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**jet ski o'clock** · 01-10-2009, 10:59 PM

thanks i will

**DrewNJ** · 01-14-2009, 10:35 PM

I've got a couple pics of a set of nice salt water carbs that I'm finishing up now for a basket case ski I picked up to jump with this year

. Nice sand/salt crystal mixture. I also had that same gel gunk inside. I think it has something to do with moisture and possibly ethanol.
Lucky for me I only had one needle that was froze..

Oh, and beautiful work Bill!! I got to see your work first hand on a set you sent to TJ toward the end of the summer. Definately top notch bro'.
Doug

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**OsideBill** · 01-14-2009, 10:48 PM

Wow Doug those were a mess. I am sure you will have them looking spiffy in no time.

I had a set of GP carbs that were pretty corroded externaly, inside they were fine. I did a little cleaning and then I am applying chem-film for corrosion resistance then painting.

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**Flying Scotsman** · 01-15-2009, 05:47 PM

Verry nice Bill.........

**Fairway** · 04-06-2009, 08:31 PM

98 GP1200W Corroded carbs

98 GP1200W. I run on lake but the ski was from coast and salt water took its toal. Serious corrosion in carbs (see pic). Soaked them for 2 weeks. Seized screws through out. Impact Driver, stripped heads, busted bolts, finally got dis-assembled. Seating grooves for diaphrams highly corroded.

Anyway, cleaned best effort installed kits. Did not adjust arms as did not know gap setting and installed as received in kit. Also diaphram seating groove on one carb was cratered badly.

Started right up adjusted idle and took her out. Ran smooth and strong (92Kmh). Ran on lake for about 20 minutes (still cold here). Back to the ramp then to the house. Notice heavy raw gas smell and noted small amount of gas in bottom hull. Hoses are tight no leaks noted while running at idle or during revving.

Could gas blow by the cratered diaphram seat? or is this issue with the arms not gapped? (looked like about .010" when I installed). Like mentioned ran very well in chop and turns, no miss or stutter. I hope to take out as soon as weather turns and water temp comes up to see if this was a fluke.....

Any ideas. Thanks. Fairway

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**ZMANN** · 04-06-2009, 08:45 PM

I would be getting ebay carbs or some from member crashhard those are bad and yes any bad seating surface can be an issue

**ZMANN** · 04-06-2009, 08:48 PM

also you need to check pop off properly and the arm adjust is in the online manuals but neither of those will put fuel in your hull

**OsideBill** · 04-07-2009, 01:33 AM

Originally posted by Fairway

98 GP1200W. I run on lake but the ski was from coast and salt water took its toal. Serious corrosion in carbs (see pic). Soaked them for 2 weeks. Seized screws through out. Impact Driver, stripped heads, busted bolts, finally got dis-assembled. Seating grooves for diaphrams highly corroded.

Anyway, cleaned best effort installed kits. Did not adjust arms as did not know gap setting and installed as received in kit. Also diaphram seating groove on one carb was cratered badly.

Started right up adjusted idle and took her out. Ran smooth and strong (92Kmh). Ran on lake for about 20 minutes (still cold here). Back to the ramp then to the house. Notice heavy raw gas smell and noted small amount of gas in bottom hull. Hoses are tight no leaks noted while running at idle or during revving.

Could gas blow by the cratered diaphram seat? YES try wire brushing all the corrosion off, then sealing with silicone grease around the o-ring part of the diaphram or is this issue with the arms not gapped? unless it is a sidedraft an improperly adjusted arm can cause fuel to leak into the manifold and cause it to load up at idle a side draft will leak into the hull. (looked like about .010" when I installed). Like mentioned ran very well in chop and turns, no miss or stutter. I hope to take out as soon as weather turns and water temp comes up to see if this was a fluke.....

Any ideas. Thanks. Fairway

Answers in red above. Like Zmann said might have to look for a cleaner set.

**Fairway** · 06-01-2009, 08:49 PM

I found the leak to be the diaphragm O ring groove so corroded it could not seal. I bought some gas resistant sealer and sacrificed it into place. Hull is dry.

The ski runs strong at half throttle and up to top speed (98Kmh) but runs a bit rough from idle up to that power band region.

New question: How do I adjust these carbs?

Thanks. Fairway

**OsideBill** · 06-01-2009, 09:41 PM

The two adjuster screws on each carb will change your fuel mixture. The lowes one is low and upper one is high. you would adjust the low one idle up and upper for 1/2 throttle up. there is a nice right up in the how to section. http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=65275 it has lots of useful tips on tuning carbs.

**ride'er hard** · 09-08-2009, 02:02 AM

I found it very difficult to reinstall the rubber grommets with check valves on my sbn 44... any advice would be much appreciated

I have had to order 2 more due to the rubber tearing... after seeing some of the previous pics posted my check valves weren't anywhere near as bad... should've left them alone i guess

thanks

**OsideBill** · 09-08-2009, 04:36 PM

Originally posted by ride'er hard

I found it very difficult to reinstall the rubber grommets with check valves on my sbn 44... any advice would be much appreciated

I have had to order 2 more due to the rubber tearing... after seeing some of the previous pics posted my check valves weren't anywhere near as bad... should've left them alone i guess

thanks

Use a 2mm ball allen wrench to push them in, give them a spray of windex to ease in the assembly.

**Adam E.** · 04-11-2010, 10:13 PM

Bill,

Gave my GP 44SBN Carb's a "Bill's Best" cleanup. I removed the choke plates, installed primer fittings, polished the brass/aluminum parts, and rebuilt them. After going through this process I have a few questions:

1. Mikuni's manual is pretty confusing for the 44 carb. Which parts am I supposed to use for my rebuild? How do you know if you have the 'late' style carb? Can you point out which ones are needed.

2. What are the tell tale signs for a new needle/seat. How do they go bad and how do you identify if they are bad? What is the function of a needle and seat?

3. Pulse lines. I have been told that standard fuel line is O.K. for this. In your years of carb building has fuel line held up for carbs?

4. What is the advantage to adjustable linkage? How do you position the throttle discs so that they have full ROM? With the current linkage the #2 carb is slightly open.

Attached are pictures of my rebuilt carbs.

Thanks,

Adam

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