Common Carb Issues

[OsideBill]

As always thanks for the help Bill.

Adam

Good thing I take lots of pictures

[OsideBill]

You guys are forgetting the biggest carb issue of them all!!!!! The builder...

Guys who think they know how to work on carbs and don't have a clue!!!
I love seeing carbs for sale with "fresh rebuild" and then people receive delivery of them and you take them apart and they are junk!!!!! Or people who THINK they know how to set their skis up and then one run later we see pics of detonated cylinders on the forum wondering why did this happen?

I leave it to the pros because their are just some things I know I just cant do and want it done right!

There is a lot to be said about who you send stuff to. I just got a set of carbs from a customer who had them rebuilt by another person. He had less then 3 hours use on them and lost #2 cylinder in his ski. Lets see if you all can tell me why. remember these were recently rebuilt.I can assure you the rust was there before otherwise the screws would have been rusted. I have to asssume the check valve in the valve body assembly never got changed. and the other little thing to note was the high speed jet in #2 was 12.5 points smaller then #1 & #3 and 7.5 smaller then original. How do you like the professional repair on #2? nice how I can shine my light from underneath, this carb is trashed.

[Chris03HD]

Whats with the big oversize screw holding the n/s down?

Looks like the screw holding the arm needed a little clearance eh?

[OsideBill]

the guy obviously did not own a tap so he drilled the hole and forced the screw in trying to make it self tapping. the N&S hole is the best one he drilled it clear through the body.

[CDW78]

Is there anything thats safe to run in premixed fuel to clean carbs ?
or is ( even between rebuilds ) taking them apart and cleaning the best option?

Also meant to ask -
On the 97 I picked up recently, after cutting it off for a little while ( 5-15 mins ) it will hesitate to take the gas, it will bog down and sometimes die if I try to give it a lot.
This happens 2 outta 3 times, I'd say after being off for a bit.
After the initial start up and giving it a little for the first min, its fine....

[OsideBill]

You can use stabil they have a version for watercraft. pre-mix keeps them nicer then straight fuel. otherwise there is no magic cleaner for these.

[CDW78]

Thanks Bill,
After posting I had read some more up on the pour in cleaner and some had used Sea Foam. What's your thoughts on this stuff ?

Also,
I was looking at the oil at the Walsmart the other night and seen the Stabil you're referring to, I didn't read up on it, because I thought it was for storing for the winter only..... is it good to use this on a reg. basis to help keep clean since, as you say, there's really no cleaner to run through 'em?

THANKS!

[OsideBill]

Never used sea foam, the sta-bil blue is for watercraft and can be used regularly in every tank as well as for storage. Premix is also a good deterrent to some of these issues.

[jimsmachines]

OSIDEBILL: Thanks for that picture, I'm new to the PWC world. And your post caught my attention. From what I can figure out by your post. Is you have removed the entire carburetor assembly and then dissembled the carburetor. To then remove the fuel screens from each carb. If thats correct that means I need to construct a dolly to remove one ski from my dual trailer to get the machine into the shop and then remove the exhaust to access the carbs. then remove them for service. Am I one the right track here?

Any response would be helpful and thanks for your time.

Regards Jim

[OsideBill]

Yes you are on the right track, follow this link there is tons of tips and pics on how to remove the pipe and carbs. Cajundude did this years ago and it has helped many http://www.cajundude.com/techpagehome.htm

[tom21]

Bill great write up! I am surprised nobody caught the second pic in post 59?? I am sure you were just illustrating but I catch that on a lot of so called "rebuilt" carbs. glad I re-re-read this thread I had forgotten where I saw that chem dip. thanks!

[OsideBill]

Yeah it was illustration with what I had laying around

[dws1227]

great tips

thanks

[gpr12002002]

I helping my son out for the replacement of his carbs on a gpr1200 -2002. Some of the adjustment screws got frozen and a repairer found that they were unserviceable. We bought a set of modfied cards that the repairer wont fit as its not his firms policy to "mix and match". We are in Australia and the ski is in Brisbane. Any expert mechanics in carbs interested in fitting and tuning them -at a cost of course? The new carbs have a pump missing (for a reason) and will need a diaphram replaced (aged) They were origionally for a 2002 GP1200r from a person in Virginia. He had retired them from his race ski which he ran in the IJSBA National tour. So any advice, helpers or contract mechanics around Brisbane that can help?

[jpm2280]

What's the difference between a mikuni BN44 and BN44I?

Hi, I have a 2001 GP1200R with about 80hrs on it that needs a set of carbs due to severe corrossion.. Can anyone tell me exactly what the difference is between the BN44 and the BNI series of carbs? Is it jetting? needle/seat? throttle shafts and linkages?. I know the p/v motor in my ski calls for the "I" series, but I cannot see a physical difference from a standard "Super BN". Is the SBN adaptable to my 1200 p/v motor? My ski has the D plate installed, oil inj. eliminated, Riva intake grate and ride plate. Once I get new carbs I will get rid the choke and accell pump and install a primer. I'm a Yamaha certified outboard tech, so I have no problem swapping parts from my old carbs or modifying settings. The BNI carbs are $500 each even at my dealer cost, when I can get SBN's for $150 each... If anyone could give me some definitive answers I would greatly appreciate it. Thank You.