XLT 1200 Need Advice, now that engine is out and #3 piston meltdown confirmed

[swift53]

What started out as a potential carb issue, turned out to be slightly more serious, as #3 meltdown is very clear.
The issues:
0. The oil line had detached. I assume from other posts, a common occurrence.
1. Does the crank survive the event, as the rod has changed in color (overheating)?
2. If it does, can the crankcase be cleaned, as debris has inevitably leeched down?
3. How can I read the hours on the engine, once it is out? I forgot to do so before removal....
4. Due to geographical location, it is more expensive to ship anything in and out of El Salvador
5. The # 1 and # 2 cylinders and pistons are OK, the honing is good, no visible damage, but ignore the lifespan of these motors.
6. Do I replace only the # 3 assembly?
7. re-ring the other pistons?
8. There is a lot of calcium deposits in the head as the lake in our lake is of volcanic provenance,
so full of minerals, and flushing would be with the same water. No idea on this issue
9.. What now?

Thank you for your help.
Regards, Alberto

[thatdude596]

Rod color ok
Crank may or may not be fine- tear down is only sure way of knowing or a scope
Check rod play now and any notching
U can only replace the one jug/piston - up to you look at pros n cons

[mudslanger]

Plan on rebuilding or replacing that crank.the amount of heat and discoloration that is on it tells it all. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but if you try using that crank you will just be pulling it back out and spending more money on another rebuild.
if the cylinder is not too bad you can send it to be renicked or find another used one.
Good Luck with the build.

[thatdude596]

My rods are kinda close in color and checked out just fine when inspected by Crankworks

[LT1GMC]

The oil line coming off is not what killed that motor, it ran WAY too lean, either a carb problem or a big air leak like at the crank seal, carb or reed gaskets, or base gasket. The best choice would have been to leak test the motor before pullling it apart, then you would know where the leak was. The one picture of the rod looks pretty black, and if the inside looks discolored, or the pin looks like it was distressed, better rebuild or replace the crank. You will be able to clean everything else real good when you take the cases apart to service the crank and seals.

[swift53]

Thank you all for your opinions. The issue, is the shipping, as very expensive to take components to the USA and back.
My best bet, would be to find a NOS long block and just bring that back to El Salvador.
Anyone have a source?
Here, we have zero facilities here for crank rebuilding, and it would appear that just the components are very expensive.
Anyhow, will remove the crank from the block to investigate further.
Regards, Alberto

[Mighty Mouse]

Considering your limitation of parts and availabilitie of crank rebuild options, I think I would inspect it and give it a good cleaning. Lets look at the pic of the cylinder. 2 strokes are often forgiving. You may be able to give the cylinder a light hone even if Nicasiled. Often it just has a coating of aluminum on the walls. However your piston looks to have large chunk out of it, so you may have worse issues. In your case, the value of the shipping and repairs to the US may exceed the value of the ski. Therefore I think maybe new piston/ring and a light hone or new piston/ring, sleeve the cylinder and bore. If you have no machining options, you may be to go to the states for a used cylinder. Good luck.\


Thats a large chunk out of the piston. Do you have powervalves on that 1200? If so, you may want to check thier condition/opperation.

[jim]

pm sent-- I have lots of other parts too

[swift53]

Considering your limitation of parts and availabilitie of crank rebuild options, I think I would inspect it and give it a good cleaning. Lets look at the pic of the cylinder. 2 strokes are often forgiving. You may be able to give the cylinder a light hone even if Nicasiled. Often it just has a coating of aluminum on the walls. However your piston looks to have large chunk out of it, so you may have worse issues. In your case, the value of the shipping and repairs to the US may exceed the value of the ski. Therefore I think maybe new piston/ring and a light hone or new piston/ring, sleeve the cylinder and bore. If you have no machining options, you may be to go to the states for a used cylinder. Good luck.\


Thats a large chunk out of the piston. Do you have powervalves on that 1200? If so, you may want to check thier condition/opperation.

The part of the piston that is missing, melted off.
The power valves are fine. I thing the blob just went out the pipe?
I read somewhere on this site, that there was a dealer that sold long blocks OEM, Any idea?
Today, we'll take out the crank and see what that looks like and I will post pix.
Thank you.
Regards, Alberto

[mudslanger]

My rods are kinda close in color and checked out just fine when inspected by Crankworks

That kinda close advice is going to cost someone a lot of money. anyone that has experience building these motors knows better. please get a little more knowledge before giving kinda close advice. Jerry

[thatdude596]

My rods are kinda close in color and checked out just fine when inspected by Crankworks

That kinda close advice is going to cost someone a lot of money. anyone that has experience building these motors knows better. please get a little more knowledge before giving kinda close advice. Jerry

can you show us a pic or your crank connecting rods?

[mudslanger]

My rods are kinda close in color and checked out just fine when inspected by Crankworks

That kinda close advice is going to cost someone a lot of money. anyone that has experience building these motors knows better. please get a little more knowledge before giving kinda close advice. Jerry

ok spot on in the second pic. now crankworks, rvr jettech are idiots.....right

I didn't say anything about crankworks. just your advice. don't give it if you don't know what you are talking about. the crank is the heart of the engine and viable damage like that comes from someone who has been there not someone that talks like they have.

[thatdude596]

my rods are the EXACT same color as in second pic, depending on lighting/camera close to the first. CRANK has been checked out by TWO top notch shops. both said ZERO issues. your comment is flawed or CRANKWORKS and RVR JETTECH are wrong/idiots

i have a feeling they BOTH have seen hundreds if not thousands more cranks than you ever have or will

[GoFastGuru]

if you dont know what your talking about.it does not help to post this crank ran with no oil untill it came apart may also have more issues. and never run a sleeved cylinder next to nic cylinder get real guys be a help dont just thow out crap just to be posting .fix it right aer wast all you money know what you have under your cowl

[thatdude596]

if you dont know what your talking about.it does not help to post this crank ran with no oil untill it came apart may also have more issues. and never run a sleeved cylinder next to nic cylinder get real guys be a help dont just thow out crap just to be posting .fix it right aer wast all you money know what you have under your cowl

Another know it all better tear down my motor after your guys diagnosis even though it was in spec