I'll start doing the down-pipe in the next week or so and plan to have the kit finished before Xmas. After that, I'll just be waiting on the motor to be completed and shipped.
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FZR-R3 Turbo build
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This isn't my first rodeo and have built RX7's, GTR's and STi's (my own). I know heat & plumbing matters and play a big roll in making power efficiently. I'm taking my time with my build I know I'll be happy with the layout and performance at the end [emoji41][emoji482]Leave a comment:
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I run both seats 100% of the time with my rear storage / cooler still in place as well. My turbine is jacketed as well. Hottest I have gotten the housing is 136 degrees...
R3_killa always hating on a 2 foot section of pipe.... that's nothing for a car.. ski spools instantly. This pipe is also key. It allows the kit to truly BOLT ON. There is no fab work, no moving the electronics, no anything. Install a fizzle, remove your stinger, bolt turbo pipes on & run water lines. I know anything can be made better. But have yet to see someone else that does not require cuttting, moving electronics, loosing rear storage ect....
shit bolts on & you loose no function... if someone would have made that I would have bought it.... I think that's what will allow the average ski owner that's done with clutches to buy one and install one. If it truly bolts on. & they don't have to cut there shit up, relocating things, worry about heat, & seats or storage.
This is also truth on the SeaDoo side. Its the difference between a rec ski and more on the race side.👍 1Leave a comment:
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pretty sure my pipes will fit a FX too. Plan to install on a buddy's 2020 FX this winter to check clearance.Leave a comment:
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That’s what I’d like. No modification to anything inside the hull just remove supercharger. Put the plate and bolt on the turbo kit. Retain RiDE and all that.Leave a comment:
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I run both seats 100% of the time with my rear storage / cooler still in place as well. My turbine is jacketed as well. Hottest I have gotten the housing is 136 degrees...
R3_killa always hating on a 2 foot section of pipe.... that's nothing for a car.. ski spools instantly. This pipe is also key. It allows the kit to truly BOLT ON. There is no fab work, no moving the electronics, no anything. Install a fizzle, remove your stinger, bolt turbo pipes on & run water lines. I know anything can be made better. But have yet to see someone else that does not require cuttting, moving electronics, loosing rear storage ect....
shit bolts on & you loose no function... if someone would have made that I would have bought it.... I think that's what will allow the average ski owner that's done with clutches to buy one and install one. If it truly bolts on. & they don't have to cut there shit up, relocating things, worry about heat, & seats or storage.
But keeping everything in its place is a big plus and hats off to you for achieving that!Leave a comment:
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R3_killa always hating on a 2 foot section of pipe.... that's nothing for a car.. ski spools instantly. This pipe is also key. It allows the kit to truly BOLT ON. There is no fab work, no moving the electronics, no anything. Install a fizzle, remove your stinger, bolt turbo pipes on & run water lines. I know anything can be made better. But have yet to see someone else that does not require cuttting, moving electronics, loosing rear storage ect....
shit bolts on & you loose no function... if someone would have made that I would have bought it.... I think that's what will allow the average ski owner that's done with clutches to buy one and install one. If it truly bolts on. & they don't have to cut there shit up, relocating things, worry about heat, & seats or storage.Leave a comment:
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Yes, can run the rear seat with no issues. Removing the rear seat just help to get rid of excessive heat from the turbo. Having a turbo with water cooled housing helps with that.
In regards to the exhaust sound:- I'm sure there are ways to muffle the sound but would you really want to? [emoji57] You can route to factory exit or Riva rear exit.Leave a comment:
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Good to know. Have a few things to put into place first. But deff a goal. Can you guys run the rear seat with no issues? And anyway to have a quieter exhaust? I Always see the exhaust coming right out the back and it’s loud.Leave a comment:
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You can reverse your I/C setup by turning the U pipe from cooler to manifold to the rear and mount the I/C in that direction to eliminate the long piping and keep it on the cool side. Should spoil the turbo a couple RPM's faster by doing that [emoji1362]
My Kit design isn't for the faint of heart and building with a vision I've had on the table for some time now. The goal with my kit is to eliminate any reason for lag and weight as much as possible by fabricating shorter piping and by using a different exhaust manifold.
My concerns with lag will only be turbine housing and throttle body - the 2.0L strike and higher compression, ported/polished head, oversized exhaust valves and race cams should assist in a quicker spool along with the shorter piping. Max boost goal will be 25psi and will be running 109oct.
To save some additional weight, I'll be doing a full titanium down-pipe since that will use more material than the other areas that has piping. It should/will give a different note at higher RPM's as well [emoji41]Leave a comment:
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I have a used turbo kit minus the I/C and some miscellaneous items. It will bolt directly to the oem manifold and retain the mid-wall. The turbo will also need to be rebuilt/serviced. PM if you're interested.Leave a comment:
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BUild coming along very nicely. Once someone makes a bolt on turbo kit. I’ll go turbo on my 2016 svho.👍 1Leave a comment:
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