FZR-R3 Turbo build

[R3_killa]

Good to know. Have a few things to put into place first. But deff a goal. Can you guys run the rear seat with no issues? And anyway to have a quieter exhaust? I Always see the exhaust coming right out the back and it's loud.

Yes, can run the rear seat with no issues. Removing the rear seat just help to get rid of excessive heat from the turbo. Having a turbo with water cooled housing helps with that.

In regards to the exhaust sound:- I'm sure there are ways to muffle the sound but would you really want to? [emoji57] You can route to factory exit or Riva rear exit.

[mittens]

Good to know. Have a few things to put into place first. But deff a goal. Can you guys run the rear seat with no issues? And anyway to have a quieter exhaust? I Always see the exhaust coming right out the back and it’s loud.

I run both seats 100% of the time with my rear storage / cooler still in place as well. My turbine is jacketed as well. Hottest I have gotten the housing is 136 degrees...

R3_killa always hating on a 2 foot section of pipe.... that's nothing for a car.. ski spools instantly. This pipe is also key. It allows the kit to truly BOLT ON. There is no fab work, no moving the electronics, no anything. Install a fizzle, remove your stinger, bolt turbo pipes on & run water lines. I know anything can be made better. But have yet to see someone else that does not require cuttting, moving electronics, loosing rear storage ect....

shit bolts on & you loose no function... if someone would have made that I would have bought it.... I think that's what will allow the average ski owner that's done with clutches to buy one and install one. If it truly bolts on. & they don't have to cut there shit up, relocating things, worry about heat, & seats or storage.

[R3_killa]

I run both seats 100% of the time with my rear storage / cooler still in place as well. My turbine is jacketed as well. Hottest I have gotten the housing is 136 degrees...

R3_killa always hating on a 2 foot section of pipe.... that's nothing for a car.. ski spools instantly. This pipe is also key. It allows the kit to truly BOLT ON. There is no fab work, no moving the electronics, no anything. Install a fizzle, remove your stinger, bolt turbo pipes on & run water lines. I know anything can be made better. But have yet to see someone else that does not require cuttting, moving electronics, loosing rear storage ect....

shit bolts on & you loose no function... if someone would have made that I would have bought it.... I think that's what will allow the average ski owner that's done with clutches to buy one and install one. If it truly bolts on. & they don't have to cut there shit up, relocating things, worry about heat, & seats or storage.

Will never hate buddy - we're just in different worlds when it comes to preference [emoji482]

But keeping everything in its place is a big plus and hats off to you for achieving that!

[K7fxho]

That’s what I’d like. No modification to anything inside the hull just remove supercharger. Put the plate and bolt on the turbo kit. Retain RiDE and all that.

[mittens]

That’s what I’d like. No modification to anything inside the hull just remove supercharger. Put the plate and bolt on the turbo kit. Retain RiDE and all that.

that's what most want but no one makes it. Everything is custom, or big changes or race style short J pipe that cuts all the mid wall up.

pretty sure my pipes will fit a FX too. Plan to install on a buddy's 2020 FX this winter to check clearance.

[1tommygunner1927]

I run both seats 100% of the time with my rear storage / cooler still in place as well. My turbine is jacketed as well. Hottest I have gotten the housing is 136 degrees...

R3_killa always hating on a 2 foot section of pipe.... that's nothing for a car.. ski spools instantly. This pipe is also key. It allows the kit to truly BOLT ON. There is no fab work, no moving the electronics, no anything. Install a fizzle, remove your stinger, bolt turbo pipes on & run water lines. I know anything can be made better. But have yet to see someone else that does not require cuttting, moving electronics, loosing rear storage ect....

shit bolts on & you loose no function... if someone would have made that I would have bought it.... I think that's what will allow the average ski owner that's done with clutches to buy one and install one. If it truly bolts on. & they don't have to cut there shit up, relocating things, worry about heat, & seats or storage.

^^^^^^
This is also truth on the SeaDoo side. Its the difference between a rec ski and more on the race side.

[R3_killa]

^^^^^^
This is also truth on the SeaDoo side. Its the difference between a rec ski and more on the race side.

Exactly! Mine is more in the race side than recreational. I'm looking for efficiency as well as decent numbers. I'm sure I will encounter areas that will need more attention than others but that's what racing or building a race ski is about - trial and error. [emoji1362]

This isn't my first rodeo and have built RX7's, GTR's and STi's (my own). I know heat & plumbing matters and play a big roll in making power efficiently. I'm taking my time with my build I know I'll be happy with the layout and performance at the end [emoji41][emoji482]

[hotbutta]

Tyson, give us something.

[R3_killa]

Tyson, give us something.

I've been playing around with my conversion ski but managed to do the charge pipe over for a cleaner look:



I'll start doing the down-pipe in the next week or so and plan to have the kit finished before Xmas. After that, I'll just be waiting on the motor to be completed and shipped.