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  • How to fix stuck throttle shaft

    the sticky throttle shafts are technically non-servicable. According to Yamaha, you fix this problem by replacing the carbs. Honestly, i'm surprised there hasn't been a recall on this, since they had a recall on the throttle cable thing.

    Take out the carbs. Take off the linkage on the bottom of the carbs, remove the springs and arms on the bottom of the throttle shaft. Take a heat gun to the top and bottom of the throttle butterfly where the shaft goes through the carb body. Do not use a torch for this. I don't want anybody blowing their face off. There is gas in those things, a heat gun is dangerous enough. Heat up the carbs one at a time with the heat gun and manipulate the throttles individually to see which one(s) is / are binding. This will allow you to identify which ones need fixing and which ones don't.

    On the carb(s) that need fixing: Grind the threaded end off the screws on the throttle butterfly, remove the screws, and carefully remove the throttle blade, noting the correct orientation. Once this has been removed the shaft should pull right out. If you don't grind off the end of the screws, you will break screws and you will have to drill them out, which means you will probably damage the throttle shaft. Don't do this. Remember, non-serviceable part. F it up, you have to buy a new carb (which is officially the only way to fix it anyway).

    Take the screws to the local "good" hardware store / bolt supply store. Around here it's suburban bolt and supply. Aco, Ace, Tru Value probably won't have these. They are metric and they are tiny (3mm x 0.5mm pitch x 7mm Long Flat head) . Pick up a bunch of new ones. Twice as many as you need, in case you lose a couple or strip a couple. Make sure the new ones are as long as the old ones were before you started grinding on them.

    Before reassembling the carbs, take some sandpaper and sand the throttle shafts lightly in the area where they were binding. You will be able to see marks on the throttle shaft in the correct area. Also sand the carb body where the throttle shaft runs through. Sand it down a little, sand it some more with a real fine grit so that it's not a rough surface, and test fit it. Hit it with a heat gun again and see if it still binds. If so, sand more. If not, you're ready to reassemble. Eventually, you'll be able to get it good and hot with no binding. That's when it's fixed. Don't take too much off though, you don't want any play in this area, only enough clearance for the bushing to expand with heat, without binding.

    Put a good coating of grease on the throttle shaft in the areas where it goes through the carb body. Maybe put some grease in the holes in the carb body too. Put the throttle shaft back in. Make sure you don't have grease on the holes where the throttle blade screws on. Reinsert the throttle blade, making sure the holes are lined up properly and the blade is oriented correctly. Make sure the throttle operates smoothly. Install new screws, using loctite 271, the high strength red stuff. Or the permatex equivalent, permatex 27100. Make sure you have plenty on the threads, but not so much on there as to interfere with the operation of the throttle. Once the screws are in and tight, booger up the threads that are protruding through the other side. Use a screwdriver or pair of pliers to deform the threads so the screw can't back out. Be very careful not to bend the throttle blade in the process.

    That's it. Now just reassemble and reinstall and you should be good to go. If you sanded enough off the throttle shaft and out of the hole in the carb body, your sticky throttle will be fixed.

    No need for a machine shop, no need for any new yamaha parts. Yamaha doesn't exactly support this repair, and like I said, that throttle butterfly is not a serviceable part.

    Be aware that if those screws come loose, they go in your engine. Which is why you want to loctite them and booger the threads.
    Last edited by OsideBill; 01-11-2009, 09:17 PM.
    - Dave

  • #2
    Dave the last post is spot on perfect. only thing I would do different is I use small vise grips to bung up the thread. This post deserves a sticky all on it's own.
    "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again, and expecting different results"

    http://www.pwc-performance.com/
    Support The Forum and Save 10% off on RIVA and R&D products, coupon code is greenhulk

    Porting by Lowell Horning "2-Stroke Porting.com" http://www.2-stroke-porting.com/

    http://www.hydrotoys.com/gpr/tuners/osidebil/

    01 SUV-1.8L SHO Conversion (Alex's Ski) Build has begun http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=172812
    01 GPR 1300 Ported BB (77.1 @7100) (Sold Cuda67)
    02 GPR 1440 Stroked and Ported by 2-Stroke-Porting.com, Factory Triple Pipe project (Under Construction)
    99 GP1200 Ported by West Coast Porting, Bored 1mm over, Secret Mods Motor Broke in, tuning in process. This thing pulls hard with a 14/20 J prop.

