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GP1200R vs SUV 1200.

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  • #16
    buy the gpr are just buy a ski boat suvs are gas hogs

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    • #17
      If you want a boat buy a boat, if you want a fast ski get the jet ski!

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      • #18
        GP1200R vs SUV 1200.

        We have a 1200XLT and and GPR. I'll take the GPR all day long. Handles so much better. It's hard to describe, but the GPR just does what I want with no effort. I can cut hard in the GPR, when I try the same thing in the XLT it almost tosses me off.
        2000 GP1200R
        Jetworks, D-Plate, Cat Delete Chip, Pre-Mix, 13/19 Solas, PPK, Wave Eaters, FA's
        63.9 MPH

        2004 1200XLT
        D-Plate, Cat Delete Chip, Pre-Mix, Wave Eaters

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        • #19
          Originally posted by thatdude596
          If you want a boat buy a boat, if you want a fast ski get the jet ski!
          I have a boat.
          I also have an 05 gp800r and I like it very much. But I was thinking suv because it can sit more then 2.

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          • #20
            this is the 2 stroke performance . suv is not gpr is for sure

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            • #21
              So what did you decide to buy? I'm sure the SUV is gone by now if it was priced right and in good shape. This post is growing some moss but in case anyone else is looking for the same comparison I'll chime in on the SUV.

              If you are looking to fish off your ski I would go with the SUV all day long. 50 to 52 out of the box on flat water is not hard to get if it is working as designed. WOT you can expect 3 to 3.5 mpg. If you are doing slow trolling, you can expect 2.5mpg due to the big pig pushing so much water around.

              The trailer issue is a real one if you decide to get 2 of them but if you decide to get a smaller ski and keep the SUV Bill O has a good remedy for that. The SUV gets set lower on its bunks and the other ski gets set a bit higher to ride over the rub rail on the SUV. The fit looks fine to me. 2 SUVs side by side...well...I'd like to see that but the rig would be a minimum of 10'6 wide by the time it was over. I know I don't want to be rolling down the highway like that ha! Some have custom welded in-line tandem trailers on a single or double axle and a swing-away bow stop.

              The SUV storage is unreal and the 18.5 gallon gas tank helps to go the distance when needed. Lots of customization options for extra fuel since the storage is so significant. If you plan to do your own engine work on your skis the SUV is VERY easy to pull the motor. The engine, carbs and exhaust all come out of the hole in one piece. One very heavy piece. No need to take it apart before you pull it. Just pull the fuel lines, electronics, 4 motor mount bolts a couple zip ties and yank it out.

              As far as re-sale, you will never have a difficult time selling an SUV IMO. They are not that easy to find so as long as you buy it at a reasonable price...you will be able to sell it at a reasonable price. IMO, a running 2004 (last year produced) should sell for $4k to $4500 tops with a galvanized trailer to be considered a good value. An 01' between $3k and $3800 and a 99 $2800 to $3k but that is my opinion. These people asking $5k for a 2000 are out of their mind...but it is supply in demand so to each his own. I just turned down a 2000 model for $2k that needed a bit of body work touch up and some paint on the lower part. Other than that it was a good runner with a painted trailer. That was the best deal I have seen in some time. Some other goofball just bought a 99 at Richie Brother's auction with a frozen motor and bad cables for $3500. Supply and demand + no brains. I watch craigslist all over the nation as well as ebay and they don't come up often. I would argue that if you can pick up a running 2000 or newer for $3k or so that you will be able to re-sell it for the same money after one or two seasons. P.S. My opinion is worth exactly 2 cents so take it or leave it

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              • #22
                How difficult is it to install a new fuel sender in the suv?

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                • #23
                  Redmove the fuel lines from the sending unit, unstrap the tank and the ring clamp from the sending unit neck. Pull the sending unit up a bit and siphon as much of the fuel out as you can. Go through the big cover hole in your hood and you should be able to remove the ring clamp that holds the gas fill tube from the gas tank and disconnect the hose. This will allow you to slide the tank toward the engine a bit. Then....pull up on the sending unit and try to find the most advantageous tank location to allow for pulling out that tall sending unit. I think it will barely make it by working it out up into the void under the gauges. I don't know if there is an easier way but this is how I had to do it. If you have to pull the motor as well, do it after you pull the motor and after the tank is out of the hole.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by gigem
                    Redmove the fuel lines from the sending unit, unstrap the tank and the ring clamp from the sending unit neck. Pull the sending unit up a bit and siphon as much of the fuel out as you can. Go through the big cover hole in your hood and you should be able to remove the ring clamp that holds the gas fill tube from the gas tank and disconnect the hose. This will allow you to slide the tank toward the engine a bit. Then....pull up on the sending unit and try to find the most advantageous tank location to allow for pulling out that tall sending unit. I think it will barely make it by working it out up into the void under the gauges. I don't know if there is an easier way but this is how I had to do it. If you have to pull the motor as well, do it after you pull the motor and after the tank is out of the hole.
                    Thanks. How long of a job is it? Couple of hours or more?

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                    • #25
                      Go SUV and convert it to a 4 Stroke I say!!!! no bias here of course... I know where there's a 99 in LA for $500
                      sigpicGotta luv the big luggin SUV's!

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