Pump tunnel reinforcement Install (Pre-Fab)

[steffi69]

First and foremost. Seal your pump shoe first!!!!! There are several threads on this. Now once this is done and cured we can begin the tunnel reinforcement install.

i have to seal the shoe but i can t find what to do, where is the thread for this please?

[spud]

First and foremost. Seal your pump shoe first!!!!! There are several threads on this. Now once this is done and cured we can begin the tunnel reinforcement install.

i have to seal the shoe but i can t find what to do, where is the thread for this please?

The reason the shoe needs sealed first is because the factory inserts that are by the tunnel align the pump shoe properly. Once the pump shoe is sealed in place then do the tunnel reinforcement. If you try to do them both at the same time the geometry of the tunnel will push the pump shoe forward. If you do this make sure to put the intake grate in while the 5200 is still wet. Add some shims to keep enough clearance to get the grate in and out. There used to be threads all over about sealing your pump shoe. We would buy the pump plug kit and use alot of 5200. You bolt it in with 5200 squeezing out from all the areas. Tighten it good and make sure it isn't hanging down at all. You need a lot between the shoe and the transom plate. Be sure you dry fit the pump plug kit in your shoe and that the rubber pieces are flush or slightly recessed into the pump shoe. The rubber plugs if oversize will not let you get the shoe up into the hull enough. Make sure the shoe is as far back and up in the hull as possible.

[jlink]

Thank you for this write up! Made it a much more successful mod because of your help!

[bgruhn76]

My 04 GP13 sunk 1/2 way over the weekend, and this is about the only thing I can figure happened. I will be dismantling her this week. will be ordering Jorge's piece regardless...since it seems this is a common issue anyway. Thank you for this excellent write up, and I will be referrencing it frequently I'm sure.

[silvercrxsir]

I might have a better adhesive suggestion,I have been using 3m 8115 panel bonding adhesive for years,its made to bond smc,steel,alum,fiberglass,and plastic and this glue is made to bond panels to cars instead of welding.its bonds so well,that I overlapped 2 pieces of sheet metal together and attached a clamp to each side and pulled them on a frame rack using 10 ton rams and the metal ripped.this is some seriously strong glue

[Predator-x]

I??m ready to seal the pump shoe and add the tunnel reinforcement ,but 3M 5200 FC is hard to get in the Netherlands.
The common brand they sell is Sikaflex 292 ,is this a good replacement for the 5200 ?
Sikaflex 292 Tensile Strength 500 psi.
3M 5200 FC Tensile Strength 700 psi

[LT1GMC]

An easier and perhaps better bonding system is the Six-10 system by West. It is a 2 part marine epoxy, especially designed for bonding parts on boats etc. One thing that is nice it is SO MUCH less messy than 5200. Easy to clean up, sets up in 24, and is really hard and tough. I think 5200 is great for sealing, but I just used this stuff on the recommendation of some of the guys on the 4 stroke side to do the tunnel reinforcement on my FZS and I am pleased I did. It comes in a tube with a special mixing attachment that mixes the two parts in the nozle and uses a common caulking gun. I got mine from Jamestown Distributors.

[WFO]

Use marine tex to bond the reinforcement to the hull, and 5200fc, 4200fc, or sikaflex to glue the brackets in.
Dont forget to seal the shoe too with 5200, 4200, or sikaflex (I prefer 5200fc)

Ive done over 50 of these, trying every type of sealant and epoxy imaginable, and the above works best

[WFO]

.

[Predator-x]

An easier and perhaps better bonding system is the Six-10 system by West. It is a 2 part marine epoxy, especially designed for bonding parts on boats etc. One thing that is nice it is SO MUCH less messy than 5200. Easy to clean up, sets up in 24, and is really hard and tough. I think 5200 is great for sealing, but I just used this stuff on the recommendation of some of the guys on the 4 stroke side to do the tunnel reinforcement on my FZS and I am pleased I did. It comes in a tube with a special mixing attachment that mixes the two parts in the nozle and uses a common caulking gun. I got mine from Jamestown Distributors.

I know but the most brands you guys are using are not available in the Netherlands ,so i have to search for a alternative .
Sikaflex is the most promised adhesive in my country, so i better follow WFO and use marine tex and sikaflex for a good result.

[LT1GMC]

That is a proven method, can't go wrong going that route.

[saro13b]

this makes it so easy. thanks

[turbochargeddad]

I know this thread is old but...

Here it is as promised.

I know everybody has an opinion on these this is how I do it.
Seal your pump shoe first.

This is a great thread and I know it's old as hell. But I have to ask the question.

What year make model did you do this on?
What is the relevance to sealing the shoe first?

I have a 2003 GP1300R that I am going to have to perform repairs to because the update was never installed. If I understand why you are directing people to seal the pump shoe first correctly. I'm not sure it would apply to me because my shoe is already pulling through the hull and has been glued back in my the PO.

I also can't find a part # for the brackets for the 03 GP1300R.

Advice tips and tricks are appreciated.

Thanks,
TCD

[Gabagool984]

So I'm attempting to do this now and the thread has been EXTREMELY helpful. Idk if I would have gotten this far as a novice without it. I had to marine Tex the outside and inside due to a Cobb job from someone who had the ski previously. I'm all Tex'd and sanded and ready for drilling.

My question is, has anyone come to a conclusion how much of the rear of these brackets have to get shaved off? I ordered the ones from the green hulk store and I don't have the means to have them machined. So, I'm sitting here with sandpaper just about hating life right now lol.

Thanks in advance!