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FZR-R3 Turbo build

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  • R3_killa
    replied
    Originally posted by hotbutta View Post
    Tyson, give us something.
    I've been playing around with my conversion ski but managed to do the charge pipe over for a cleaner look:

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    I'll start doing the down-pipe in the next week or so and plan to have the kit finished before Xmas. After that, I'll just be waiting on the motor to be completed and shipped.

    Leave a comment:


  • hotbutta
    replied
    Tyson, give us something.

    Leave a comment:


  • R3_killa
    replied
    Originally posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    ^^^^^^
    This is also truth on the SeaDoo side. Its the difference between a rec ski and more on the race side.
    Exactly! Mine is more in the race side than recreational. I'm looking for efficiency as well as decent numbers. I'm sure I will encounter areas that will need more attention than others but that's what racing or building a race ski is about - trial and error. [emoji1362]

    This isn't my first rodeo and have built RX7's, GTR's and STi's (my own). I know heat & plumbing matters and play a big roll in making power efficiently. I'm taking my time with my build I know I'll be happy with the layout and performance at the end [emoji41][emoji482]

    Leave a comment:


  • 1tommygunner1927
    replied
    Originally posted by mittens View Post
    I run both seats 100% of the time with my rear storage / cooler still in place as well. My turbine is jacketed as well. Hottest I have gotten the housing is 136 degrees...

    R3_killa always hating on a 2 foot section of pipe.... that's nothing for a car.. ski spools instantly. This pipe is also key. It allows the kit to truly BOLT ON. There is no fab work, no moving the electronics, no anything. Install a fizzle, remove your stinger, bolt turbo pipes on & run water lines. I know anything can be made better. But have yet to see someone else that does not require cuttting, moving electronics, loosing rear storage ect....

    shit bolts on & you loose no function... if someone would have made that I would have bought it.... I think that's what will allow the average ski owner that's done with clutches to buy one and install one. If it truly bolts on. & they don't have to cut there shit up, relocating things, worry about heat, & seats or storage.
    ^^^^^^
    This is also truth on the SeaDoo side. Its the difference between a rec ski and more on the race side.

    Leave a comment:


  • mittens
    replied
    Originally posted by K7fxho View Post
    That’s what I’d like. No modification to anything inside the hull just remove supercharger. Put the plate and bolt on the turbo kit. Retain RiDE and all that.
    that's what most want but no one makes it. Everything is custom, or big changes or race style short J pipe that cuts all the mid wall up.

    pretty sure my pipes will fit a FX too. Plan to install on a buddy's 2020 FX this winter to check clearance.

    Leave a comment:


  • K7fxho
    replied
    That’s what I’d like. No modification to anything inside the hull just remove supercharger. Put the plate and bolt on the turbo kit. Retain RiDE and all that.

    Leave a comment:


  • R3_killa
    replied
    Originally posted by mittens View Post
    I run both seats 100% of the time with my rear storage / cooler still in place as well. My turbine is jacketed as well. Hottest I have gotten the housing is 136 degrees...

    R3_killa always hating on a 2 foot section of pipe.... that's nothing for a car.. ski spools instantly. This pipe is also key. It allows the kit to truly BOLT ON. There is no fab work, no moving the electronics, no anything. Install a fizzle, remove your stinger, bolt turbo pipes on & run water lines. I know anything can be made better. But have yet to see someone else that does not require cuttting, moving electronics, loosing rear storage ect....

    shit bolts on & you loose no function... if someone would have made that I would have bought it.... I think that's what will allow the average ski owner that's done with clutches to buy one and install one. If it truly bolts on. & they don't have to cut there shit up, relocating things, worry about heat, & seats or storage.
    Will never hate buddy - we're just in different worlds when it comes to preference [emoji482]

    But keeping everything in its place is a big plus and hats off to you for achieving that!

    Leave a comment:


  • mittens
    replied
    Originally posted by K7fxho View Post
    Good to know. Have a few things to put into place first. But deff a goal. Can you guys run the rear seat with no issues? And anyway to have a quieter exhaust? I Always see the exhaust coming right out the back and it’s loud.
    I run both seats 100% of the time with my rear storage / cooler still in place as well. My turbine is jacketed as well. Hottest I have gotten the housing is 136 degrees...

