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primer kit install...right and wrong way!

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  • #16
    Originally posted by macGruber
    This instruction should be included as mandatory in SBTs crappy primer plunger instructions. Thanks for posting this last year LT.

    I used this post yesterday to add the old oil pump check valve (from one of the blown motor skis I bought this year) to my new primer. Here is a video of the install:


    The ski is the Yamaha SUV which has the front and rear seat sections. The rear seat section is very quick and easy to remove so I chose to use this location to install the new primer plunger. It puts it in a very easy to install area, out of sight, will allow me to later remove the previously installed primer plunger and strap a set of carbs that have the choke plates back on.

    IMO (and I'm sure it is smattered all over this site) a much better configuration for those who are going to pre-mix AND want a primer plunger is the following (and thanks to Boudin for the idea on leaving choke plates on).

    1. Buy ONLY a primer plunger if you buy one from SBT or Ebay and get the rest from Autozone or wherever...don't waste your money on an entire kit. The parts from SBT in the kit suck! You will also need to purchase the fuel line adapter "T" that will plug into the primer line and the larger fuel line, some legit fuel line for the primer (the clear plastic junk that SBT sends dries up so quickly and so hard that it is difficult to work with if you have to mess with it later and I question if it ends up leaking air after drying out) and 2 other smaller "T's" to feed the primer fuel into the flame arrester nipples.

    2. DON'T remove the choke plates! They are a pain in the rear to remove and I cannot figure out why I would want to remove the ability to choke my cold blooded 65U in the first place.

    3. Since switching to pre-mix leaves 3 perfectly vacant nipples on the bottom outside edge of the flame arrestor, simply connect the primer lines to those nipples. They sit right there above the carb anyway.

    4. For the SUV, I think a good spot for install is either right between the seat hold-downs for the rear seat (since it is so easy to remove) or it could probably easily be configured to sit where the fresh water rinse hose is located if you want to just lay that hose down in your hull to the left of the motor...if you fear drilling a hole in your ski

    5. Check the oil check valve that you choose to use from your old oil pump for flow by blowing through it to make sure it is not clogged (one of mine were completely plugged up...and probably why that motor blew in the first place). Install it 10" or so below the angled nipple on the primer with the embossed black arrow pointing toward the primer for flow direction.

    Running the primer lines into the flame arrestor nipples also keeps the primer lines away from the hot motor which is just a bonus IMO.

    Anyway...here is a quick youtube vid I did of my install. Sorry it is so rudimentary but I don't want to take time to edit it right now.
    MacGruber... that is an AWESOME idea, like Tech Section Sticky Post material.

    Too bad I just ordered my $27.95 kit, the plunger is like 17 and I have the metal T from another kit when I combined skis. Dam, oh well that rocks and I will be doing this now.
    My GP760 starts the second I hit the button, but is sluggish after a week of sitting. I want primer, but I also want my choke and now I don't have to pull the carbs.
    '93 SquareNose SuperJet build in progress...


    • #17
      can someone post a new link to the video in this post....seems to be an old URL?


      • #18
        Does anyone have pictures of the routing of their return lines with the tee? I thought I had my Tee low enough to pick up fuel but I was wrong. I am going to drop the return line almost straight down from the carbs, silicone the Tee to the bottom to the hull and then come straight up with the return line so it doesn't happen again.