Tweet
SUV1200 - thanks for also chiming-in on my questions. I may have mentioned this already ... but I'm to not planning on the 2" spacer at the IB way, which means my 2012 VXR donor drive-line & pump should mount-up as-is (keeping the 2" pump housing). Therefore, cable lengths are going to be "in play" for me ... so I did not know about the cable extensions cheaply available online. {thumbs-up }
For OTS, what you mention is indeed "plan A". So when I'm not actively working this project, I'm thinking on it, and part of that thinking is using a 2005 FXHO steering column, because it has an OTS switch mounted on the column, thus "adds" this safety feature to my SUV.
As for the exhaust manifold - I still need to source a welder (that's better than I). I might try to buy an extra manifold of ebay ... and send that off to someone so I'm not disabling my donor ski just yet.
General thread update:
While I'm posting, might as well drop a quick project update here...
So bottom hull painting = done. Lately I've been lightly sanding and repairing small scuffs and chips to the upper hull. There are also small gel-coat spider cracks near misc holes, etc... that are easily "filled-in" with a custom epoxy recipe.
(above pic) I just cut the "hump" 1" shorter (aka the one near the steering that provided mounting points to the old 2-stroke choke & cut-off valve). Besides not needing those anymore, I plan to mount a small switch control panel to the upper cowling, therefore an extra air-gap under the cowling will be needed for the switch body's and wiring to clear.
I also cut the aft opening (aft seat position hull access) slightly larger, as I will not be keeping the SUV's battery box (battery will be mounted elsewhere). Now I'm contemplating my "ability" to glass-up & create a custom-fit drop-bucket that slides into that space (like the old FX HO have).
Re-enforced hatch hinges: I deliberately laid-up additional fiberglass on the back-side (inside) of the saddle hatches, bow hatch, aft toe-cleat. Actually, it's 2 layers of carbon fiber cloth. Works very well - nice and solid, without adding too much thickness.
Basically, taking it slow on the upper body-work and planning ahead of painting.
Next phase:
As for painting ... I'm not sure how I'm going to be able to paint the entire hull, at once, without the paint flashing before I get all the way around. I have the slowest hardener, yet it's hot down here already! So I'm thinking of doing one-half at a time (port & stbd) This WILL indeed leave a tape-line down the aft boarding platform and a small section mid-bow. "Rolling" the tape-line will help somewhat, but it will need to buff'ed-out later. Therefore, the mindset would be to add a few extra coats of single-stage in those areas. Under seat and cowlings - the paint-line won't bother me.
For OTS, what you mention is indeed "plan A". So when I'm not actively working this project, I'm thinking on it, and part of that thinking is using a 2005 FXHO steering column, because it has an OTS switch mounted on the column, thus "adds" this safety feature to my SUV.
As for the exhaust manifold - I still need to source a welder (that's better than I). I might try to buy an extra manifold of ebay ... and send that off to someone so I'm not disabling my donor ski just yet.
General thread update:
While I'm posting, might as well drop a quick project update here...
So bottom hull painting = done. Lately I've been lightly sanding and repairing small scuffs and chips to the upper hull. There are also small gel-coat spider cracks near misc holes, etc... that are easily "filled-in" with a custom epoxy recipe.
(above pic) I just cut the "hump" 1" shorter (aka the one near the steering that provided mounting points to the old 2-stroke choke & cut-off valve). Besides not needing those anymore, I plan to mount a small switch control panel to the upper cowling, therefore an extra air-gap under the cowling will be needed for the switch body's and wiring to clear.
I also cut the aft opening (aft seat position hull access) slightly larger, as I will not be keeping the SUV's battery box (battery will be mounted elsewhere). Now I'm contemplating my "ability" to glass-up & create a custom-fit drop-bucket that slides into that space (like the old FX HO have).
Re-enforced hatch hinges: I deliberately laid-up additional fiberglass on the back-side (inside) of the saddle hatches, bow hatch, aft toe-cleat. Actually, it's 2 layers of carbon fiber cloth. Works very well - nice and solid, without adding too much thickness.
Basically, taking it slow on the upper body-work and planning ahead of painting.
Next phase:
As for painting ... I'm not sure how I'm going to be able to paint the entire hull, at once, without the paint flashing before I get all the way around. I have the slowest hardener, yet it's hot down here already! So I'm thinking of doing one-half at a time (port & stbd) This WILL indeed leave a tape-line down the aft boarding platform and a small section mid-bow. "Rolling" the tape-line will help somewhat, but it will need to buff'ed-out later. Therefore, the mindset would be to add a few extra coats of single-stage in those areas. Under seat and cowlings - the paint-line won't bother me.
Comment