How I remove tamper evident caps on GPR carbs

[tmg97gp]

"Quote" When drilling and tapping the tamper plugs, I tapped them to the same size as the screws that held the acc pump in place, then I screwed them in and when they made contact with the adjustment screw, I kept tightening it and simply used it like a gear puller. once the threads of the screw bottomed out, I just grabbed it with my fingers, plug attached and done. No prying or pulling needed.
(I do believe that this is were your problem originated. Not a good idea to put that much pressure on the High speed screws, especially in the way you were describing.)

[66V]

Rebuild Kit, 44mm, I-Body Carb, Mikuni

$49.95


E-Z Tune Carb Screw Set, YAM 1200 Powervalve (66V)

$79.95



Do these sound right do i need to buy any thing eles i already have a primer kit.

[upgraded]

I supposed this could have happend, however, there was not that much pressure on the adjuster at least not enough in my opinion to make a brass needle open an aluminum hole. also, in order for this to happen, it would have had to basically strip the threads seeing as the stock adjusters were not bottomed out at the time of removal. The thandles turn smoothly so I am guessing they threads and seats are fine.

Bill, could you measure the width of the dowel pin in your adjusters to see if maybe mine are just a little long? Thanks.

I checked the part number from your package BIll with the ones from my kit. I'm thinking maybe I recieved the wrong parts? Yours are from jetworks, mine are from riva but I'm wondering if the part numbers should be the same? My high speeds are marked SA-100 while yours are marked SA-300. I need to leave for work so I don't have enough time to check, but if someone gets bored and can find the individual part numbers for the high and low speed adjusters from Riva, that would great. They send them out as a "kit" so they are marked on thier site and invoice as such so no individual part numbers. Please let me know if anyone can confirm the part numbers for me, thanks.

[OsideBill]

I will measure after work tonight, Jetworks makes them all it is just different labeling.

I do believe now that it was pointed out again, that your method of removal has caused this issue. Do the ink check I posted on this one, as well as one that seats correctly and post the results.

[OsideBill]

Rebuild Kit, 44mm, I-Body Carb, Mikuni

$49.95


E-Z Tune Carb Screw Set, YAM 1200 Powervalve (66V)

$79.95



Do these sound right do i need to buy any thing eles i already have a primer kit.

Yes those are correct, remember you will need 3 of the rebuild kits.

Now as far what else you need depends on what mods, are you running F/A's? D-plate?

[upgraded]

Okay, I did Bills sharpie test and all is good. I've posted only one pic of the oem adjusters but I tested them all, all 6 oem and t-handles, and had the same results. They are seating in the same areas in Bill photos. Again, There was not enough pressure to move the adjuster and even if that was the case, the threads would have pulled out before the tips were even seated seeing has the oem adjusters were not sitting bottomed out. All of the threads are in perfect condition and there are no marks what so ever on the oem or Thandle needles.

I am still wondering what the differences between the SA-100 highspeed and SA-300 Highspeed adjusters are.

Called Jetworks and the adjusters for the XLT should be SA-200 and SA-300, I was told that the SA-100 is for Sea-doo. I recieved SA-100 Hoghspeed adjusters. I do not know what the low speed adjusters were I only kept the one bag to put my OEM adjuster back in and my invoice only shows them as a kit number. I guess I'll call Riva and see what I can find out.

[OsideBill]

At least you know what the issue is now.

[upgraded]

At least you know what the issue is now.

I hope so, I have Riva checking into now and was told they should know something tomorrow. I'll let you know.

[66V]

Yes those are correct, remember you will need 3 of the rebuild kits.

Now as far what else you need depends on what mods, are you running F/A's? D-plate?

D plate yes but no f/a maybe I should put them on do they make a gain for power if so what are the best ones to use?

[OsideBill]

D plate yes but no f/a maybe I should put them on do they make a gain for power if so what are the best ones to use?

Yes they do and I prefer Prok F/A's

I suggest you do a little reading there are quite a few threads detailing mods for the carbed skis, as well as some very detailed build threads in the project section. Get an idea what mods you would really like to do then make a decision on what to add and what order to do it.

[upgraded]

Okay, Bubba @ Riva is sending me a new set of High speed adjusters. Great guy, handled everything very fast and smoothly. It seems I was sent the wrong part. I didn't find out where the mistake tool place, but I figured I would post some info just so anyone else getting these as a "kit" would have some reference for part numbers. Keep in mind, I am only passing on information from the Jetworks site to let people know that part numbers they should be looking for in thier Riva T-handle adjuster kits.

If you ordered Rivas EZ tune kit #RY1220, then you shoud recieve the following:
Three Each SA-200 Low speed adjusters
Three Each SA-300 High speed adjusters

If you recieve part number SA-100, these are, from what I was told by Jetworks, high speed adjuster for Sea-Doos.

Just thought I would pass on what I learned so if anyone else has the same problem, they have and idea of what to check first.

[orthotist]

Check spring inside

the spring inside could be broke, take out the Low speed screw and check spring inside!

Yup doubel checked everything. Like I said, there was never any question about them being in the right spot, but the high adjusters handle hits the runner before the adjuster gets completely snug. I can hear and feel the spring start to tension up but the adjuster definatly has another maybe 1/4 turn or less before it's bottomed out and snug. Mind you, I am not "tightening" these but turning them gently untill they stop. theres is little force behind this action. any other thoughts? Just makes me nervous about having an acuratestarting point.

[vxooxv]

In case it isn't clear - when you drill you will "pop" through the plug. I was worried the plug was butted against the screw because in the first drilling pic it appears there was no hole or gap between them. You do need to be careful but you WILL drill through the end of plug where the bit will give way to the free space (minimal) between the plug and screw. This makes it easier to tap a screw OR simply put a self tap into the hole you drilled.