Stainless Steel Intake Results?

[2fast4u]

Now that over 50 ss grates have been shipped out please post your performance gains/ loss or other findings from switching to the SS grate. Keep in mind that this grate is NOT a exact copy as the alu. 800 grate (its a improved version). You may have to change your prop pitch just a little bit because it flows more water that has less cavation bubbles in it. Also the wing has a slight different edge on the front wing to improve water flow and hook up. The ride plate angle may need to be adjusted a few thousands of a inch up or down for best speed. Also the two center bars are thinner for better hook up on hole shots and give more water to the prop for less cavation on take off. I worked with Jerry along with others to try to get the best grate to you guys. If you have any problems please post them and I will try to help solve them best as I can. If it had not been for Jerry this grate would have never been produced. Thanks Jerry! Tommy Jordan

[izz0]

Now that over 50 ss grates have been shipped out please post your performance gains/ loss or other findings from switching to the SS grate. Keep in mind that this grate is NOT a exact copy as the alu. 800 grate (its a improved version). You may have to change your prop pitch just a little bit because it flows more water that has less cavation bubbles in it. Also the wing has a slight different edge on the front wing to improve water flow and hook up. The ride plate angle may need to be adjusted a few thousands of a inch up or down for best speed. Also the two center bars are thinner for better hook up on hole shots and give more water to the prop for less cavation on take off. I worked with Jerry along with others to try to get the best grate to you guys. If you have any problems please post them and I will try to help solve them best as I can. If it had not been for Jerry this grate would have never been produced. Thanks Jerry! Tommy Jordan

i collected mine the other day but wont have it installed for a week or two. i will post results when i produce some.

[Chrisrokc]

Well the cavitation out of the hole is extreme on my 1390. I have a 14/23 wheel in there right now with a .5 setback turning 7150 rpms at around 2900-3000 feet above sea level. Mph gain I do not know. I swapped the impeller and grate at the same time. I might run my 1200 grate next time out to get an idea.

[OutlawGPR]

Now that over 50 ss grates have been shipped out please post your performance gains/ loss or other findings from switching to the SS grate. Keep in mind that this grate is NOT a exact copy as the alu. 800 grate (its a improved version). You may have to change your prop pitch just a little bit because it flows more water that has less cavation bubbles in it. Also the wing has a slight different edge on the front wing to improve water flow and hook up. The ride plate angle may need to be adjusted a few thousands of a inch up or down for best speed. Also the two center bars are thinner for better hook up on hole shots and give more water to the prop for less cavation on take off. I worked with Jerry along with others to try to get the best grate to you guys. If you have any problems please post them and I will try to help solve them best as I can. If it had not been for Jerry this grate would have never been produced. Thanks Jerry! Tommy Jordan

I have found that the back section is thinner on the new SS grate compared to the old 800 grate. This is causing a step because the grate is sucking up too far into the pump shoe. At the back of the grate the shoe hangs down about .035 lower than grate. I have fabricated a shim to go under the rear bolts that has fixed that problem but made other problems arise. The front lip of the rear of the grate now hangs too low on each side and that will be ground off. Fortunatly the pump tunnel ramp where the shoe and grate meets are OK.

Is everyone grinding the allen headed bolts down???

Thanks for the grate Jerry, and all who helped with it. I am just curious as to if anyone else is having similar issues? I suppose I could have a screwed up pump shoe....

Should have some testing early next week...

[OutlawGPR]

ss grate

Tommy,

Is there a chance that the thinner bars and sharper wing could cause some to overstuff if they are borderline anyway?

[txgp1300r]

I ran the crap out of mine today, had to put about 20 thou shim on the rear so the pump shoe would not have a step. I still need to shave a little off the front corners as outlawgpr pointed out..overall I am very pleased with the fit. my ski ran the exact rpm that it ran last week ( same barometric pressure) I had my wings cut back on the 800 and the rear edge milled out 1/2 inch for hole shot....new S.S. grate matches my package grate in speed and holeshot, S.S. grate surpasses in hook up....I was supermanning like a mo-fo in 3 inch chop and the nose was steady...the old grate I sometimes had to pull forward to get the nose to settle down. Im glad I bought two grates now after testing.......good job guy's ,I really feel confident that if I hit a 1 pound catfish my grate will not crack. I just hope I never drop it on my big toe, the thing is heavy.

