Water out of reed valve? Help!

[MatthewZ]

1995 WAVEBLASTER-
Folks--craft was submerged partially during hurricane Sandy here in NY. I am slowly taking things apart and repairing.
Question--Carb is removed and while hand turning the drive shaft the pistons move freely but water shot out of the hose nipple on top of the Reed valve box. Is this normal?
Also-can I access/service bendix with motor in craft? Starter spins outside of Blaster but not while installed in blaster--bad /stuck bendix?
Thanks!!!

[dontknowcrap]

The nipple I think you mean gives the pulse to the carbs to pump fuel. There should be nothing in that. If the craft was submerged, you should make sure that no water is in the crankcase as it will rust the insides and ruin the bearings.

The bendix can be accessed by removing the front cover, flywheel and bendix is there. You might have to move the gastank a little to get the flywheel removal tool in there.

Don

[dockwalker]

My opinion.....water inside this long after Sandy, toast... unless you just want to learn how to work on it.Pull the motor and begin disassembly.Post pictures and questions.Lots of help here.

[showmepro1200]

And if you want yet another opinion - stop tearing it down little by little to try to find that magic moment when you reach a pristine state and don't have to go further - Im guessing that doesn't exist. (salt?) water coming out that nipple is proof it needs a total tear down, and it probably isn't going to be pretty.

But as others say, if you are just looking to learn from it, sounds like a good project.

[MatthewZ]

Folks--thanks for the quick replies! So water coming out of reed box tube is not good-ugh. As I investigate further-what is easier to remove and would give me a better idea of whats going on inside?--reed box cover or engine front cover (bendix/flywheel)??? Thanks ---worse case I may part this baby out.

[showmepro1200]

The flywheel area is independent of the crankcase area - I'm betting there's water in both - you need to look in each. But hey all is not lost, you can learn alot from rebuilding and do use this site for help. The Blaster is just that, a blast to ride, unlike no other. And good motor, the 701....

[MatthewZ]

So if i remove reed box cover I will be able to see down plenum to the reeds? Do I have to remove reeds? easy to do?
When I remove front engine cover I have to pull fly wheel to see stator electronics and can remover Bendix gear but still no see if any water got in crankshaft area-correct? How can I get a visual on crankcase without major tear apart? Any way of sticking a syphon into the crankcase to see if any water is in it? Thanks!

[showmepro1200]

Can you throw some pics out here so we can see? Should be able to access reed cage(s) fairly easy

[MatthewZ]

will definately take some pics soon---
Update--took reed box cover off and looked into plenum--found a mix of old gas and oil laying on top of what I assume are the reeds-is this normal? -the reeds move when finger pressure applied.
Took water /air box out--was half full of salt water and some oil-will remove engine front cover this week as time permits.
This is a 1995 single carb Waveblaster---I only have the downloaded manual (thanks to this site) for the dual carb craft and the reed box is totally different.
Does that small tube on reed box cover that provides carb pulse bypass the reed chamber and channel directly into the crankcase to produce this pulse? (reminder--water did come out of that tube when hand turning the engine. Not much but some water did shoot out. Thanks !!!

[showmepro1200]

No, not normal to have water/oil/etc in a pool in the reed cage - maybe just oily residue but no pouring liquid. I would guess youll find a mother load of water when you get down into the crankcase area in the near future.

The small tube provides the pulse from the crankcase, yes. The water won't come back up out the reeds because they are doing their job holding back air (in this case water).

If you took the top of the intake (reed box) off, cant you just pull the reed cage assembly out now? That will probably give you a better view of the crank for sure (plus you can tilt the motor and maybe see liquid pour out). Im looking at a 95 WB diagram now and it seems youre right there.

[MatthewZ]

ill suck the small pool of gas/oil out of the reed plenum and look closer at the reed assemblies. Are you sayng the reeds themselves pull out and are not screwed down inside the plenum? They just pull out? After I do remove reed assembliess I will be able to see inside crankcase and evaluate seal health? Any chance you can send the 95WB diagram you have? [email protected] Thank you

[showmepro1200]

I just put "Yamaha PWC parts" into a search engine and usually I find multiple locations that are selling OEM parts that have diagrams.

For example - (oops didnt let link through - I'll PM it to you)

Also - someone here may be able to send you pdf copy of the shop manual too. Anyone?

Getting the reed cages out will allow you to just do a small visual of the crank area - dont expect to find out much other than (if you tip it) if theres water (and maybe rust) down there.

[MatthewZ]

New pics-water in reed box-help!

Here are some pics. You are correct--lean ski over and more water weeps into reed box. Also--starter bendix gear looks good- moves by hand-gear manually throws out to engage fly wheel--bendix gear also moves so its not frozen--
reminder--starter spins free outside of craft. the starter does not seem to have the torque to wrap gear into flywheel and turn motor. What could cause starter to be "weak"?

[showmepro1200]

Someone else can maybe offer an answer - but are you SURE that top plate/reed valve assembly (pic 1) doesn't come off? Seems you got the bolts out when you took the manifold cap off. Dont force it but see if a thin putty knife or blade will insert in there at the gasket mating point.

[MatthewZ]

Once again you are correct! I removed Reed plate gasket and saw there was a plate that held the entire reed assemblies in place. And yes there is very clean but slightly oily water in crankcase. my intention now is to use a small tube and shop vac to suck all the water out. after its dry and I suck/blow all the moisture out, can I just close it back up or do I need to lubricate in the crank somehow? Any suggestions on why the starter is too "weak" to turn Bendix? Thanks!!!