    Comment


    • #3
      I have noticed that all the talk on this sticky throttle problem has been when your ski heats up and it begins to stick. Mine is sticking while the engine is completely cold. Do you think it is the same problem? I haven't tried running the motor for a while and seeing what happens as the engine gets warm.

      I think at some point the exhaust above the carby's has let some salt water down onto the carbies so maybe I have a rusting issue some where. ??? I have the pipes off and can see a few of the bolts around the carby are a bit rusty.

      Any suggestions.
      thanks

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by rodcassie View Post
        I have noticed that all the talk on this sticky throttle problem has been when your ski heats up and it begins to stick. Mine is sticking while the engine is completely cold. Do you think it is the same problem? I haven't tried running the motor for a while and seeing what happens as the engine gets warm.

        I think at some point the exhaust above the carby's has let some salt water down onto the carbies so maybe I have a rusting issue some where. ??? I have the pipes off and can see a few of the bolts around the carby are a bit rusty.

        Any suggestions.
        thanks
        Disconnect the throttle and oil injection cable and see how it moves then, may be just a cable problem. if not then I would say you have an issue.
        "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again, and expecting different results"

        http://www.pwc-performance.com/
        Support The Forum and Save 10% off on RIVA and R&D products, coupon code is greenhulk

        Porting by Lowell Horning "2-Stroke Porting.com" http://www.2-stroke-porting.com/

        http://www.hydrotoys.com/gpr/tuners/osidebil/

        01 SUV-1.8L SHO Conversion (Alex's Ski) Build has begun http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=172812
        01 GPR 1300 Ported BB (77.1 @7100) (Sold Cuda67)
        02 GPR 1440 Stroked and Ported by 2-Stroke-Porting.com, Factory Triple Pipe project (Under Construction)
        99 GP1200 Ported by West Coast Porting, Bored 1mm over, Secret Mods Motor Broke in, tuning in process. This thing pulls hard with a 14/20 J prop.

        Comment


        • #5
          +1

          Just did that to my 1200r worked perfect...Great sticky..
          Current: 2015 SeaDoo Spark 900 HO
          R&D intake w/pump seal/R&D High flow exhaust w/
          RIVA Rear Exhaust/Solas Prop re-pitch to 12/14
          SS RIVA Wear Ring/Trixx Steering setup
          Handle Bar EXT's w/ ODI grips
          Deck hardware upgraded
          V-Tech Tune, Switched to 8900 102 Tune!!!

          2001 GP1200R, Tricked out!!!!

          Comment


          • #6
            sticky throttle fixed???

            Not a throttle problem. Pulled it all apart as per the instructions above. The middle shaft was very tight, the other two were fine. Did a bit of sanding and the shaft was freed up. Put it all back together. Got the ski running but holy crap its revving at about 7200 rpm when it should be idling???? mmm what have I done. Fiddled with the adjustment screw (big black screw) but it seems to make no difference. Don't tell me I have to pull the carbies off again???

            Any suggestions?
            Thanks for all the help so far...

            Comment


            • #7
              i first ran across this problem in 01
              yamaha told me its from fuel varnish and to replace the carbs
              i have had some luck putting yamahas ring free in the system if its not to bad
              as well as doing the above mod
              mostly i have found that the shafts were binding up with the shaft seals
              so clean those while apart
              jason
              i like icecream

              Comment


              • #8
                great help.. i will trying this before summer come's
                2000 GP1200R
                First Mods
                D-Plate & Chip
                Oil blocked off
                sigpic

                Comment


                • #9
                  Its gotta be the rubber washers!!!

                  I've been messing with the carbs all day!

                  I have done what the thread stated to do and it has helped alot but I swear its the o'ring type washers at the ends of the shaft that are the problem.... this is on the #2 carb of our 99'xlt. (depicted as part #9 on the carb OEM parts list) {at least I HOPE it is!!!}

                  I've tried different greases, sprays etc.... everything in the garage that's supposed to lube the space shuttle parts even... I think they are just too old and hardend to do the job they once did...