[2fast4u]

SS grate info

Tommy,

Is there a chance that the thinner bars and sharper wing could cause some to overstuff if they are borderline anyway?

I have not seen this happen, it's possible but not likely. The SS grate tends to keep the ski hooked up better to the water. There is less chance the ski will unhook from the water at speed with the SS grate

[2fast4u]

I have found that the back section is thinner on the new SS grate compared to the old 800 grate. This is causing a step because the grate is sucking up too far into the pump shoe. At the back of the grate the shoe hangs down about .035 lower than grate. I have fabricated a shim to go under the rear bolts that has fixed that problem but made other problems arise. The front lip of the rear of the grate now hangs too low on each side and that will be ground off. Fortunatly the pump tunnel ramp where the shoe and grate meets are OK.

Is everyone grinding the allen headed bolts down???

Thanks for the grate Jerry, and all who helped with it. I am just curious as to if anyone else is having similar issues? I suppose I could have a screwed up pump shoe....

Should have some testing early next week...

The SS grate tends to keep the ski hooked up better to the water. For the people that find there grate sticks up .020-.035 higher than the shoe where the back of the grate meets the shoe is to grind a taper (blend) on the "shoe" bottom where the two meet. When you shim the grate down in the back it causes the grate to hook up better but cost you a few tenths mph. For the speed guys I would blend the shoe to match the back of the grate. For the guys who want a better hook up a shim is fine as long as it does not cause a flow step problem on the rear ramp inside where the rear ramp of the grate meets the shoe. You can shim the grate down and blend the rear ramp of the shoe to correct this step also if you want to do it that way. I have found that since alot of these parts ( Yamaha-R&D and others) are only fair castings at best attention to detals is where there is some MPH to be gained if you are willing to spend the time to do the work to match fit all these parts ( Blue Printing ). The guy who buys parts and just bolts them on will never be as fast as the guy who pays attention to details. Tommy

[howestek]

The SS grate tends to keep the ski hooked up better to the water. For the people that find there grate sticks up .020-.035 higher than the shoe where the back of the grate meets the shoe is to grind a taper (blend) on the "shoe" bottom where the two meet.

Do you have any pics to give a better idea? If not, are we talkin' about removing material across the entire bottom flow surface of the shoe, or just enough from the rear grate/shoe mating point to improve flow (seamless transition, so to speak). If this grinding is performed, what potential problem is there by switching from the SS800 grate to the R&D 1200 grate, if any?

BTW: Its interesting that shimming the rear of the grate will increase hookup. I've been shimming the front for that purpose. Learn something new everyday.

Thanks, Steve

[OutlawGPR]

ss grate

This is very good info, thanks for that. I was afraid to do that but I feel better about it now...

[2fast4u]

Do you have any pics to give a better idea? If not, are we talkin' about removing material across the entire bottom flow surface of the shoe, or just enough from the rear grate/shoe mating point to improve flow (seamless transition, so to speak). If this grinding is performed, what potential problem is there by switching from the SS800 grate to the R&D 1200 grate, if any?

BTW: Its interesting that shimming the rear of the grate will increase hookup. I've been shimming the front for that purpose. Learn something new everyday.

Thanks, Steve

Use a 12" steel ruler/ streight edge to check for a nice flat bottom with un obstructed water flow from shoe/grate or hull/shoe rideplate under you ski. Any drag will cost you speed! I would only remove/ blend the front of shoe where the grate meets the shoe back about 3/4 inch a slight taper on this edge should do it. Switching between grates should be fine . If you shim the front of the grate down you increase the hook up of the front wing, If you shim the rear of the grate down you increase hookup on the rear ramp of the grate. Tommy

[Duke]

New grate ran about the same as the prototype we had a few weeks ago. Preprop pressure was close to the same and no change in handling.

We did notice it fitting a little high in the shoe but just knocked the leading edge off the shoe a little and it seemed to be fine. Still running upper 90s all day long on Gameover's ski without any problem.

Thanks Jerry!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[howestek]

tt

[RX951]

The guy who buys parts and just bolts them on will never be as fast as the guy who pays attention to details. Tommy

+1, this can't be said any better. No matter what hobby/sport you are in.

[RX951]