gp1200r stalled will idle but wont go

[showmepro1200]

All the ideas here are great but before you start pulling things apart look in the pump really good for something in the impeller area or even a piece of stick or wood thats
lodged in between the impellor and the wall of the intake. You could just be cavitating.

Neighbor had a problem once. Told him he was cavitating bad and to check it on the lift. He swore he looked in there good - I said let me see. I found a diving fishing plug lodged inbetween two of the vanes of the impeller. Pried it out (literally) and all was good again.

The whining part you described is interesting (and scary) though....

[drooh]

Ok Bad news, took it to the shop. Said the shaft is stripped and will cost about $520 in aftermarket parts and at least $500 labor. Not sure what to do, dang!

I just replaced the motor on this thing a few months back. If I fix this what else can I expect to fail in the future?

[thatdude596]

Ok Bad news, took it to the shop. Said the shaft is stripped and will cost about $520 in aftermarket parts and at least $500 labor. Not sure what to do, dang!

I just replaced the motor on this thing a few months back. If I fix this what else can I expect to fail in the future?

heres what you do pm wfo or water woody and i bet they have a good used one. then follow the steps in the how to section on removing pump and shafts. you can do it yourself

[drooh]

really doubt that I could do it myself without screwing something up, but for the heck of it I looked through the how to's and did a search but could not find anything for removing pump or shaft. Can you post a link to each? Also, what is a decent price for used parts (i believe I need both shafts)

[Almost]

It's really not that hard. I'm 23 and just did it mostly by myself unless I needed and extra set of hands then my dad helped me. Just get a service manual and start reading up on this site. Just look up the Duke method in the how to section for installing pump bearings, they go in like butter. Sliding the motor forward a couple inches sounds hard, but once you got the stinger out your half way there. If you have a garage and a pulley system it's even easier.

Also you're in Texas, plenty of members around you that would be willing to give you a hand I'm sure for some beer.

[drooh]

If I was to attempt to do this myself (or with a friend). About how much time would you say it would take?

[thatdude596]

Depends on your skill level, time management and how corroded parts are. I haven't done it but I'd say no more than a half a day your first time

[Almost]

If you are a fiddle F#%k like me probably a long time. I when I started taking everything apart I wasn't happy with what I saw and wanted everything to look nice when done. I had all my pump parts blasted in a parts cleaner and I primed and painted them. I also spent time sanding my stock ride plate and pump shoe to true it up a little bit. I'm also a couple hours away from my ski so I only get work on it when I make time to go down to my dads, so it is an on going project for me that started late summer when I started pulling things apart. I'm to the point now though that I really only have a few things to order and do and I can start putting everything back together.

Broken or stuck bolts can eat up a lot of your time. So there is no way really to how long it can and will take especially if you want to sand and clean everything up. Skill level and tool availability also plays a big part. If you are not rushing and like turning a wrench or like projects it's worth a try and quite enjoyable.

[mudslanger]

There is always a chance of breaking a bolt. if i am taking a bolt out and it feels like it doesn't want to come out and may break i usually take a hammer and a bar or extension and hit the head of the bolt to free it. first try pulling the pump assembly you will need to remove the ride-plate to get it out just don't pull the transom plate. it is the last plate bolted to the back of the ski that the pump assembly bolts to. then pull the seat and remove the pipe on the right side of the ski. that will give you access to the rear coupler and the motor mount bolts. if you have any trouble just post back it is really not a hard job to do if you take your time and don't run out of patience.

[rich.allen]

i had a similar issue with my 1200 same as you described, except for the low fuel warning. have you had the pump shoe sealed with a seal kit. i put one on mine and 2wks later same problem, didn't use enough 3m 1400 the first time. took it back apart cleaned everything up and did a better job with the 3m 1400 and the next day she took off like a raped ape. good luck

[drooh]

just thought i reply and let yall know im going to attempt doing this myself. however just wondering how this actually happened... what makes the drive shaft strip?

[yamahayz250rider]

Misaligned motor, mid shaft,pump. Who ever did the motor swap didn't align anything.

Best way to have motor outa the ski. Swapping a shaft isn't hard u will need a press. Pull ur prop while ur in there u can change the bearings and seals. If the drive shaft is spun the midshsft is probably toast also

I've got a xlt pump don't know if the shafts are the same if they are il let it go cheap