Tweet
DIY Water Temp resistor.
When using the jetworks mod some drill and tap into the stinger and relocate the water temp sensor, some zip tie the sensor to the stinger, and some do away with the sensor altogether and install a resistor chip.
Parts:
sacrificial water temp sensor (for the plastic plug)
1-10K 1/2 watt resistor
1/2 heat shrink sleeve/tubing
epoxy: JB weld regular (not fast cure)
clear silicone
small zip tie
Tools:
medium crescent wrench.
small pic
small blade driver
needle nose pliers (or like)
razor knife
cutter
soldering iron
thin solder
heat gun, source
Note how the electrical pins/sockets sit in the plastic connector. Use pic or suitable tool to release the plastic tabs and remove the pin/sockets from the connector. Cut the wires about 1/2 from pins. The crimps on the pin/sockets were so tight I found it easier to pull the wires out one strand at a time. This made a little room to work the crimps open. Be careful not to distort or ruin the pins/sockets. I used the small anvil on my vice to lay the pin/socket so the crimp end that grab the little rubber seals over hang the anvil, then used a utility knife and small sharp blade driver to open the crimp just enough to lay the resistor wire in the groove made by separating the crimp. Before inserting the resistor wire in the pin/socket, push on the little rubber seal as noted before removal. Once the resistor wire is between the crimp solder as necc. be careful with the heat so it doesn`t transfer all into the resistor itself. Repeat other leg of resistor with remaining pin/socket.
Once completed and cooled, push the rubber seals back into pin/sockets and gently bend tabs around the seal to secure. Shape the wire, orient the pin/sockets as noted before and insert back into the plastic connector until it clicks into place. Using clear silicone, apply silicone into end on top of seals across the plastic connector. Let sit and fully cure, this will prevent epoxy from settling down into the connector and pin sockets making this project useless...
Measure and cut the 1/2" heat shrink sleeve/tubing just long enough to go past resistor a good 1/4 inch. Work the shrink tubing down onto the plastic connector as shown in the pic. You don`t want to cover up the locking tab area. secure the heat shrink tubing with a small zip tie. I used the jaws on the crescent wrench to shape/hold the heat shrink tubing oval and symmetrical to plastic connector. Depending on what size wrench and what you need to hold the wrench elevated, I found using 2 rolls of masking tape did the trick to hold up the crescent wrench.
Ok, with the resistor/chip vertical in the jaws of the wrench, mix up enough epoxy (JB Weld) to fill the void completely. I chose the regular mix so you have time to spoon the epoxy in the hole. Take your small flat blade driver and slowly spoon the epoxy into the hole. Use a paper clip or small pic to push down the epoxy to reduce the chance of air bubbles. Once this is completed and filled to the top, use a scrapper or razor blade to gently scrape along the top to make it flat. Let the epoxy cure full, most likely 24 hours or so.
You will see some of the epoxy drip out of the bottom between the heat shrink and the plastic connector, you can take the tip of your razor knife or exacto knife and gently scrape away the excess after a few hours of curing. The epoxy will not stick/adhere to the plastic connector.
After the epoxy is solid, remove from the jaws of the wrench, cut the zip tie, clean up any excess epoxy from the plastic connector, work slow, then apply heat to shrink the heat shrink tubing just a little. I used marine grade bc it has the glue/sealer inside the tubing. When you see the adhesive/sealer from the heat shrink start to come out of the ends, Stop! After it cools down clean up the end with a file, sand paper or whizzer until square and straight or leave it alone if you desire...
This is just one approach to making a home made resistor chip. Description sounds lengthy but it was a fun simple project...
When using the jetworks mod some drill and tap into the stinger and relocate the water temp sensor, some zip tie the sensor to the stinger, and some do away with the sensor altogether and install a resistor chip.
Parts:
sacrificial water temp sensor (for the plastic plug)
1-10K 1/2 watt resistor
1/2 heat shrink sleeve/tubing
epoxy: JB weld regular (not fast cure)
clear silicone
small zip tie
Tools:
medium crescent wrench.
small pic
small blade driver
needle nose pliers (or like)
razor knife
cutter
soldering iron
thin solder
heat gun, source
Note how the electrical pins/sockets sit in the plastic connector. Use pic or suitable tool to release the plastic tabs and remove the pin/sockets from the connector. Cut the wires about 1/2 from pins. The crimps on the pin/sockets were so tight I found it easier to pull the wires out one strand at a time. This made a little room to work the crimps open. Be careful not to distort or ruin the pins/sockets. I used the small anvil on my vice to lay the pin/socket so the crimp end that grab the little rubber seals over hang the anvil, then used a utility knife and small sharp blade driver to open the crimp just enough to lay the resistor wire in the groove made by separating the crimp. Before inserting the resistor wire in the pin/socket, push on the little rubber seal as noted before removal. Once the resistor wire is between the crimp solder as necc. be careful with the heat so it doesn`t transfer all into the resistor itself. Repeat other leg of resistor with remaining pin/socket.
Once completed and cooled, push the rubber seals back into pin/sockets and gently bend tabs around the seal to secure. Shape the wire, orient the pin/sockets as noted before and insert back into the plastic connector until it clicks into place. Using clear silicone, apply silicone into end on top of seals across the plastic connector. Let sit and fully cure, this will prevent epoxy from settling down into the connector and pin sockets making this project useless...
Measure and cut the 1/2" heat shrink sleeve/tubing just long enough to go past resistor a good 1/4 inch. Work the shrink tubing down onto the plastic connector as shown in the pic. You don`t want to cover up the locking tab area. secure the heat shrink tubing with a small zip tie. I used the jaws on the crescent wrench to shape/hold the heat shrink tubing oval and symmetrical to plastic connector. Depending on what size wrench and what you need to hold the wrench elevated, I found using 2 rolls of masking tape did the trick to hold up the crescent wrench.
Ok, with the resistor/chip vertical in the jaws of the wrench, mix up enough epoxy (JB Weld) to fill the void completely. I chose the regular mix so you have time to spoon the epoxy in the hole. Take your small flat blade driver and slowly spoon the epoxy into the hole. Use a paper clip or small pic to push down the epoxy to reduce the chance of air bubbles. Once this is completed and filled to the top, use a scrapper or razor blade to gently scrape along the top to make it flat. Let the epoxy cure full, most likely 24 hours or so.
You will see some of the epoxy drip out of the bottom between the heat shrink and the plastic connector, you can take the tip of your razor knife or exacto knife and gently scrape away the excess after a few hours of curing. The epoxy will not stick/adhere to the plastic connector.
After the epoxy is solid, remove from the jaws of the wrench, cut the zip tie, clean up any excess epoxy from the plastic connector, work slow, then apply heat to shrink the heat shrink tubing just a little. I used marine grade bc it has the glue/sealer inside the tubing. When you see the adhesive/sealer from the heat shrink start to come out of the ends, Stop! After it cools down clean up the end with a file, sand paper or whizzer until square and straight or leave it alone if you desire...
This is just one approach to making a home made resistor chip. Description sounds lengthy but it was a fun simple project...
Comment