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How to do a Compression Test

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  • How to do a Compression Test

    When testing compression : Cold engine: Be sure your battery is good and fully charged to max befor testing, Remove all 3 plug wires and store them safely away from the engine area and be sure there is no gas or fumes in hull, remove only on sprakplug at a time ( leave the other two in when testing ) Un plug electrical power valve servo motor, be sure power valves are closed, hold throttle full open when testing, record gauge reading, repete test again on same cyl. just to get a good reading, then do the same on the other two cyls. If you battery seams to slow down during testing re charge battery between each cyl. test , This is the only way to do a good compression test IMO, Tommy Jordan
    The Fountain Boys "Never ride faster than your angel can fly" The R&D never stops! " A friend will get you out of jail, A GOOD friend will be sitting in jail with you saying " boy that was fun"

  • #2
    Originally posted by 2fast4u View Post
    Un plug electrical power valve servo motor, be sure power valves are closed
    Question, what difference would this make in the final comp if one did not do this? I am assuming it would bring it up a bit?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by canadaxp View Post
      Question, what difference would this make in the final comp if one did not do this? I am assuming it would bring it up a bit?
      ON my 2000 gpr when you are doing a compression test the power valves will cycle open then close. I un hook the servo to be sure I get a constant reading and record this info and save it for future information so I can check my motor to see if It it still good to go or that the compression has started to go away for some reason, I usualy see 3 -6 psi higher with the power valve servo un hooked and valves down. Keeping a good data log of information on your motor when its fresh ( In good working order) helps you later when you supect something might be going wrong with your motor, Tommy Jordan
      The Fountain Boys "Never ride faster than your angel can fly" The R&D never stops! " A friend will get you out of jail, A GOOD friend will be sitting in jail with you saying " boy that was fun"

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      • #4
        Great post Tommy, I copied it and made it a "how to"

        this test applies to all 2 stroke skis, if you do not have power valves ignore that portion.
        "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again, and expecting different results"

        http://www.pwc-performance.com/
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        01 SUV-1.8L SHO Conversion (Alex's Ski) Build has begun http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=172812
        01 GPR 1300 Ported BB (77.1 @7100) (Sold Cuda67)
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        99 GP1200 Ported by West Coast Porting, Bored 1mm over, Secret Mods Motor Broke in, tuning in process. This thing pulls hard with a 14/20 J prop.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by OsideBill View Post
          Great post Tommy, I copied it and made it a "how to"

          this test applies to all 2 stroke skis, if you do not have power valves ignore that portion.
          When i read this last night, i thought it should be "stuck"
          thanks
          2000 Sea Ray 380 Sundancer
          1996 Rinker 192 Captiva-sold
          1999 Yamaha XL 1200 LTD : 165.1 hours and 70.3 mph GPS... Commercial Tiny Tach, Riva Pro-Series Sponsons, Waveeater clips and PV couplings, Hydroturf, Jim's Plate with billet inserts, R&D intake grate, Pump plug kit, I.R. Hole shot kit ,HO Pump with 14/20 dynafly, Advent, VF3's, Rejetted Carbs, Pro-tec FA's, Milled oem head, 5 degree GPR nozzle, D-plate & chip, rule auto bilge-sold

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          • #6
            I'm getting ready to go look over a GP1300R this upcoming Wednesday and I was just reading over the manual and seeing what I could find online about things to look for and I cam across a conflict between here and there.

            In the manual it says to remove all of the spark plugs instead of just one at a time. What is the reasoning as to why you recommend to leave one out at a time?

            Also, why do you recommend disconnecting the PV servo?

            Lastly, what is the benefit to doing a cold reading vs. warmed up (118* F) as the manual says?

            I'm not questioning your method, just trying to make sure I do it properly and get accurate readings the right way. Thanks.
            2000 Yamaha GP1200R
            1999 Kawasaki Ultra 150

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Hybrid AWD View Post
              Also, why do you recommend disconnecting the PV servo?
              This ensures that they all stay closed while turning the starter (consistancy).

              What year 1300R? The 2005+ dont have power valves.
              Follow the directions above. The key is having a FULLY charged battery.
              '13 RXT
              '06 GPR
              '00/'08 YamaDoo 1500X
              Handlebar Inserts http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=233636

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by steach View Post
                This ensures that they all stay closed while turning the starter (consistancy).

                What year 1300R? The 2005+ dont have power valves.
                Follow the directions above. The key is having a FULLY charged battery.
                It's a 2003 GP1300R. I'm gonna send the guy an email asking him to make sure the battery is fully charged.
                2000 Yamaha GP1200R
                1999 Kawasaki Ultra 150

                Comment


                • #9
                  Why in the yamaha manual does it say the compression on a 2001 xlt 1200
                  is 500 kpa on a tester that equals around 72 psi and my cylinders are around 110 psi which i think is kinda low ANY HELP

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by sandman7793 View Post
                    Why in the yamaha manual does it say the compression on a 2001 xlt 1200
                    is 500 kpa on a tester that equals around 72 psi and my cylinders are around 110 psi which i think is kinda low ANY HELP
                    The spec in the manual is for a minimum compression. 110 is a tick low but if its consistant you should be alright
                    '13 RXT
                    '06 GPR
                    '00/'08 YamaDoo 1500X
                    Handlebar Inserts http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=233636

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      comp

                      lol 110 is a tick low my 01 1200r is running about 96 in cylinder#2 115 in cylinders #1-3 my plan is to run it till it goes out the its time for shortblock exchange

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                      • #12
                        you can buy a compression kit at sears there only 60 bucks. then insert it into the spark plug hole and crank the motor

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                        • #13
                          110 isn't to bad i know the 1300r has 120-125 lbs in each cylinder. 96 is a little low though

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                          • #14
                            I have a question about the Yamaha XL 1200. Does this model have a power valve? Why do I need to hold the throttle wide open? Do the remaining spark plugs need to be tighten down or can they be loose fitting? I ran a compression test and the readings are extremley low but the ski runs great. Only has 58 hours on it.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 2fast4u View Post
                              When testing compression : Cold engine: Be sure your battery is good and fully charged to max befor testing, Remove all 3 plug wires and store them safely away from the engine area and be sure there is no gas or fumes in hull, remove only on sprakplug at a time ( leave the other two in when testing ) Un plug electrical power valve servo motor, be sure power valves are closed, hold throttle full open when testing, record gauge reading, repete test again on same cyl. just to get a good reading, then do the same on the other two cyls. If you battery seams to slow down during testing re charge battery between each cyl. test , This is the only way to do a good compression test IMO, Tommy Jordan
                              Is that the elec connection just below the steering column inside the hull? The one near the two cables?

                              What difference does it make to have 2 of 3 plugs installed? The reason I ask is say..your compression is 100-100-150.
                              If you check #1 it will be turning against 250
                              If you check #2 it will be turning against 250
                              If you check #3 it will only be against 200.....

                              Bill

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