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I have three Xll/XLt carb sets to rebuild in my family, and in deciding whether to add primers to the hard starting ones, have a question: Does the ultra high pop-off setting of the stock carbs(70 psi) have anything to do with the hard starting of some units(hard after 3-4 days of sitting)? Mine hold tank pressure, chokes go all the way closed, the accell pumps work, and I cannot figure why they are hard to start when the GPR has always started right up. They have been that way since new. -
Guys,
I am working on a second ski that damaged a cylinder while running hard on reserve. Both times the cylinder leaned out due to not enough fuel supply, the reserve was restricted in the tank by the reserve pickup tube "growing" in length and sealing itself off against the bottom plate of the fuel pickup assembly. See pictures.Leave a comment:
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Paul welcome to the forum, you will find lots of knowledgable people here.Leave a comment:
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By the way... It was a pleasure talking with you. Thanks for the knowledge, and not shipping those carbs w/o confirming.Leave a comment:
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There is no jetting solution I know of for that scenario. as for the broken nipples I pull them out of old broken units when I need them.Leave a comment:
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Do you know where to get those check valve nipples that go on the accelerator pumps? I have about 3 that the nipples have broken off from the base. I know everyone says to remove them but the people i rebuild carbs for (mostly friends without a lot of money )want to keep everything stock (IE: the airbox / FA's ) except for a D-plate. I have every jet known to man for these carbs so its not even a issue of rejetting . The main problem is I cant seem to find a solid answer of what jets to put in after removing the accelerator pump and installing a D-plate without installing aftermarket F/A's.Leave a comment:
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as many as I have seen lately like this I say ethanol, not that many people would use diesel additiveLeave a comment:
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I have seen this before that is from Diesel fuel additive we have seen before in 2 stroke marine engines guys have brought them my buddy and showed him the bottle and said they used this additive to remove water ,when he open them up thats what they looked like.Some people try so hard to due the right thing that they dont even read the bottle of what they are buying
Just figured i would share this info,i am laughing because i will remember tt day foreverLeave a comment:
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Sounds more like you have an air leak to me. the best jetting for stock ski with stock air box is what is in it now. Springs were gold then Mikuni changed the color to PlatinumLeave a comment:
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Hello All,
I have an 03 XLT 1200. It is currently popping/ backfiring thru the exhaust. The only modification to this ski is a dplate installed 30 hrs ago. Currently 60 hrs on ski. Carburetors have been taken apart and I installed all new parts from rebuild kit including a different color spring supplied in kit. When i slightly pull the choke at low speed this tends to remove some of the popping. I obviously have to remove the carbs again, can someone give me the best possible low / high speed jet sizes, spring color and adjustable setting s under tamper proof caps. The popping is at low to mid speed and very little up top. Any suggestions on where to buy reliable parts.Leave a comment:
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Yeah, got that much!
Guess I'm hoping that it will be as easy as removing the pump body and finding the diaphram a little dirty and not fully sealing. Just kind of assuming it won't be that easy. Is there anything I should be looking for when doing this? Could this also be causing my issue with not getting full throttle response?
Thanks again!Leave a comment:
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I would definitely look into the fuel leak, if it is leaking when you shut it down, it will certainly be leaking when running. This is somrthing you do not want to mess around with, stop the leak before you ride it anymore.Leave a comment:
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