                  Can anyone confirm this for me? Is there another o-ring I can procure locally for this thing?

                  Thanks fellow tinkerers...
                  Ray

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It is more of a seal if I remember right, are you positive the shaft is not bent.
                    "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again, and expecting different results"

                    http://www.pwc-performance.com/
                    Support The Forum and Save 10% off on RIVA and R&D products, coupon code is greenhulk

                    Porting by Lowell Horning "2-Stroke Porting.com" http://www.2-stroke-porting.com/

                    http://www.hydrotoys.com/gpr/tuners/osidebil/

                    01 SUV-1.8L SHO Conversion (Alex's Ski) Build has begun http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=172812
                    01 GPR 1300 Ported BB (77.1 @7100) (Sold Cuda67)
                    02 GPR 1440 Stroked and Ported by 2-Stroke-Porting.com, Factory Triple Pipe project (Under Construction)
                    99 GP1200 Ported by West Coast Porting, Bored 1mm over, Secret Mods Motor Broke in, tuning in process. This thing pulls hard with a 14/20 J prop.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hey fellow tinkerers!

                      I'm hesitant to say it is bent Bill, #2 & #3 turns w/no resistance w/out the seals, then gets harder after 1st seal on top is inserted into place, then with the 2nd seal it just feels too sticky...I feel like #3 got worse after I removed and worked on it.... I'm sure #2 is better than it was but now I want to replace the seals & see if theres a change.... I just orderd em, I'll keep u posted... I'll also try swapping the shafts as well with the #1 carb.... Its not sticking at all, I hate to mess with it if its working, but now I gotta satisfy my curiosity.....

                      Wish me luck!
                      Ray

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        is it the rubber shaft seals?... NOPE!

                        Hey fellas;

                        Its not the rubber seals! I just confirmed it... Had to ream out the carbs with a make shift tool... sandpaper wrapped around long 3/16" drill bit.... and used drill on it. Sanding the shaft didn't seem to be getting anywhere. Working good now!

                        Just thought I'd let yall know...LOL
                        Ray

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks for the update!
                          2000 Sea Ray 380 Sundancer
                          1996 Rinker 192 Captiva-sold
                          1999 Yamaha XL 1200 LTD : 165.1 hours and 70.3 mph GPS... Commercial Tiny Tach, Riva Pro-Series Sponsons, Waveeater clips and PV couplings, Hydroturf, Jim's Plate with billet inserts, R&D intake grate, Pump plug kit, I.R. Hole shot kit ,HO Pump with 14/20 dynafly, Advent, VF3's, Rejetted Carbs, Pro-tec FA's, Milled oem head, 5 degree GPR nozzle, D-plate & chip, rule auto bilge-sold

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I want to see if you all think that this is my problem, since what am reading resembles it. Ok so I have a 2000 Gp1200R and after it gets warm the throttle sticks after its warms up and I shut the ski off. When I go to re-start the throttle is still stuck (if its still warm) and if I pull on the throttle it will start at a higher RPM (where ever the throttle might be stuck at) with some choke assistance but after it takes off at a high speed it will un stick and work properly again, until I shut it off again. So is my problem whats stated above? and if so then am looking at the same fix? Any help greatly appreciated.
                            Thanks
                            Dre
                            98 XL 760
                            00 SJ
                            94 WB1
                            94 WB1
                            93 WB1
                            91 650SX/701
                            sigpic

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Can I please get some feedback on this! I did exactly as the thread says to do, but like Mrtinker I cleaned out the shaft and bushings. With the seals in and I re-heat with heat gun its still sticking, but with the seals out and re-heat no problem at all. Shaft is not bent, I've checked and rechecked. Also would it be ok to leave seals out or not a good idea? Any other suggestions greatly appreciated
                              98 XL 760
                              00 SJ
                              94 WB1
                              94 WB1
                              93 WB1
                              91 650SX/701
                              sigpic

                              Comment

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