Above Forum Ads

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

GPR Crank installation and crankcase sealing

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Robb235
    replied
    I know OsideBill is no longer with us, but hopefully someone can answer my question...

    Instead of coating the front and rear oil seals with marine grease, I filled the grooves in the cases with the Three Bond. Did I screw up? I've already put the cases back together again...

    Leave a comment:


  • Roberd42
    replied
    There are indents in the top case half mating surface for one pin on the pto bearing, three pins each on the rod bearings, then a single pin in the center of the mag end bearing to line up the oil journal. He said to make sure the pins are upward on the bearings so you can roll them into their slots. If they aren't above the case half theres no way to get the pins in the slots.

    as for the alignment pins, there are only two.

    Leave a comment:


  • tejhummer
    replied
    Originally posted by OsideBill
    Now it is time to install the crank.
    Make sure when you drop it in that the front bearing alignment hole is in the correct position and the center bearing pins are facing up.
    Align the remaining bearing alignment pins in their respective slots once you drop the crank in.

    Set the assembly aside for now.
    Do all of the bearings have little spaces that the pins turn into? You said that the center ones turn upwards? Please explain. Great Write up BTW.
    And how many alignment pins are there? Just two?
    Great Write up BTW.

    Leave a comment:


  • WFO
    replied
    Originally posted by Rum Runner
    It there any way to install the new crank without taking apart the top end?
    no

    rods dont come off the crank

    Leave a comment:


  • Rum Runner
    replied
    It there any way to install the new crank without taking apart the top end?

    Leave a comment:


  • Snider1226
    replied
    Great info just rebuilding my crank on 1200 gp thanks for the help and great pics

    Leave a comment:


  • OsideBill
    replied
    Originally posted by srjrinc
    SWEET post! I will be doing the same on my 03 xlt this week... How do you know or check for high spots? Shouldn't the matting surfaces be smooth, not lightly sanded??????
    The mating surface is smooth, I do not sand the surface. I only address "high spots" that will hinder the surface from mating fully. any time metal is dinged, scratched, etc it raises material. I remove only the raised material that is why I used a honing or sharpening stone for this. A fine file will do the same thing to remove high spots, the trick is to not be aggressive, only remove high spots not base material.

    Leave a comment:


  • srjrinc
    replied
    SWEET post! I will be doing the same on my 03 xlt this week... How do you know or check for high spots? Shouldn't the matting surfaces be smooth, not lightly sanded??????

    Leave a comment:


  • tippensba
    replied
    wrong word i ment write.

    Fixed it. Great post. Hope you can help.
    Last edited by tippensba; 08-28-2012, 09:40 AM. Reason: new to site trying to figure it out.

    Leave a comment:


  • tippensba
    replied
    Crank seal help

    Hi. Thanks for writing a great tutorial on this subject. I'm new to the watercraft world and have little engine experience. I am ready to put the crank in and my crank case back together. I have one question about what you mean when you wrote this " I fill the inner portion of the seal with some waterproof marine grease, and wipe a little on the*crank*surface.Then I install the seals, I lightly coat the outside of the seal with some grease to aid in*sealing*as well". Thanks for your help. Brad. I figured out you can edit after the post has been submitted. Ill try to delete my next post.
    Last edited by tippensba; 08-28-2012, 09:33 AM. Reason: wrong word used.

    Leave a comment:


  • OsideBill
    replied
    Originally posted by CJ River Rider
    Thanks again, I'm using your thread and the shop manual to put back together my GP1200 case. Got the threads cleaned out with the taps as you show and after I wash the case and clean the mating surfaces with carb cleaner, I'll run/check over the mating surfaces with a straight edge. Hopefully I won't need the stone.
    A fine file held flat will knock down high spots as well. I always worry recommending files as people can get carried away and remove too much material. Thats why I used the stone in my build. any knife sharpening stone will work as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Reaper
    replied
    Very nice write-up. Doing this same thing this weekend
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • CJ River Rider
    replied
    Originally posted by OsideBill
    Remember this is a cleaning operation to make sure there are no high spots, the goal is to only remove material that has been raised from being dinged or dented.
    Thanks again, I'm using your thread and the shop manual to put back together my GP1200 case. Got the threads cleaned out with the taps as you show and after I wash the case and clean the mating surfaces with carb cleaner, I'll run/check over the mating surfaces with a straight edge. Hopefully I won't need the stone.

    Leave a comment:


  • OsideBill
    replied
    Remember this is a cleaning operation to make sure there are no high spots, the goal is to only remove material that has been raised from being dinged or dented.

    Leave a comment:


  • CJ River Rider
    replied
    Originally posted by OsideBill
    sure is
    Thank you

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X
😀
🥰
🤢
😎
😡
👍
👎