i was a bit wary at first as to the depth of the job as i had read others say it was hard and you need plenty of beer ect ect, but once i started getting into it i realized all was plain sailing..
there are in my opinion only 2 fidly parts to doing this job, all will be explained bellow.

A replacement clutch can be purchased here in the greenhulk forums store

https://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_82_163&products_id=2747

so firstly remove the air filter ect ect then remove the supercharger assembly
then looking at pics 2 and 3 you will need to remove the oil feed pipe you will get the one out above the oil pump fine but the one round the side of the engine is a little bit tight this is one of the tricky jobs i used a 12mm ratchet spanner to undo and removed the breather hose next to it out of the way.

[corkycat]

ok now you are ready to remove the oil pump (make sure you have removed the oil from the engine) most of the 12 allen bolts can be got at with ease but there are 2 that you can not see, i strongly recomend using an angled inspection mirror to remove the oil pump as i guarantee it will cut the removal time in half as you can see by the pic of the mirror showing the bolts these bolts are difficult to locate without a mirror, once all these 12 bolts are removed you can carefully remove the oilpump from the engine, i had to use a small bar to prize it off as the gasget had stuck solid but once it moved the pump came off with ease

[corkycat]

so looking here you will now have removed the oilpump and emptied the remaining oil you could not get out into your hull as you can see the gasget will break upon removal, i used a stanley blade and some carb cleaner to remove the gasget.
pic 2 shows the clutch asembly once you have removed the oil pump, notice the bolt in the middle this is the bolt with all the snapping horror stories, i ordered a new one just in case but there is no need just dont ovr tighten when reinstalling remember it is left handed thread pic 3 shows the oilway pin you need to remove to get the top set of cogs out, this just slides out of the hole

[corkycat]

so you can see here me removing the oilpin that holds the top cogs put this safe and also clean any oil from the inside and also the oilway hole in the middle of it. now carefully remove the cogs clean these off also and place in a safe place as there are small roller bearings inside and you dont want any dust ect ect getting in. then you can use your $90 rip off aluminium tool to lock the clutch cogs while you remove the centre bolt, once this is removed you can take out the clutch as seen above and clean it ready to strip it down.

[corkycat]

these 2 pics just show the clutch assembly you will need sirclip pliers to strip it down make sure you clean it properly prior to reasembly, if i can give any advice i will say purchase the full clutch assembly new and just install the full new unit as the shaft gets pitted and although i only changed the clutch itself i think having pitting on the shaft will reduce the life of the new clutch.

[corkycat]

reinstall all parts in reverse to the thread, remember to read the manual as this gives you torque settings, and remember to prime the oilpump prior to reinstalling. this is explained in the manual. the rubber 0 rings that yamaha say are needed to be replaced in my opinion do not, i purchased the 4 needed but have not replaced them, if they had been damaged then i would obviously replace but there really is no need, the oilpump gasget will need to be replaced as do the 4 seal washers for the oilline, these are just aluminium washers but have a card type gasget on each side to stop oil leaks. the whole job took roughly 5 hrs in total and on a scale of 1-10 i think this job is about a 4 i recon next time i could do the full job in less than 3 hrs

[Briangsxr1000]

def great info in this thread!

[5001craig]

Thanks for the info corkycat.

I was a bit intimidated with this job when mine went out and after reading your thread (and watching Duke and Additcted replace mine at 1 in the morning) I feel I would tackle it myself next time.

[Awamori]

Well done! This needs to be a sticky for sure. Thanks as I'm about to head this direction soon if Yamaha charges too much to do it for me.

[corkycat]

no need to go to the dealer just do it yourself, all you need is a good socket set, a set of allen keys to get the 2 bolts that are tricky, an adjustable inspection mirror, a large mirror you can lean against the fuel tank while removing the gasget of the engine, a torque wrench, a pair of circlip pliers, plenty of rags, some brake cleaner or carburettor cleaner for cleaning all parts when removed.

here is a tip and i recomend doing it, when reinstalling the clutch assembly the manual says to lubricate this, hold the assembly in your hand and pour plenty of engine oil onto the bearings then with the other hand turn the cogs to work the oil in. then once all is assembled in the engine and the top cogs are replaced pour engine oil directly over the cogs (only once the oil pump is assembled in place) this will lubricate all these parts on startup, i poured 1 littre of oil in here before i filled the engine to level.

regards mark

[c.raul]

hey thnx for the info my clutch just went out this weekend and now i have to change the dam thing .

[adamos]

Thanks for the info!

[allstar71]

I recommend replacing these o-rings. The first time the dealer fixed my clutch under warranty and they did not replace these.... My hull was full of oil pouring out around where the o-rings go. Just a word of advise...its not like they cost anything...may save you a couple bucks but I would do just as Yamaha suggests.

-David

reinstall all parts in reverse to the thread, remember to read the manual as this gives you torque settings, and remember to prime the oilpump prior to reinstalling. this is explained in the manual. the rubber 0 rings that yamaha say are needed to be replaced in my opinion do not, i purchased the 4 needed but have not replaced them, if they had been damaged then i would obviously replace but there really is no need, the oilpump gasget will need to be replaced as do the 4 seal washers for the oilline, these are just aluminium washers but have a card type gasget on each side to stop oil leaks. the whole job took roughly 5 hrs in total and on a scale of 1-10 i think this job is about a 4 i recon next time i could do the full job in less than 3 hrs

[SHOBiz]

I recommend replacing these o-rings. The first time the dealer fixed my clutch under warranty and they did not replace these.... My hull was full of oil pouring out around where the o-rings go. Just a word of advise...its not like they cost anything...may save you a couple bucks but I would do just as Yamaha suggests.

-David

+1

[MR MAC]

fantastic thread mate.... i know who to call when i clock up 60hours as that seams to be the average life of these