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Small winter change. Testing a Turbo smart dual stage manual boost controller. Vs the grimmspeed manual controller
grimspeed is a ball & Spring style not a bleed. So fastest spooling but also prone to boost spikes & single level.
turbosmart dual stage is a bleed type (both low & high) with a 12v silanoid to switch between the two. It does have a ball spring gate that's light weight to assist on fast spooling, can be removed if you see a spike.
water proof handle bar switch so can switch on the fly from low to high boost settings.
Thought process is to have it set in low/ 17 lbs for most riding. Still run 90mph. 9000 rpm's & then if & when testing/ racing can hit button for 20lbs/ 9300 rpm's. Hopefully less boost spikes as grimmspeed I do see 21-22psi for split second before it does the bouncing 19.8-20.0 on a pull. The bleed type should be stable on a pull too (we will see). & for normal jet ski playing, riding, dough nuts, & stuff less rpm, less boost loads stress in motor. Still 90mph & rips but 3 or so less lbs more safty margin.
it's wired into a SEA connector right now (plugs into battery tender hard wired to battery) so I can test & see if I like it. If I do, will wire it into ACC power. If not will remove & go back with grimmspeed.
new oil & plugs ready after test ride, so will be clean & ready for season.
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Originally posted by hotbutta View PostTease. Show us the vid.
But fat rider, home built, rec ski on pump gas in Alabama heat with beer and tools Mide 90s goal was met.
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I priced it multiple ways. OEM Short block, bare block & nice rods & pistons, ect... it was about 2k more to build the block vs a buying a OEM short block. I had to buy a bare block, & then buy the rotating assemble... then I also could not get the rotating assembly
balanced anywhere I normally would use for 3-4 month waiting list. So between not riding the rest of the season. & 2k more ontop of a very pricy rebuild. Used a OEM short block.
Also it seemed to be the general consensus, if I was not going to run better fuel then 93 pump, & 20lbs of boost there was not really a need for the better rods & pistons. Still would rather have them don't get me wrong but. I am not trying to make the ski a race ski. Pump gas is still key to me.
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why not build that ski with CP/Carillo Rods and Pistons with ARP Bolts, Riva Head Gasket etc ? I understand you bought an new yami short block which is complete. did u calculate to buy just the cases and install the new Engine Parts ?
Sounds Great by the way
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Originally posted by mittens View PostTook it out to run the rest of the gas out, temps are dropping here.
74 out, hit 93 & 94 again with the R&D grate, 20lbs set up. 9250 & a best of 9360 rpm's. Both rear & front cooler with beer, & tools & jump pack in bow. Finally had a buddy next to me at ramp & got a better video of pool sounds as normally loading alone.
I plan to change from the grimmspeed manual boost controller, to a turbo smart dual stage controller over winter, with a billet handle bar switch. Low boost on like 17 ish lbs for normal riding playing & less stress worry. With a button push back to 20lbs if & when I need/want it at full pump gas tilt. Should still be 90mph ski on low boost but that last 3 lbs is a lot less stress & worry for normal playing around.
https://youtu.be/XOjJOWn8n24
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Took it out to run the rest of the gas out, temps are dropping here.
74 out, hit 93 & 94 again with the R&D grate, 20lbs set up. 9250 & a best of 9360 rpm's. Both rear & front cooler with beer, & tools & jump pack in bow. Finally had a buddy next to me at ramp & got a better video of pool sounds as normally loading alone.
I plan to change from the grimmspeed manual boost controller, to a turbo smart dual stage controller over winter, with a billet handle bar switch. Low boost on like 17 ish lbs for normal riding playing & less stress worry. With a button push back to 20lbs if & when I need/want it at full pump gas tilt. Should still be 90mph ski on low boost but that last 3 lbs is a lot less stress & worry for normal playing around.
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Good luck! It tried to keep the info for others it was not just wrote down for others when I started so kept track & pics. I am a details person anyway so good to have & look back on.
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Appreciate all the documentation and discussion here, I figured out a lot from this post on what i need to do to turbo my FZR. I hope to do fab during off season, id at least like to get pipe work done up at a minimum and collect parts. Must get the desire to finish off sons Volkswagen first to make room for the ski in my garage first though!
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Little update.
installed R&D grate. First day with it I did notice it handled rolling waves better. So hook up in chop was better then stock cut grate. Speeds seemed close maybe 0.5-1mph faster.. hard to tell small changes on different days.
second day out I swapped back to 85mm nozzle as temps where in 70s not 85-90.
9240 rpm's, 94mph, right at 20 lbs of boost 19.7-20.0 at WOT.
was a little cooler and & I had fastened it up to 11.4-11.5 AFR just shot at the fuel to get safer with temp change 53psi vs 51 from week before. I think the 87mm nozzle works good in the heat 85-95 degrees & in then cooler days swapping back to the 85mm bring rpm's back to make up for the gain. 93 in heat 94 in 72 degree weather.
maybe some tweaking AFR, & holding it longer with less shit in ski (beer, fuel, tools) get 95? Who knows. Happy it's back together. Probably only have 1-2 more rides this season. Debating a dual stage boost controller over winter so I have a 17-18 setting for most the time & then a 20psi on a switch just when needed. Maybe keep it safer for 99% of the messing around.
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Originally posted by hotbutta View PostBad gas would have shown damage on the other pistons. This is the result of too much heat for too little piston to wall clearance that Yamaha puts in to pass emissions. I wish Mittens would have honed out the new block. With the right numbers, 6 miles is not abuse. Mark Hahn knows what I mean.
With his current tune, stock internals/clearances, 20# of boost, and "fresh" 93, he's at the limit.
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Bad gas would have shown damage on the other pistons. This is the result of too much heat for too little piston to wall clearance that Yamaha puts in to pass emissions. I wish Mittens would have honed out the new block. With the right numbers, 6 miles is not abuse. Mark Hahn knows what I mean.
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