    R3_killa always hating on a 2 foot section of pipe.... that's nothing for a car.. ski spools instantly. This pipe is also key. It allows the kit to truly BOLT ON. There is no fab work, no moving the electronics, no anything. Install a fizzle, remove your stinger, bolt turbo pipes on & run water lines. I know anything can be made better. But have yet to see someone else that does not require cuttting, moving electronics, loosing rear storage ect....

    shit bolts on & you loose no function... if someone would have made that I would have bought it.... I think that's what will allow the average ski owner that's done with clutches to buy one and install one. If it truly bolts on. & they don't have to cut there shit up, relocating things, worry about heat, & seats or storage.

    Leave a comment:


  • R3_killa
    replied
    Originally posted by K7fxho View Post
    Good to know. Have a few things to put into place first. But deff a goal. Can you guys run the rear seat with no issues? And anyway to have a quieter exhaust? I Always see the exhaust coming right out the back and it's loud.

    Yes, can run the rear seat with no issues. Removing the rear seat just help to get rid of excessive heat from the turbo. Having a turbo with water cooled housing helps with that.

    In regards to the exhaust sound:- I'm sure there are ways to muffle the sound but would you really want to? [emoji57] You can route to factory exit or Riva rear exit.

    Leave a comment:


  • K7fxho
    replied
    Good to know. Have a few things to put into place first. But deff a goal. Can you guys run the rear seat with no issues? And anyway to have a quieter exhaust? I Always see the exhaust coming right out the back and it’s loud.

    Leave a comment:


  • R3_killa
    replied
    Originally posted by K7fxho View Post
    BUild coming along very nicely. Once someone makes a bolt on turbo kit. I'll go turbo on my 2016 svho.
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    This is the kit I have sitting around. Will come with wastegate, turbocharger (rebuild/service needed), 2 manual boost controllers, oil return, up-pipe and down-pipe.

    Leave a comment:


  • R3_killa
    replied
    Originally posted by mittens View Post
    My kit is bolt on. No trimming of mid wall, uses a fizzle. Just only have one. Need to get it on a jig & make some copies ha
    Yes, your kit looks very well placed. Only con that I would review with your kit is the I/C piping which for turbocharged is too much plumbing and goes over the exhaust/hot side of the motor.

    You can reverse your I/C setup by turning the U pipe from cooler to manifold to the rear and mount the I/C in that direction to eliminate the long piping and keep it on the cool side. Should spoil the turbo a couple RPM's faster by doing that [emoji1362]

    My Kit design isn't for the faint of heart and building with a vision I've had on the table for some time now. The goal with my kit is to eliminate any reason for lag and weight as much as possible by fabricating shorter piping and by using a different exhaust manifold.

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    My concerns with lag will only be turbine housing and throttle body - the 2.0L strike and higher compression, ported/polished head, oversized exhaust valves and race cams should assist in a quicker spool along with the shorter piping. Max boost goal will be 25psi and will be running 109oct.

    To save some additional weight, I'll be doing a full titanium down-pipe since that will use more material than the other areas that has piping. It should/will give a different note at higher RPM's as well [emoji41]

    Leave a comment:


  • mittens
    replied
    Originally posted by K7fxho View Post
    BUild coming along very nicely. Once someone makes a bolt on turbo kit. I'll go turbo on my 2016 svho.
    My kit is bolt on. No trimming of mid wall, uses a fizzle. Just only have one. Need to get it on a jig & make some copies ha

    Leave a comment:


  • R3_killa
    replied
    Originally posted by K7fxho View Post
    BUild coming along very nicely. Once someone makes a bolt on turbo kit. I'll go turbo on my 2016 svho.
    I have a used turbo kit minus the I/C and some miscellaneous items. It will bolt directly to the oem manifold and retain the mid-wall. The turbo will also need to be rebuilt/serviced. PM if you're interested.

    Leave a comment:


  • K7fxho
    replied
    BUild coming along very nicely. Once someone makes a bolt on turbo kit. I’ll go turbo on my 2016 svho.

    Leave a comment:

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