AFTERMARKET HANDLEBAR WITH STOCK TRIM ASMBLY (PART 2-DETAIL)

[KirkF350]

Thank you for the good detailed post you started John. It probably saved us an hour or so in head scratching. I just could not see cutting down the grip and loosing a fingers worth of bar while riding. That got me to thinking and I told Barry that I wanted to come up with something a little different. We both put our skis up. Three hous later and 30 minutes in the hardware store, BAMB. I have ready thought about an upgrade. I had already made an extra bar insert for the wife's ski, but I am going to have my machinist @ work use it as a templete and make one out of some aluminum bar stock. Hers will be bullet proof. I will get some extras made and get a drawing done incase anyone on the forum wants one.
Thanks Nater for the plate. Barry mentioned that Billy had seen one. $40 and change would be much better than reinventing the wheel. One thing though, on their page, they have it rivoted down. I think this will have to be screwed down. What about two thin curved plates, with backing nuts mounted to them, glued to the underside of the plastic? You could align it on top, mark and drill your holes, glue your plate on the underside, then you could just screw the plate down. This would make for easy removal for any future work or additions. ???

[ABBOTT]

very cool, thanks a bunch for the info!!

[N8R]

I took and and cut off the side plates that you attach the stock steering cover

[N8R]

aaaaaaa more

[ABBOTT]

that looks really good. awsome!

[N8R]

that looks really good. awsome!

thanks working on cover plate for the black hole(2 piece billet) able to unscrew for access. if it works i'll send you a couple. by the way i went off your post to do this mod once again thanks for the help saved a ton of time

[ABBOTT]

no problem, that is what the forum is all about!

[RX951]

Azonic CR- Low Bend 1-1/8" fat bars

I used Moose brand clamps. I also grinded off the "hump" on the bottom of the clamp so the clamps will fit flat on the steering stem, that way you don't have to use the factory clamps under it.

If you go with standard 7/8" bars, then the OEM clamps will do fine.

I used OURY grips because of how soft they are.
They are also MX grips because one grip is slightly larger in ID than the other side.
This is to accomodate the larger ID of the trim assembly as motorcycles have a larger ID on the throttle side.

http://www.hydrotoys.com/gpr/tuners/rx951/azonic%20bars/

OEM clmaps with paint buffed off.

[NateGP1300R]

ODI

i noticed u said rubber grips not ODI -- is there something wrong with the ODI? just wondering because someone recommended them to me.

[XL1200Ltd-Keith]

grips

Grips are a personal preference, as are the bends of the bars. The ATV and MTB grips come with both grips the same size. Renthal has different hardness compounds, and even offer combinations of hardness in the same grip.

Don't forget to glue the grips on! 3M Weatherstripping Adhesive works great.

Moose makes some aluminum stops for the bar ends.

[ABBOTT]

Daaaaaaaaaaaammmnnnn Billy!!! Looks Great Man!!

[NateGP1300R]

drill bit

Hey ABBOTT what size drill bit did you use for the hole in the handlebars that is for the bolt that passes through?

[ABBOTT]

It's going to be a 3/16"

Post pics when your done - i'd like to see it!

[NateGP1300R]

handlebars

well i worked on the trim piece with the drill bit and ground it down but the grip (ODI) wouldn't slide over it. it was way too tight. i took the plastic trim down to paper thin levels then decided it just wasn't going to work. aside from going to a lever setup or auto drop nozzle what options do i have here? get a different set of grips? with a larger ID? i don't think the odi grips have a different ID for the trim side.

[GPRPITMAN]

nater I used the odi grips when you use the grip for the trim side you need to take out the plastic insert in the odi grip then use silicone on the grip to stick real good mine are fine. And once you take out the plastic insert it will stretch plenty wide enough